I'm replacing the instruments (wind, depth and speed) on my '87 30tr. The New instrument instructions say to install the transducers forward of the keel as close to the centerline as possible. All of the old transducers are under the 1/4 berth?! Was the original installer just lazy or is this common among Cat 30's? Should I keep the old location? If yours are installed forward of the keel can you tell me how they are accessed? Thanks!
- Status
Probably not worth changing
I wouldn't go to the time and effort of changing the location unless you need to do major re-work of the through hull fittings, etc. As I understand it, the purpose of installing forward of the keel on the centerline has to do with keeping the transducers in the water at all times, in an area of smooth water flow, and, for depth, measuring the depth before your keel gets there (at best this gives you a split second early warning). The way C-30s are built, once you get forward of the keel, the hull narrows and thickens near the centerline, which makes installation difficult at best. Mine are mounted to the port side of the engine freshwater intake just forward of the galley and seem to work fine.
I wouldn't go to the time and effort of changing the location unless you need to do major re-work of the through hull fittings, etc. As I understand it, the purpose of installing forward of the keel on the centerline has to do with keeping the transducers in the water at all times, in an area of smooth water flow, and, for depth, measuring the depth before your keel gets there (at best this gives you a split second early warning). The way C-30s are built, once you get forward of the keel, the hull narrows and thickens near the centerline, which makes installation difficult at best. Mine are mounted to the port side of the engine freshwater intake just forward of the galley and seem to work fine.
Ducers
Richard - I cannot help you with through hulls - but I would urge you to look at "shoot through hull" transducers. I recently installed one in mine and it works beautifully. Teh nicest thing is that there is no need for a haul-out, and no need for yet another hole in the old hull. I installed one recently in about an hour. Of course, if they don't make one for your type of depthfinder, then the point is moot. Anyway - check into this option.
Richard - I cannot help you with through hulls - but I would urge you to look at "shoot through hull" transducers. I recently installed one in mine and it works beautifully. Teh nicest thing is that there is no need for a haul-out, and no need for yet another hole in the old hull. I installed one recently in about an hour. Of course, if they don't make one for your type of depthfinder, then the point is moot. Anyway - check into this option.
Mounting Transducers What glue
What does one use to attach a shoot thru transducer to the hull? The spec says to use epoxy to glue it to the hull. I heard someone suggest using a material like a sealent so if the transducer needed to be moved it could.
What does one use to attach a shoot thru transducer to the hull? The spec says to use epoxy to glue it to the hull. I heard someone suggest using a material like a sealent so if the transducer needed to be moved it could.
Epoxy
Walt - The owner's manual instructions on my Lowrance transducer stated that epoxy was the only material that should be used to affix the transducer. The theory is that the transducer should actually become part of the hull, sending sonar through it and also receiving the bounce-back through it. I used the epoxy provided with the kit. It was siver-grey in color - a two part, 10 min quick set type. The placement of the transducer is the most important part of the installation, and it takes a little time. There is a method to it. Good news is that the transducer only costs about 40 bucks - so if you ever needed to relocate it, you could just buy a new one. If you find the right place to mount it though, you shouldn't ever need to move it. Rob
Walt - The owner's manual instructions on my Lowrance transducer stated that epoxy was the only material that should be used to affix the transducer. The theory is that the transducer should actually become part of the hull, sending sonar through it and also receiving the bounce-back through it. I used the epoxy provided with the kit. It was siver-grey in color - a two part, 10 min quick set type. The placement of the transducer is the most important part of the installation, and it takes a little time. There is a method to it. Good news is that the transducer only costs about 40 bucks - so if you ever needed to relocate it, you could just buy a new one. If you find the right place to mount it though, you shouldn't ever need to move it. Rob
Thru Hull Transducer Mounting
A hard Epoxy does make sense. I have not mounted mine yet. I would like to explore with the location and mostly the orentation (clocking) of the transducer, trying to get the best for my boat. I would like to "tempararly" mount it for a while and when I find the best place Epoxy it down. I heard one person say to use a baggie of water use to interface with the hull. Another at the marina store says to use a sealent instead of a glue. Everyone said no air. I was wondering if anyone else has gone through this experiment.
A hard Epoxy does make sense. I have not mounted mine yet. I would like to explore with the location and mostly the orentation (clocking) of the transducer, trying to get the best for my boat. I would like to "tempararly" mount it for a while and when I find the best place Epoxy it down. I heard one person say to use a baggie of water use to interface with the hull. Another at the marina store says to use a sealent instead of a glue. Everyone said no air. I was wondering if anyone else has gone through this experiment.
Ducer Mounting
Walter - Best thing to do is to take the ducer, connect it to your display and power the system. Dip the ducer in water and then depress it against the hull at the approximate mounting location. Press it hard against the hull, too. Make sure the mounting location is also moist. Move the ducer around until you get a good picture on your depthfinder/fishfinder. In doing this, you will find a good area on the hull that is free of airbubbles in the layup. Once you have a solid location, mark it and then make a dam (quarter-inch bead or larger) of RTV/Silicone ontop of your marking. Allow this to dry. Then mix the epoxy, smear some smoothly across the face of the transducer, and pour the rest slowly into the RTV dam. It should be like filling a mini-swimming pool with epoxy. Be sure not to get any airbubbles in the epoxy (read
our slowly). The, just press the ducer into the epoxy, twisting slowly, and hold pressure on it for about 10 minutes. You'd be surprised how easy it is, and how well it works! If you need further or more specific info - feel free to e-mail me. Best of luck - Rob
Walter - Best thing to do is to take the ducer, connect it to your display and power the system. Dip the ducer in water and then depress it against the hull at the approximate mounting location. Press it hard against the hull, too. Make sure the mounting location is also moist. Move the ducer around until you get a good picture on your depthfinder/fishfinder. In doing this, you will find a good area on the hull that is free of airbubbles in the layup. Once you have a solid location, mark it and then make a dam (quarter-inch bead or larger) of RTV/Silicone ontop of your marking. Allow this to dry. Then mix the epoxy, smear some smoothly across the face of the transducer, and pour the rest slowly into the RTV dam. It should be like filling a mini-swimming pool with epoxy. Be sure not to get any airbubbles in the epoxy (read
our slowly). The, just press the ducer into the epoxy, twisting slowly, and hold pressure on it for about 10 minutes. You'd be surprised how easy it is, and how well it works! If you need further or more specific info - feel free to e-mail me. Best of luck - RobTransducer Thru Hull Location
Thank you. That does sound like another suggestion using a baggie of water. Putting the water bag between the ducer and the hull pushing it against the hull. I am going to try that. But I need to get my 12 volt system serviced first. I have been following that thread also. Thanks
Thank you. That does sound like another suggestion using a baggie of water. Putting the water bag between the ducer and the hull pushing it against the hull. I am going to try that. But I need to get my 12 volt system serviced first. I have been following that thread also. Thanks
Believe it or not!
Believe it or not, toilet bowl wax (from the wax ring used to mount toilets) works fine. A friend told me about this and I used it as a temporary fix that's been in place for over three years now. I always intended to do a permanent mount but why fix it if it ain't broke?
Believe it or not, toilet bowl wax (from the wax ring used to mount toilets) works fine. A friend told me about this and I used it as a temporary fix that's been in place for over three years now. I always intended to do a permanent mount but why fix it if it ain't broke?
How Cool!
Toilet bowl wax! Whooda thunk it? I didn't even know there was such a thing! Anyway, I'll certainly try it next time before I permanently mount one. Further proof that there is no end nor limit to what you can find on this site....
Toilet bowl wax! Whooda thunk it? I didn't even know there was such a thing! Anyway, I'll certainly try it next time before I permanently mount one. Further proof that there is no end nor limit to what you can find on this site....
another idea
I mounted mine with a 4” ABS clean-out fitting. I cut the fitting so I could mount in vertically and match the curve of the hull. This was epoxied to the hull. The clean out is filled with mineral oil and the transducer was mounted in the cap. It has worked great for five years. Hayden Watson S/V Papillon 1988 C30 tr/bs Spokane, WA
I mounted mine with a 4” ABS clean-out fitting. I cut the fitting so I could mount in vertically and match the curve of the hull. This was epoxied to the hull. The clean out is filled with mineral oil and the transducer was mounted in the cap. It has worked great for five years. Hayden Watson S/V Papillon 1988 C30 tr/bs Spokane, WA
- Status