Jumped right in over my head, but I'm still close to shore. New to it all. Picked up a C&C25, haven't seen in person yet. Getting ready to get it. If I can attach pics, you will see the forward jacks are on the side of boat. Is this normal, or should the boat be a bit more forward on the trailer? Thanks much in advance for any replies.
Trailering load
- Thread starter Ekvh
- Start date
Does the previous owner have anything to say?
http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=611
Says the boat displaces 4300 pounds, so there should be about 10-15% of that on the tongue for safe trailering.
When you do see the boat in person, lift up on the tongue.
Do you get a hernia?
PO only used it to drop in the lake. I need to travel about 100 miles. Checking tongue weight is a good suggestion. I'll do that. I am am just questioning the placement of the forward jack pads as they are supporting side-to-side movement. I have searched and read here that the boats are designed to be mostly on the keel for travel and that jacks only keep it from rolling off. Most other pics I have seen have the pads more under the boat than on the side. Hoping someone who moves or has moved this particular boat can post, but all suggestions welcome.
10% of 4300 is 430 lbs. That will be hernia material. I have two artificial hips, one recently, so I will want less than that, I think. It has a jack. Pulling with a half ton, so 500 lbs shouldn't be too bad. I plan on taking back roads and keeping speeds pretty low.
Thanks for that. I saw the lights and fender issues, but not the forward post, which comes as a big Duh/uh, I guess. I have a welder and, occasionally, ambition. That forward post needs to be set properly for the load doesn't it? I hope I didn't bite off too much. Bought on a last second EBay look. $720 will easily be a grand getting it home.
Thinking out loud... Could the forward stop be attached to the keel near the hull?
Thinking out loud... Could the forward stop be attached to the keel near the hull?
Have a look at the wordpress page listed below. There are a few pictures of trailer modifications to make it towable and safe, from what it started as.
Towing that trailer without brakes is dangerous. Not so much that you'll do something, it's that subcompact that darts out and stops. You won't be able to. Consider that the boay weighs more than a 1/2 ton. A truck that size doesn't have the stopping power to control all that, I have a 1 ton diesel and I can tell you that a 1 ton doesn't either. All a keel stop is going to bring to the party is a better chance the boat will stay attached, and it's certainly better than nothing. IF the boat starts to move on the trailer, something has to stop it, and straps won't accomplish that task. Currently the forward posts will help prevent it moving, if it's strapped down at the posts, the strap will prevent it from moving up, and help prevent it from moving forward.
Even on backroads, a couple of buddies in "pilot" cars could assist in ensuring that you have free space in front of you.
Towing that trailer without brakes is dangerous. Not so much that you'll do something, it's that subcompact that darts out and stops. You won't be able to. Consider that the boay weighs more than a 1/2 ton. A truck that size doesn't have the stopping power to control all that, I have a 1 ton diesel and I can tell you that a 1 ton doesn't either. All a keel stop is going to bring to the party is a better chance the boat will stay attached, and it's certainly better than nothing. IF the boat starts to move on the trailer, something has to stop it, and straps won't accomplish that task. Currently the forward posts will help prevent it moving, if it's strapped down at the posts, the strap will prevent it from moving up, and help prevent it from moving forward.
Even on backroads, a couple of buddies in "pilot" cars could assist in ensuring that you have free space in front of you.
Thanks again. I will use the strap and fashion some sort of keel stop. Maybe even a strap or support to tie the two front posts together to keep them from spreading. I am thinking that with the roads I am taking I can keep speeds below 35 mph and should be able to foresee sudden stops. I won't go through any towns with any sizable populations, until I get home. This trailer doesn't look like it is going to be capable of longer hauls even with brakes. The wheels seem to canted quite a bit and probably will wear quickly---- judging by the looks anyways. Not sure yet, but probably no adjustment for that. My guess is just utility grade axles, good for moving in and out of a loading ramp area. For me that seems like a pain in the butt and would rather keep it in the water if I am going to sail it.
Owner stated it was in the water last year. He merely launched it and pulled out each time he sailed. I will look it over first. I bought a set of fenders and a set of lights today. Hope I don't have to buy rims and tires to boot.
Rims are probably OK, Tires are probably rotten judging even by the low res pictures and If it was me I'd want a spare, at least one and preferably 2.
Ok... I have quite a bit of experience towing a 27 ft Bristol hundreds of miles. So far, safely. I think you got a fantastic deal. Around here, you couldn't have bought the trailer for what you have paid. But, it is not "road" ready. yes, it needs something to keep it from moving forward. Also, as mentioned, lights. Then, an adequate tow vehicle. ...... a heavy duty 3/4 ton truck or more. If you don't have one, go rent from uhaul or similar. Next, make sure you have several heavy nylon straps (3 inch) with tensioners to tie the boat to the trailer. Then, have two more to tie the front and back support pads horizontally together. (like boat stands are set up with chain.... but use straps.... nicer to your boat than chain) Make sure you have safety triangles and maybe even highway flares to set out if things go bad.
Now, the most important part..... Find a route where you can go and never exceed 35 MPH. Also, make sure there are no low overpasses or bridges with low clearance. Have someone follow you with cell phones on speed dial so as to communicate any issues that they may see. Be ready to pull off to let traffic by if cars star to stack up behind you. It's only a hundred miles. Think of it like you are putting the boat in the lake 10 times. Remember..... take it slow!!!!! Take it slow!!!! And.... good luck!!!
Now, the most important part..... Find a route where you can go and never exceed 35 MPH. Also, make sure there are no low overpasses or bridges with low clearance. Have someone follow you with cell phones on speed dial so as to communicate any issues that they may see. Be ready to pull off to let traffic by if cars star to stack up behind you. It's only a hundred miles. Think of it like you are putting the boat in the lake 10 times. Remember..... take it slow!!!!! Take it slow!!!! And.... good luck!!!
a couple more thoughts.....
Don't carry the mast where it's at now. Make sure it's well supported and tied in well.
Check the tires for dry rot. Trailer tires for this load range are spendy. But if you keep the speed down, you might be able to get it home.
Anticipate way in advance any need to stop. Drive like it's snowy and slick. Any kind of steep down hills, slow down in advance.
If you have no experience pulling a trailer, you need to understand that you can not make tight turns. Make sure you have mirrors to be able to see both sides of the trailer.
Make sure you know what size ball your trailer requires. Make sure the tow vehicle has a trailer hitch that is rated for the total weight of the boat and trailer.
Don't carry the mast where it's at now. Make sure it's well supported and tied in well.
Check the tires for dry rot. Trailer tires for this load range are spendy. But if you keep the speed down, you might be able to get it home.
Anticipate way in advance any need to stop. Drive like it's snowy and slick. Any kind of steep down hills, slow down in advance.
If you have no experience pulling a trailer, you need to understand that you can not make tight turns. Make sure you have mirrors to be able to see both sides of the trailer.
Make sure you know what size ball your trailer requires. Make sure the tow vehicle has a trailer hitch that is rated for the total weight of the boat and trailer.
As an alternative to using a cell phone to communicate with an escort vehicle you might consider a pair of FRS radios.
Thinking with my rookie mind, a strap from the front jacks around the bow will help keep it from moving around, but I am thinking the boat was not designed for much downward force there. I am thinking to snug it up firm, but not too firm. I have some 6" wide strap rated 20k lbs. I might use that around the keel.
Besides the good advice so far, couple of additional suggestions: IF tires are not dry rotted, air up to max rated psi. I would jack up each wheel and try to wiggle to see if there is bearing play and check wheel bearing grease. After 5-10 miles, pull over and check wheel bearing temp. If you can keep your hand wrapped around hub, it is ok. If not, too hot and probably going to fail.
A few weeks ago I was towing 4500 lbs with a 2015 Tundra and the electric trailer brakes quit working, as I exited the freeway. Amazing how little effect the truck brakes have at 60mph. Fortunately, the ramp was empty and downshifting got the speed down. I had to tow that load another 70 miles with no trailer brakes (middle of nowhere) and using the transmission, truck brakes and keeping the speed under 40 on two lane roads, it was manageable, but there was very little traffic. Don't underestimate how hard it is to stop a loaded trailer with no brakes. I think you will be ok if you follow the earlier suggestions, too. Let us know how it goes.
A few weeks ago I was towing 4500 lbs with a 2015 Tundra and the electric trailer brakes quit working, as I exited the freeway. Amazing how little effect the truck brakes have at 60mph. Fortunately, the ramp was empty and downshifting got the speed down. I had to tow that load another 70 miles with no trailer brakes (middle of nowhere) and using the transmission, truck brakes and keeping the speed under 40 on two lane roads, it was manageable, but there was very little traffic. Don't underestimate how hard it is to stop a loaded trailer with no brakes. I think you will be ok if you follow the earlier suggestions, too. Let us know how it goes.
