Uninstalling a Weems and Plath AutoMAC alternator control

C

CMF Hunter 27

.
Nov 5, 2019
53
Hunter 27 Jones Creek
The boat I purchased in the fall of 2019 is a 1979 hunter 27 that unknown to me was previously flooded by freshwater. The previous owner neglected checking on the boat when it was dry docked. Automac alternator control was submerged. The engine still runs and I believe the batteries are still charging I would like to remove it. I don't think the unit actually works anymore and the wiring is suspect. Hoping someone can provide guidance to me on removing and just using the existing alternator and a two battery system with a 1,2 and both battery switch. I am following up with a current wiring diagram in a bit and pics.
thank you!
 
Rich Stidger

Rich Stidger

.
Feb 10, 2004
4,142
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
I had one of those in my previous sailboat. Here is a link I found that may help you uninstall it. As I remember it was just a semi dumb rheostat that controlled the field current and could bump up the charging voltage. I also think that it would time-out or reduce the elevated charging when some parameter was met.

Uninstalling a Weems and Plath AutoMAC alternator control Help! - Cruisers & Sailing Forums

I have a Weems and Plath AutoMAC alternator control installed on my boat and I would like to remove it and hook up the alternator the way it was originally done (bypassing this controller). I dont
www.cruisersforum.com
 
Maine Sail

Maine Sail

.
Feb 6, 1998
11,709
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
After you remove it you’ll need an external regulator such as a Wakespeed WS100 or a Balmar ARS-5.. Also, I’d suggest you replace the diode isolator with a Blue Sea ACR, or go old school, and charge the second bank manually...
 
  • Like
Likes: CMF Hunter 27
C

CMF Hunter 27

.
Nov 5, 2019
53
Hunter 27 Jones Creek
To add to the complexity of this there is also a heart interface link 200 installed not currently displaying any signs of life. I have yet to redo the terminals on the link 200 which will help. The original battery switch was submerged and I replaced that with the blue seas 1, 2, both off switch pictured. Not sure what the grey box is but it was above the flood line. only hooked up to one battery currently. it also has and additional wire assuming it should be hooked to the other battery as well as another few wires. The battery charger was in a box and never hooked up and above the flood line. I think some of these systems are duplicative but not really sure going to buy a book today on electric for boats
 

Attachments

Rich Stidger

Rich Stidger

.
Feb 10, 2004
4,142
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
CMF Hunter 27 said:
Not sure what the grey box is but it was above the flood line. only hooked up to one battery currently. it also has and additional wire assuming it should be hooked to the other battery as well as another few wires. The battery charger was in a box and never hooked up and above the flood line. I think some of these systems are duplicative but not really sure going to buy a book today on electric for boats
Click to expand
The grey box is a Guest battery charger. I had one that was OEM and it had two outputs. A 30A output for the house bank and a 5A output for the starting battery. Years ago the 5A output died and last year the 30A output went south. Personally I am not impressed with Guest chargers because this one of mine was the third one my dealer installed under warrantee. I think the ProSport 12 is another charger, but I know nothing about it's specs.
 
  • Like
Likes: CMF Hunter 27
C

CMF Hunter 27

.
Nov 5, 2019
53
Hunter 27 Jones Creek
Maine Sail said:
After you remove it you’ll need an external regulator such as a Wakespeed WS100 or a Balmar ARS-5.. Also, I’d suggest you replace the diode isolator with a Blue Sea ACR, or go old school, and charge the second bank manually...
Click to expand
 
C

CMF Hunter 27

.
Nov 5, 2019
53
Hunter 27 Jones Creek
my long winded post didn't come through sometimes I wish I still had a laptop. Anyway I put off working on on electrical and focused on painting waxing and repairing port lights with the good weather this weekend. Diving back in to the alternator now I do have a few more questions I read everyone's suggestions and links and planning on picking up the Blue seas acr to replace the isolator diode. What does the ws-100, or balmer acr-5 regulator control do that my internal regulator already doesn't? Is it just for efficient? I attached a few pics about questions on the wiring. in the schematic provided the red with black stripe goes from the control guage to the automac where should I hook this up now? in schematic it says accessories switched is this not needed now? I did remove the automac this weekend. The red positive was running from alternator to automac and then the isolator diode. I now connected directly from alternator to diode. I eliminated the black (-) wire to automac and left other wire grounded from alternator to engine block. The white and red wire I Left as is. What is was the 4th wire coming out of the alternator vent? it goes from alternator to the 4amp fuse on the automac. Does alternator need to be fused another way?

Appreciate everyone fielding my questions and assisting me to get this 40 year old boat off the hard I have viewed all links and webpages provided and read up on products mentioned. This is an amazing forum!
 
C

CMF Hunter 27

.
Nov 5, 2019
53
Hunter 27 Jones Creek
Maine Sail said:
After you remove it you’ll need an external regulator such as a Wakespeed WS100 or a Balmar ARS-5.. Also, I’d suggest you replace the diode isolator with a Blue Sea ACR, or go old school, and charge the second bank manually...
Click to expand
20200516_115135.jpg
 
C

CMF Hunter 27

.
Nov 5, 2019
53
Hunter 27 Jones Creek
Maine Sail said:
After you remove it you’ll need an external regulator such as a Wakespeed WS100 or a Balmar ARS-5.. Also, I’d suggest you replace the diode isolator with a Blue Sea ACR, or go old school, and charge the second bank manually...
Click to expand
my alternator states on the back that it has internal regulator can I use the ws 100 with it?
 
C

CMF Hunter 27

.
Nov 5, 2019
53
Hunter 27 Jones Creek
Circling this tree again. I believe I now have a type N internal regulator based on pictures above and the writing on alternator above stating " IG regulator built in" and based on the way the alternator was hooked up to the automac. So the recommendation of the external regulator control is no longer recommended I guess. Hoping someone can chime in on the wire red wire coming out of the vent of the above picture. Is that the alternator field wire? If so where should I hook that up to now?

I currently have a battery isolator still hooked up but bought an blue seas si acr and had already had a newly battery 1, 2, both off switch that I previously installed. Right now the alternator is connected to the isolator and then also grounded to the engine as well as connected to a white wire with a red stripe that goes to the control panel. I want to remove the old diode isolator and replace with blue seas si acr. Can I continue to use my new current battery switch 1,2, both and off switch, with the Blues Seas SI ACR?
 
C

CMF Hunter 27

.
Nov 5, 2019
53
Hunter 27 Jones Creek
this is the current setup.
Type N hitachi Alternator
starter
2 batteries one starting and 1 deep cell (house)
2 shunts
1 negative bus
1 positive bus
1 Isolator diode however I purchased new blue seas acr (yet to be installed)
battery switch 1,2, both & off
Battery charger
2 DC Panels
1 Ac panel

let me see if I can get this right. Currently I have a positive wire going from type N Alternator to the isolator diode. I plan on replacing with blue seas SI ACR. I will now connect the alternator wire to the deep cycle battery (house)? Keep the alternator grounded to the engine as well as having the white with red stripe wire continue to the control guage panel. What about the red wire that is coming out of the alternator vent that used to be hooked to the automac's 4 amp fuse? Should I remove the alternator cover and remove the wire? Should it be hooked up to anything else? I also had another wire that was hooked to automat black with red stripe that went to control panel as well. I am inclined to hook up red wire that is coming out of vent to black and red striped wire that goes to the control guages. However dont want to fry anything.

Starter is connected to the positive bus, negative wire grounded to the engine. A white wire goes from starter cylinoid to control panel guages assuming ignition.

I guess with my current alternator setup being that it is internally regulated how do I hook up the blue seas acr with my current battery switch. From everything I have read hook up alternator wire to largest battery. On the ACR directions I see A goes to battery 1 and is fused b goes to battery 2 is fused. Ground would go to negative bus.

Working on my schematic hope to post soon.
 
Maine Sail

Maine Sail

.
Feb 6, 1998
11,709
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
CMF Hunter 27 said:
my alternator states on the back that it has internal regulator can I use the ws 100 with it?
Click to expand
External regulators are for externally regulated alternators only. If your alternator is not externally regulated than you'll need to buy an ER alt or have yours converted. You already have a red wire poking out the back but we have no way to know what this is for. It was also poked through the case in a very unprofessional manner and we have seen conversions like this short to the case and fry regulators and in one case,smolder the wire and nearly cause a fire..

This article deals with the Hitachi internally regulated alternators: https://marinehowto.com/automotive-alternators-vs-deep-cycle-batteries/
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Top Bottom