Toe Rail

[Jdaniel343]

I have a 1977 Catalina 27. I would like to add aluminum toe rail extrusion to the top of the existing molded hull toe rails.
Has anyone else did this. I would just feel safer with a more substantial toe rail.
Where can one purchase these extrusions?
I only want to add these from the tee track forward.

 

[centerline]

I have a 1977 Catalina 27. I would like to add aluminum toe rail extrusion to the top of the existing molded hull toe rails.
Has anyone else did this. I would just feel safer with a more substantial toe rail.
Where can one purchase these extrusions?
I only want to add these from the tee track forward.

I have read where some bluewater cruisers have added 1x3 or 1x4 teak to the bottom of the lifeline stanchions, from the pulpit rearward to create a better toe rails... this prevents the need to put more holes in an area that may be difficult to get to and fasten it securely.
An additional stanchion or a short stubby may be necessary between the pulpit and the first existing stanchion to creat enough strength so the greenwater does not break the 1" thick rail in the first 8 feet of it where the pressure is most frequent and usually the greatest...

Hal Roth was one sailor who did this to Whisper, the boat he sailed for many tens of thosands of miles around the world a few times...

 

[Stu Jackson]

I would just feel safer with a more substantial toe rail.

I was going to ask "Why?" but then realized you'd said this.

I still ask "Why?"

The C27s and almost all that generation of Catalinas have a pretty good sized toe rail at the gunwale.

One of the things I've found to be an extremely important SAFETY item is to get good shoes with great GRIPPING power. Just yesterday I forgot to change into my "only-on-the-boat" shoes and damn near slid across the cockpit and we hadn't even left the dock!

Do you have roller furling? If not, then I suggest you invest in a downhaul line, as shown below (for a C22 but it is as applicable to your boat as to that one and even larger boats).

When we had our C22 & C25, we'd sail on port tack, then heave to, and then drop the jib with the downhaul line (halyard led aft) from the cockpit. Much safer than going out on a bouncy foredeck.

Even if you find the extrusions, mounting them securely will be a real bear because of how Catalina built the hull to deck joint underneath the gunwale.

Good luck.

 

[Jdaniel343]

Centerline I really like this idea. Wouldn't take much to mount these and cost is nothing compared to ordering and SHIPPING the extrusions.

 

[Jdaniel343]

Stu I do have roller furling so I don't need to go to bow except when flying spinaker. I do have to go to the mast for reefing.
Catalinas do have about and 1" to 1-1/2" built in toe rail, I would just like another inch or so to feel more comfortable.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Stu I do have roller furling so I don't need to go to bow except when flying spinaker. I do have to go to the mast for reefing.
Catalinas do have about and 1" to 1-1/2" built in toe rail, I would just like another inch or so to feel more comfortable.

Understood. Have you considered running your main halyard and reefing lines (double line IS better) back to the cockpit?

Here's another idea: I was on a new Jeanneau 349 yesterday (just happened to be next to us in our guest berth at another marina). Because the cockpit floor was dead flat, they installed these two big wooden blocks for foot support when the boat heeled. Personally I think it's an atrocious design, stupid tripping hazard, but you might be able to cobble something together on your foredeck where you think that your foot would slide out. Anything inboard of the toe rail would be MUCH easier to install, as I noted earlier.

 

[Jdaniel343]

Thanks Stu.
We could use something when healed as we are both short.
Something like this could work around the mast area.
I have thought about running everything back to the cockpit but at this time I don't think I will. May change mind as sailing season gets closer.

 

[The Garbone]

Another good thing about the teak boards between the stanchions is if you lash them so they are removable they can be handy fender boards.

 

[centerline]

Another good thing about the teak boards between the stanchions is if you lash them so they are removable they can be handy fender boards.

They could be lashed just as well, but the ones i actually seen had the boards outside of the stanchions with stainless u-bolts around the stanchion, thru the board with nyloc nuts....
I suppose you could use acorn nuts also, but you would need a drop of blue loc-tite to keep them snug...