Toilet attachment Base is going powdery / flakey

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Apr 22, 2011
234
Beneteau 311 Ft Myers Beach
I have a 2004 Beneteau 311. The toilet attachment base (I'm not really sure what the proper term is so I've attached a photo) is going powdery and probably should be replaced; (I guess?). It's bolted to the somewhat raised head floor there is no access that I can see to get to the underside of the bolts does anyone know if Beneteau used nuts on the other other side or are the bolts screwed into a tapped metal plate?

I'm looking at the Defender catalog and I don't see where this part is even available nor does it seem to come with a new toilet, hopefully I'm mistaken and someone can set me straight.

20190926_142605.jpg
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,323
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Toilets are often lag bolted to the floor. Just remove the lag bolts.

Jabsco heads are inexpensive and the cost of rebuilding is relatively high. Replacing the head is probably a better option. If you go that route, consider an upgrade to a Raritan PHII. It is a much more robust head and pumps more efficiently. Search for posts by @Peggie Hall HeadMistress she recommends them (and I think there is a newer model).
 
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JRT

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Feb 14, 2017
2,039
Catalina 310 211 Lake Guntersville, AL
The entire head is $149, but like others said I like my Raritan PHII the original owner upgraded to on our C310.

 
Dec 2, 1997
8,709
- - LIttle Rock
All marine toilets including Jabsco mount using lag bolts...no nuts.

You could just replace the base..that would be the least expensive solution.Paul Campagna is Jabsco's toilet guru..his direct line is 978.282.5246
BUT...if the toilet is original or even more than about 5 years old you'd definitely want to replace the pump too. But if you're gonna have to remove the whole thing to replace the base and the pump, you have a perfect excuse to upgrade to the toilet that's been top-rated since it was introduced in 1982--the Raritan PHII. The newest version has a redesigned base that makes it a plug 'n' play replacement for your Jabsco...they've renamed it the PH SuperFlush Raritan PH SuperFlush Also available as a "Conversion" that lets you re-use your existing bowl, seat and lid. Cost isn't a lot less than the complete toilet, but without a bowl , shipping costs are a LOT lower. Check sbo.com to see if they have it, if not Defender does, with both standard (small) and household size bowls.

--Peggie
 

JRT

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Feb 14, 2017
2,039
Catalina 310 211 Lake Guntersville, AL
Ok @Peggie Hall HeadMistress so why is there still the PHII list and the PH Superflush listed? The PHII listed price is higher then the Superflush price on Defender. This has confused me a bit when I thought my PHII from 2010 needed a new pump and I was considering a full size replacement.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,709
- - LIttle Rock
Raritan keeps the original PHII in production because an electric motor--which only replaces the pump HANDLE, so it's still a manual pump--can be added to it, but not to the PH SuperFlush version...and there are still a few people who want the "pushbutton convenience" of an electric toilet but only want a toilet that can be converted--or I should I say, reverted--back to manual in the event of a catastrophic power failure by simply disconnecting it from the pump and sticking the handle back into the yoke. Sounds like a great idea...but putting a motor on a PHII actually turns an outstandng manual toilet into a poor excuse for an electric toilet because the motor pumps the toilet a lot faster and with a shorter stroke than pumping manually, which causes it to take longer to prime and "choke" on flushes that pumping manually can easily push through the system. Many owners who've added the motor end up disconnecting it permanently.

Both versions still use the exact same PHII pump, btw.

--Peggie
 
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Apr 22, 2011
234
Beneteau 311 Ft Myers Beach
Thank you for the information. While I'm taking it out I may as well install a new Raritan PH Super Flush as I am getting some drain back from the holding tank and as Peggy said I need a new pump.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,709
- - LIttle Rock
While I'm taking it out I may as well install a new Raritan PH Super Flush as I am getting some drain back from the holding tank and as Peggy said I need a new pump.
The inlet on the tank is at--or on--the top of the tank and tank contents can't jump. So what's running back to to toilet isn't likely to be from the tank unless it's full to overflowing or it only happens when the boat is heeled hard over on that tack. So what you're seeing is waste in the toilet discharge line that isn't making it INTO the tank. A new toilet won't solve that problem, 'cuz if you've only begun experiencing backflow recently, that's a strong indication of a blocked tank vent.

All tank vents have two main functions: to provide an escape for air displaced by incoming contents and provide a source of air to replace contents as they're pulled out. When air displaced by incoming waste cannot escape out the vent the tank becomes pressurized, creating increasing back pressure that prevents the toilet from flushing,
The two most common locations for a vent blockage are the vent thru-hull and the other end of the vent line--that end of the hose and the vent fitting on the tank. Start by cleaning out the thru-hull...use a screwdriver blade, ice pick--whatever works. If there's a screen in it, knock it out...screens cause more problems than they prevent. If that doesn't result in a spew out the vent, you'll need to relieve the pressure before removing the vent line from the tank to clean them out...so open the deck pumpout fitting VERY CAREFULLY with a hose at the ready. Be sure you're UPwind of it! Scrape out that end of the vent line and the vent fitting on the tank...replace the vent line.

As long as you're doing all this work, I recommend you replace the "vent" thru-hull with an open bulkhead or "mushroom" thru-hull. Not only will this allow a lot more air exchange via the vent, but you can prevent any future vent blockages by sticking a hose nozzle against it to backflush the vent line every time you wash the boat.

You might consider getting a copy of my book (see link in my signature below)....the title (my publisher's idea) is a bit misleading...'cuz although it does deal with every source of odor on a boat and how to cure, or better yet PREVENT 'em, it's actually a comprehensive "marine toilets and sanitation systems 101" manual that explains the laws, describes all the types of systems and how they work, and will help you learn how to operate and maintain your system to prevent 99% of problems instead of having to cure 'em. 'Cuz you get to do any preventive maintenance on your terms when it's convenient...the need to cure a problem never happens when it is! And I'm always glad to answer any questions it doesn't.

--Peggie
 

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Apr 22, 2011
234
Beneteau 311 Ft Myers Beach
Good information!! I'll check the vent this afternoon as I obviously need to remedy this issue before I take out the toilet.