Trouble starting my Atomic M25 Diesel

[dLj]

As another position on this - I spent many years with just a DVM, actually began with an analog volt meter before DVM's existed, to an extent i agree. That's all you really need.

However I recently picked up a Fluke 323 with AC/DC amp clamp off Amazon for a pretty good price. I was surprised how much nicer trouble shooting was being able to measure DC amps. Especially when adding in solar panels and having to trouble shoot wiring.

Do I really need the DC amp meter? Probably not, but I've found it far more useful than I'd originally expected. So it depends on how involved you decide to get with working on your own systems and what systems you decide to put in.

dj

 

[AndyBC]

I have a 98 Catalina 34 with the Universal M35B engine, so different than yours. I engage the glow plugs for 5-10 seconds (depending on how cold it is out) while pressing the start button at the same time, per the instructions in the M35B manual. My engine always fires up within 1 second. After I turn off the engine and sail for a few hours, the engine still starts up immediately without having to engage the glow plugs. My lead acid batteries usually read around 12.7V at rest, when disconnected from shore power.

 

[acudavid]

Thanks to all for the ideas. This forum is AWESOME!

The short version is my batteries were not charged correctly.

With properly charged batteries, my motor now starts “like its hair is on fire” (Thanks FastOlson) I am reducing glow plug time and have much more confidence in my restart out at sea. Here is where the user error kicks in: It has been at least three months since I checked the alternator. Since it was rebuilt a year ago, the alternator has consistently read 14.1 V. But now it reads exactly what the batteries read, so it is not charging. This was one problem.

The second problem is that the onboard charger does not work correctly. It lights up and its fan makes noise, but it stops charging before the batteries are fully charged. They may read up to 12.8V, but they won’t hold a charge properly. So, I unplugged the onboard charger and connected a $20 Viking 4a charger purchased from Harbor Freight, which went into “repair mode” and two days later, the batteries were properly charged. The portable Viking brings them to 13.1 or higher. I don’t have a meter to measure the amps. I suspect the portable charger increases both the volts and the cranking amps. There is no comparison in the cranking speed. Even with the batteries disconnected for 3 days, the readings are either 12.9 or 13.0 V; Now it is very easy to start the motor.

I had brought up the rpm’s because I thought it may have been tied to the difficult-starting issue. Since the boat cruises at 5kts at 80% throttle, I am going to let it be. Most likely compression is lost in the lower unit, which was not rebuilt when we rebuilt the top. Since the motor does not visibly smoke, and the oil level doesn’t seem to drop between oil changes (75 hours) I’m going to focus my energy on my solar bimini and getting some modern electronics installed

My thoughts on the alternator are that I should have it rebuilt again, or maybe replace it with one made in China? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

Twodzusfittings compression lever is close

Stu Jackson Thanks for the diesel engines and electrical system links. I will read them when I am able

jssailem - obviously my batteries were not being charged while motoring!

Tally Ho - Bought Klein MM325 and Viking 4a charger

When my retirement kicks in early next year, I will have more time to read this forum, learn some stuff, and maybe be able to help another sailor with experiences I have had.