I have a hunter 23.5 which I purchased last year. The boat loads very easily on the trailer except that the front roller contacts the bow very high when loading, forcing me to use the winch to pull it up and over to its final resting position. This appears to be causing some damage to the bow and I would like to know if anyone else has had the same problem. I have noticed that the newer hunter trailers have this forward roller farther back on the trailer than mine is positioned. I suspect that I could change the bunk angle or add another roller to lessen the impact that this has on my bow, but I'm not sure which would be better. Other sailors have also suggested that I might try an extension so that I can put the trailer out in deeper water as the boat rides well once its on the trailer. Any suggestions?
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What roller?
The trailer for my 1995 H23.5 has no roller. Just the two curved carpeted bunks and the rubber bow stopper up high near the winch. If we knew the year of your trailer we could deduce whether Hunter decided the roller was a good or bad idea. EG if your trailer is newer then perhaps they thought it a good odea to add the roller, and vice-versa. Perhaps Crazy Dave knows the actual history of this and can save us guessing. It sounds like with the bow on the roller, the hull is lifted up off the forward part of the bunks a little? Sounds odd to me.
The trailer for my 1995 H23.5 has no roller. Just the two curved carpeted bunks and the rubber bow stopper up high near the winch. If we knew the year of your trailer we could deduce whether Hunter decided the roller was a good or bad idea. EG if your trailer is newer then perhaps they thought it a good odea to add the roller, and vice-versa. Perhaps Crazy Dave knows the actual history of this and can save us guessing. It sounds like with the bow on the roller, the hull is lifted up off the forward part of the bunks a little? Sounds odd to me.
Two Rollers
The trailer for my '93 23.5 has two rollers. The one mounted forward is fairly high like you suggest. The one just in front of the bunks guides the bow on towards the forward roller. Niether roller is in contact with the hull when the boat is pulled all the way forward. The trailer has an extention to get it further into the water when retrieveing. The coupler is welded on to the tongue. It seems to be a stock trailer.
The trailer for my '93 23.5 has two rollers. The one mounted forward is fairly high like you suggest. The one just in front of the bunks guides the bow on towards the forward roller. Niether roller is in contact with the hull when the boat is pulled all the way forward. The trailer has an extention to get it further into the water when retrieveing. The coupler is welded on to the tongue. It seems to be a stock trailer.
1993 23.5
My trailer title says it originally came from hunter. It's a 1993 model. Thanks for your help, it sounds like I need to find a way to extend my trailer further down into the water. Especially if some trailers have no rollers.
My trailer title says it originally came from hunter. It's a 1993 model. Thanks for your help, it sounds like I need to find a way to extend my trailer further down into the water. Especially if some trailers have no rollers.
Here is a photo of my 1986 23.5 on hard
I don't know if it will help. I have a roller below the bow, and 2 front stops.
I don't know if it will help. I have a roller below the bow, and 2 front stops.
No Rollers Here Brent
My '94 23.5 does not have any rollers. Yours must be an early hull number before they changed the design of the trailer. My trailer is like Rick Macdonald's with just the two bunk boards and the rubber piece for the bow also built by Hunter. I heard that Hunter had a couple trailer manufacturers including themselves. Every sailboat trailer I've seen has a tounge extender that slides out and is locked in place with a pin. I'm surprised that yours does not have one. Good luck.
My '94 23.5 does not have any rollers. Yours must be an early hull number before they changed the design of the trailer. My trailer is like Rick Macdonald's with just the two bunk boards and the rubber piece for the bow also built by Hunter. I heard that Hunter had a couple trailer manufacturers including themselves. Every sailboat trailer I've seen has a tounge extender that slides out and is locked in place with a pin. I'm surprised that yours does not have one. Good luck.
Same on My '95 23.5
Mine is like Jonathan's and Rick's I added a roller however. It helps a great deal in getting the bow all the way up to the top of the bow stop. I think there is a picture of it here on the site somewhere.
Mine is like Jonathan's and Rick's I added a roller however. It helps a great deal in getting the bow all the way up to the top of the bow stop. I think there is a picture of it here on the site somewhere.
photo
The bow roller is supposedly to keep the bow of the boat from hitting the trailer as it comes up. I had serious questions about that little item. at one point, a piece of plastic was put on the trailer versus roller. I am not sure if you can adjust that sucker. Is it bolted in? If so, in some cases, drilling a new holes in order to lower it would be in order for your situation. A picture would help me better to advise you on this situation.
The bow roller is supposedly to keep the bow of the boat from hitting the trailer as it comes up. I had serious questions about that little item. at one point, a piece of plastic was put on the trailer versus roller. I am not sure if you can adjust that sucker. Is it bolted in? If so, in some cases, drilling a new holes in order to lower it would be in order for your situation. A picture would help me better to advise you on this situation.
Ah yes, the plastic piece
Now that Dave mentions it, there is a piece of plastic about a foot long on one of the forward crossbars between the bunks. I'd have to look to see if the bow could actually hit and slide on it. ...RickM...
Now that Dave mentions it, there is a piece of plastic about a foot long on one of the forward crossbars between the bunks. I'd have to look to see if the bow could actually hit and slide on it. ...RickM...
Trailer Extension
Upon further examination, you were right, the trailer does have an extension which might allow me to float the boat over the forward roller, it is also lifting the front of the boat off the bunks ever so slightly. I now however, have another problem. The surge brake lines do not allow me to use the extension. I'm not much of a mechanic. Do brake lines have to be solid because of the pressure necessary to active the brake drum or do they make flexible brake line that would solve the new problem? Thanks for any help.
Upon further examination, you were right, the trailer does have an extension which might allow me to float the boat over the forward roller, it is also lifting the front of the boat off the bunks ever so slightly. I now however, have another problem. The surge brake lines do not allow me to use the extension. I'm not much of a mechanic. Do brake lines have to be solid because of the pressure necessary to active the brake drum or do they make flexible brake line that would solve the new problem? Thanks for any help.
Mine has rubber hoses to handle the extension
It might be just one hose; I'm not sure offhand. They attach to solid lines aft of the extension.
It might be just one hose; I'm not sure offhand. They attach to solid lines aft of the extension.
Brent brake system must remain closed
Brent, you cannot disconnect the hose from the master cylinder in the hitch without having to bleed the system again. It is similar to the brake system on your vehicle with basically the same components. Mine is the same as Rick Webb's. I have a hose connected to the tubing which allows the tounge extension to be extended. If you disconnect the hose then you allow air into the system and it will not function properly. A brake system is filled with hydraulic fluid which is incompressable so when you apply the brake the force is exerted through the brake fluid on to the wheel cylinders which in turn pushes the brake shoes out against the drum to make you stop. Air is a compressable substance which means that the force you exert on the brake system is absorbed in the compressing of the air and is NOT transferred to the wheel cylinder, etc. etc. so then your brakes don't work. You might call Hunter to see if they have the brake hose to extend the tongue. If not an industrial hose shop should be able to make you one. I have been told by Champion Trailer sales (championtrailer.com) that the hose fittings must be D.O.T. fittings not just regular hydraulic fittings. My hose is shot and I am getting ready to spend a bunch of money at Champion Trailer upgrading my axle, springs etc. They did not have a source on the hose and I have not begun my search. Crazy can you reccommend a source on the hose? Sorry for the lengthy explanation. It's the engineer in me coming out!
Brent, you cannot disconnect the hose from the master cylinder in the hitch without having to bleed the system again. It is similar to the brake system on your vehicle with basically the same components. Mine is the same as Rick Webb's. I have a hose connected to the tubing which allows the tounge extension to be extended. If you disconnect the hose then you allow air into the system and it will not function properly. A brake system is filled with hydraulic fluid which is incompressable so when you apply the brake the force is exerted through the brake fluid on to the wheel cylinders which in turn pushes the brake shoes out against the drum to make you stop. Air is a compressable substance which means that the force you exert on the brake system is absorbed in the compressing of the air and is NOT transferred to the wheel cylinder, etc. etc. so then your brakes don't work. You might call Hunter to see if they have the brake hose to extend the tongue. If not an industrial hose shop should be able to make you one. I have been told by Champion Trailer sales (championtrailer.com) that the hose fittings must be D.O.T. fittings not just regular hydraulic fittings. My hose is shot and I am getting ready to spend a bunch of money at Champion Trailer upgrading my axle, springs etc. They did not have a source on the hose and I have not begun my search. Crazy can you reccommend a source on the hose? Sorry for the lengthy explanation. It's the engineer in me coming out!
Brent, my trailer
had a quick disconnect connector on the back of the surge master cylinder, kinda like you might have seen to attach different tools to an air compressor hose. You would just disconnect the brake line and then extend the tongue, and then reconnect it when you un-extended the tongue. These devices maintain the fluid in the line and do not allow air to invade. -Tom
had a quick disconnect connector on the back of the surge master cylinder, kinda like you might have seen to attach different tools to an air compressor hose. You would just disconnect the brake line and then extend the tongue, and then reconnect it when you un-extended the tongue. These devices maintain the fluid in the line and do not allow air to invade. -Tom
Here Was A Source
Found this in the archives. Maybe we could get Phil to make them available through the chandlery? http://archive.sailboatowners.com/archive/archivepview.tpl?sku=2001256190817.83&forumabr=sb&fno=5&_ptitle=ptitle%2Brtitle&_psamp=psamp&&model=none&forum=none&andor=wa&keyword=%20brake%20line&pr=p&ssite=HOW&srt=pdate&start=1&db=2001
Found this in the archives. Maybe we could get Phil to make them available through the chandlery? http://archive.sailboatowners.com/archive/archivepview.tpl?sku=2001256190817.83&forumabr=sb&fno=5&_ptitle=ptitle%2Brtitle&_psamp=psamp&&model=none&forum=none&andor=wa&keyword=%20brake%20line&pr=p&ssite=HOW&srt=pdate&start=1&db=2001
Thanks For The Good Ideas
Thanks for the address. I'll have to look if I have a quick connect. If not the flexible hose sounds like a good option. I'm also considering moving the bow roller down since many of you either don't have one or have one that doesn't support any weight once loaded. Thanks again for the help.
Thanks for the address. I'll have to look if I have a quick connect. If not the flexible hose sounds like a good option. I'm also considering moving the bow roller down since many of you either don't have one or have one that doesn't support any weight once loaded. Thanks again for the help.
your better off
not using a quick disconnect if you can avoid it. My 99 240 trailer is set up with an extension and flexible line wih a disconnect, but I don' need o use it on my boat ramp.. If you have to use the disconnect, you will have issues with air and water in the lines. the air will bleed out by itself eventually, but braking performance will suffer until it does. water in the system is another problem. if you have to use the disconnect, try to keep the coupler out of the water if possible. flush the system at least anually. that is a pain in the a__ on a trailer because you need a pressure or vacuum bleeder to do it right.
not using a quick disconnect if you can avoid it. My 99 240 trailer is set up with an extension and flexible line wih a disconnect, but I don' need o use it on my boat ramp.. If you have to use the disconnect, you will have issues with air and water in the lines. the air will bleed out by itself eventually, but braking performance will suffer until it does. water in the system is another problem. if you have to use the disconnect, try to keep the coupler out of the water if possible. flush the system at least anually. that is a pain in the a__ on a trailer because you need a pressure or vacuum bleeder to do it right.
23.5 trailer brake hose
I replaced my hose by going to a place that specialized in making hydraulic hoses for construction equipment, etc... Just a small locally owned place. I doubt that the fittings are DOT approved, but they are certainly heavy duty looking. I asked the guy to use his finest hose and fittings. The assembly has held up well for about 7 seasons when the factory one pooped out after 2 or so.
I replaced my hose by going to a place that specialized in making hydraulic hoses for construction equipment, etc... Just a small locally owned place. I doubt that the fittings are DOT approved, but they are certainly heavy duty looking. I asked the guy to use his finest hose and fittings. The assembly has held up well for about 7 seasons when the factory one pooped out after 2 or so.
Quick connect source
Brent and all, This discussion prompted me to search for the quick disconnect and/or hose. Lo and behold Champion Trailers has a quick disconnect kit (see link below). It is designed to not let air into the system. It is a little pricey but I haven't been able to find a hose manufacturer that can make a hose fittings with D.O.T. connections. One told me that if they used non D.O.T. fittings and the line failed they would be liable and I would have to agree whole heartedly. To err on the side of caution I am going to try the quick disconnect route. Heck what's another $60 bucks. Isn't throwing money in the water the reason why we all bought boats anyway?
Brent and all, This discussion prompted me to search for the quick disconnect and/or hose. Lo and behold Champion Trailers has a quick disconnect kit (see link below). It is designed to not let air into the system. It is a little pricey but I haven't been able to find a hose manufacturer that can make a hose fittings with D.O.T. connections. One told me that if they used non D.O.T. fittings and the line failed they would be liable and I would have to agree whole heartedly. To err on the side of caution I am going to try the quick disconnect route. Heck what's another $60 bucks. Isn't throwing money in the water the reason why we all bought boats anyway?
Jonathan, That May be the Way to Go
I doubt that it would be much more than the long hose that would have to be custom made. We use a similar (maybe identical) system on munition trailers that we have to take the tounges off of when we load them on aircraft.
I doubt that it would be much more than the long hose that would have to be custom made. We use a similar (maybe identical) system on munition trailers that we have to take the tounges off of when we load them on aircraft.
Very True
You are definitely right about throwing money in a hole in the water. HAHAHAHAHA Thanks for the advice. 60 bucks doesn't seem too bad when compared to the constant repair work to the bow.
You are definitely right about throwing money in a hole in the water. HAHAHAHAHA Thanks for the advice. 60 bucks doesn't seem too bad when compared to the constant repair work to the bow.
- Status