Victron BMV 600 install problem

[rexabbot]

Yes, it should be, but that didn't seem to be what your sketch showed. The sketch implied that the shunt was between the I/C (-) and the bank. And the sketch didn't show the engine ground. Why not complete the sketch showing all the wires?

I apologize in advance but I am not getting it. I must have a deep cycle brain with thick plates

The way I see it, the shunt is between the I/C(-) and the bank in the picture from Maine Sail? Also in the attach diagram?

I will upgrade the sketch to show engine ground. Thanks!

 

[rexabbot]

Yes, it should be, but that didn't seem to be what your sketch showed. The sketch implied that the shunt was between the I/C (-) and the bank. And the sketch didn't show the engine ground. Why not complete the sketch showing all the wires?

Whoops, you just did. Looks right to me.

Here is an update to my drawing. I have 2 negative cables coming from my batteries. 1 for the IC and the other engine ground I assume. It has been pretty much impossible for me to trace the path as it winds around the engine compartment. I have been on top, underneath and on the sides and I still can't find where it goes to the engine. :cussing:

 

[RAD]

If I do that RAD then the charge would not be monitored. Putting it on the other side would be the same thing as putting it directly on the battery?

The attached diagram shows how I have it hooked up now.

The new drawing tells it all and I agree it looks right......now take the charger ground and put it right on the battery to see what the result is.
I suspect all will be fine and that tells me when you have a conversation with tech support at Victron you'll be able to explain the installation and that the shunt is creating the hum and vibrations.
On another note what is the shunt mounted to? maybe thats whats vibrating?

 

[RAD]

Wait stop the presses.....the latest drawing shows the engine ground in front of the shunt! it should be on the other side with the battery charger termination......it doesn't matter where it goes as long as that shunt is in between ALL grounds and the battery

 

[rexabbot]

Wait stop the presses.....the latest drawing shows the engine ground in front of the shunt! it should be on the other side with the battery charger termination......it doesn't matter where it goes as long as that shunt is in between ALL grounds and the battery

Rad thanks for noticing I screwed up again. I was in a hurry to update the drawing. That ground was attached to the battery in that manner originally. But when the shunt is in-line it is attached to the other side.

Thanks for trying but that isn't it. Sorry to mislead you again.

 

[rexabbot]

Rad thanks for noticing I screwed up again. I was in a hurry to update the drawing. That ground was attached to the battery in that manner originally. But when the shunt is in-line it is attached to the other side.

Thanks for trying but that isn't it. Sorry to mislead you again.

Here it is corrected.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Good catch, Rad, looks right now. What your sketch with the picture shows is right, but you don't show the distribution panel ground, for issuance, like the other sketch you made. Every other ground on the boat HAS to go on the load side of the shunt.

What does not connected mean?

What does frame ground mean?

 

[rexabbot]

What does not connected mean?

That I didn't have cable or power connected for battery monitor. I was trying show that the battery was humming soley due to the shunt being put in-line with all others variables out of the loop to isolate the problem.

What does frame ground mean?

There is a ground cable running from my inverter/charger cover to the chassis of my motor home. This is a land yacht not a boat application.

 

[RAD]

This is a land yacht not a boat application.

Stu......he's working on it in a puddle of water

 

[rexabbot]

Stu......he's working on it in a puddle of water

Just add water, makes it's own sauce

 

[Stu Jackson]

There is a ground cable running from my inverter/charger cover to the chassis of my motor home. This is a land yacht not a boat application.

Yes, I understand it's an RV. That's the reason I asked.

It appears to me that this case ground could be a different ground than the DC ground (found on boats at the engine but on RVs AT the engine, too). The Xantrex case ground is AC ground, not DC.

With the shunt, we're talkin' DC and DC ONLY.

Seems to me like he needs a new DC ground from the DC system (like his engine, where the "car" battery and everything else is DC grounded) and not use the AC case ground for that purpose.

He could use car jumper cables to run a wire from his DC system (shunt load side or bus) to his engine, try it out, see if it works.

Maybe that's why it's hummin'.

 

[RAD]

Its hummin cause it don't know the words (electrician's joke)

 

[Ron20324]

Run a case ground only to someplace on the shore power AC wiring ground.

 

[Maine Sail]

Some thoughts.

#1 You should NEVER be able to have the shore power AND inverter on (120V output) at the same time, UNLESS the inverters 120V output is NOT connected to the RV's AC system.

#2 A shunt is nothing more than a ground buss with a KNOWN mV drop across it. The scale is 0 - 50 mV. At 500A the voltage drop will be 50mV (0.05V drop @ 500A) at 0 amps it will be a 0 mV drop. The shunt will not change anything and by its nature can't. Consider it a very well calculated and precise piece of wire with a known voltage drop....

It sounds like you have a dead short in the system. Using all the same color wire can lead to issues like this...

If you want the shunt to properly read the alternator and starter loads then the engien ground needs to be on the load side of the shunt as well..

We really need an accurate drawing of ALL the wires in the system that touch the batteries, inverter, chassis, alternator, DC system and AC system.

 

[rexabbot]

Some thoughts.

#1 You should NEVER be able to have the shore power AND inverter on (120V output) at the same time, UNLESS the inverters 120V output is NOT connected to the RV's AC system.

#2 A shunt is nothing more than a ground buss with a KNOWN mV drop across it. The scale is 0 - 50 mV. At 500A the voltage drop will be 50mV (0.05V drop @ 500A) at 0 amps it will be a 0 mV drop. The shunt will not change anything and by its nature can't. Consider it a very well calculated and precise piece of wire with a known voltage drop....

It sounds like you have a dead short in the system. Using all the same color wire can lead to issues like this...

If you want the shunt to properly read the alternator and starter loads then the engien ground needs to be on the load side of the shunt as well..

We really need an accurate drawing of ALL the wires in the system that touch the batteries, inverter, chassis, alternator, DC system and AC system.

Thanks for comments Maine Sail!

I miss spoke using inverter instead of charger. I have a combined inverter charger that I just refer to as inverter.

I agree the shunt should not Change anything if wired properly.

That is why I tested having nothing going to the batteries other the leads from the charger. Pos. to battery bank and negative to load side of shunt. Then jumper from battery side of the shunt to the negative on the battery bank. When I take the shunt out of line- no problem. Put shunt in-line the humming starts.

Thanks

 

[rexabbot]

***Final Update****
I had Fischer Panda, the company I purchased the Victron from, send me a new shunt. I returned the old one for testing.
I never learned why the old one didn't work, but the new one works perfectly.
After 2 hours of sliding on back under my motor home I got the cable ran inside to the
mounting area and it is working just as it should.
Thank you for all your thoughts on the subject.
Just chalk it up to a failed product?????