Upgrading to a H27

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L and W

I have made an offer on a 1984 H27. We currently own a '79 H25, and we love it, but we are excited about moving up to a larger boat. After spending all day on board the H27, I have a few questions: 1. The diesel engine is a Westerbeke 2-cylinder (started right up after sitting for a year!). The Hunter owner's manual for the H27 talks about a Yanmar. Did Hunter change to a Westerbeke, or is likely that the Westerbeke was installed later? Any details or suggestions about this engine would be appreciated. 2. There is a whale gusher hand pump located under the V berth on the starboard side. The pump seems to be connected to the waste holding tank. What is the purpose of the pump (evacuate waste from the head into the holding tank, or evacuate the waste from the holding tank out the deck fitting?) 3. Okay, this will be the first boat I've owned with a diesel engine, so this may be a really stupid question - there is a hose and valve leading from the engine to the bottom of the hull. What is this, and should the valve be normally open or normally closed? I'm assuming that this is the fresh water intake for engine cooling water? 4. The head flush plunger has a broken knob. We are thinking of replacing the entire head. The head is the original brand mentioned in the owner's manual. Does anyone know of an easy replacement? Also, any instructions regarding the operation of the head valves (is there a gate valve to control whether the waste flushes directly out or into the waste tank?) would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for any suggestions/advice!
 
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Ed Schenck

"New" Cherubini 27.

You will gets lots of help but here are a couple of things: 1) Engine is a change I think. I believe all H27s were built with the Yanmar. 2) The pump is for holding tank to overboard. My H37C on Lake Erie only had the bolts, no pump. And the pumpout thru-hull is capped off. 3) You should find that hose connected to a valve that should be open ONLY while motoring. The other end of the hose should go to a raw water filter. And if it is the original gate-valve(looks like a faucet handle) you should replace with a seacock at first haulout. 4) My boat had a large Y-valve that directed the holding tank, either to the whale pump or to the deck fitting. All of that was removed in the Great Lakes. So it is toilet to tank and tank to deck fitting. I replaced my head with a Raritan Cricket. The advantages are price, simplicity, and water savings. By not using so much water to flush we save trips to the pumpout. It requires much less maintenance because of the design of the pump. But be sure to use their template before you decide. It has a different footprint from most models.
 
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David Foster

Ed scores 100%!

The only comment I would add is that the 2 cylinder Westerbeke is certainly the right size for you boat - an upgrade that cost some owner $5 to $6 thousand. Most of us make do on the 8 hp one-lung Yanmar. It's OK, but forget going over 5 knots, or bucking big winds or waves. (I spent over an hour going 2 miles into a 20-30 knot headwind when entering Erie earlier this summer.) Congratulations - you have an offer on a great cruising design that has lasted vey well through the years. You did include a survey in the offer, right? Because any boat as old as ours can have serious problems that a surveyeor can find for you to have the seller correct, or adjust the price for you to fix. Anyway... Good luck, David Lady Lillie '77 h27
 
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Chuck Petty

Hold on, not 100%

It is my understanding that the Westerbeke was used by Hunter for some H27's at the end... Mine is an '84, has a Westerbeke, and I was told that it is what came with the boat from the factory. Also, I understand that they used some Renaults in the beginning.... Chuck S/V Following Sea
 
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Mike Andersen

Renault - 1980

Only one year - 1980 Hunter used Renault. Not easy to find parts but there are some links in the archives. Right now my Renault loses power after about 15 minutes. Then I shift it into neutral and she's good again. Well off to the mechanic. I am thinking of upgrading to a higher horse power Yanmar.
 
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David Foster

Never heard of a factory 2 cylinder diesel, though

Yanmar and Renault, are the most common in that order. I don't know about the Westerbeke, but it was probably a one lunger if they did ship one. Anyway, a two cylinder Westerbeke is a big plus, whoever installed it. David Lady Lillie
 
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L and W

More info

Apparently, Ed scores at least 90%. I was able to confirm the plumbing on the waste tank. It does have a tee fitting that splits the output either to the thru-hull or to the deck pump-out fitting. By the way, Ed, ALL the gate valves on ALL the thru-hulls are the garden-faucet type. I guess I'll need to replace the lot at next haulout. I will look into the Cricket head and check the bolt patterns. I found a 1980 H27 on our lake that has a Renault diesel. It runs like garbage. I believe that mine is a Westerbeke W10-Two (10 HP, 2-cylinder, now superceded by the 11A One. I guess Hunter installed Yanmars, Renaults and Westerbekes. I can't find a model number on the engine tag, but I count two fuel injectors, so... Maybe I've got a good one! Thanks, everyone for the great input! I'll keep you updated as to the progress. Anybody looking for a super-clean H25??
 
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Jim Rice

Better Head

Sealand 911-M28 Marine Traveler It uses your pressure water system. The flusher is a ball value--No. 1 can be flushed w/o any additional water (only in an emergency!). It fits tightly but well. You get a 9-gal. holding tank. You also get the ability to add a deck pumpout. And, most importantly, guests learn how to use it quickly.
 
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress

SeaLand 911M28 is an excellent system...but--

If the boat aleady has a holding tank, and if the holding tank is plastic, not aluminum, replacing the toilet and tank with the SeaLand 911M28 prob'ly wouldn't make a lot sense, especially since the boat is in fresh water, when all you really need is a new toilet. My choice would be the Raritan PHC. The Whale Gusher was used to dump the tank overboard, which you cannot legally do--or flush the toilet directly overboard--in the Great Lakes or in any other US or Canadian waters...only at sea at least 3 miles from the nearest point on the whole North American coastline. So you might as well just remove it, along with any other plumbing that connects the toilet to a thru-hull or the tank to anything but the deck pumpout fitting, if you don't want to risk a major fine. See link below for useful information about how to install, operate and maintain marine toilets and holding tanks.
 
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