Timing/order for waxing topsides when bottom painting

Feb 16, 2021
519
Hunter Legend 35.5 Bellingham
I just hauled out this morning, and will launch in the afternoon on Thursday, in 2 more days, so I’m working on a bit of a tight timeline (I wish I had more time but I don’t). I plan to let the hull dry and then tape and paint tomorrow.
My question is: when/how to clean and wax the topsides? Seems I could start today while the hull is drying, but I assume I shouldn’t apply wax until after the final coat of bottom paint is dry and the tape removed from the waterline. It seems waxing before bottom painting would prevent the waterline tape from sticking adequately to the hull, as it would be going on a freshly waxed surface.

should my process be:
Day 1: Clean topsides after hull is pressure washed, let hull dry overnight.
Day 2: tape and paint hull in the morning. 2nd coat in afternoon (I have confirmed adequate drying time for 2nd coat)
Day 3: 3rd coat of bottom paint on leading edges of bow, keel, rudder. Once dry, wax topsides.
Launch day 3 late afternoon.

Should I avoid cleaning with 920 after bottom painting? I don’t want to compromise the paint. Should I just wait until after launch to clean and wax the topsides?

Or is there a more expedient way to handle all this? I have plenty of time this first day while the boat is drying, before taping and painting tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
Jan 11, 2014
13,951
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
I don't think it matters a whole lot. One theory is wax after bottom paint because bottom paint won't adhere in places that were waxed. As neat as we try to be, wax will inevitably get below the waterline.

Personally, I always wash and wax and then bottom paint without any difficulty or paint failures and I do get some wax on below the waterline.
 
May 17, 2004
6,112
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
I wouldn’t worry about it either. I usually wax before painting too, because the waxing can be done earlier in March before temperatures are good enough for painting. The tape should still stick just fine. In theory wax residue on the paint could be an issue but I’ve never had a big problem with it.
 
Apr 11, 2010
991
Hunter 38 Whitehall MI
I usually wash and polish first because the cleaner I use will run down onto and make a mess of the fresh paint.
Then I tape the paint line and paint the bottom.
 
Feb 16, 2021
519
Hunter Legend 35.5 Bellingham
I purchased Collinite 920 to clean the hull before applying the Fleetwax. But some sources say to not use 920 as it could leave a waxy residue and interfere with bottom paint adhesion. Is this true? What do you guys use to clean the top sides before waxing and then bottom painting?
 
Jan 11, 2014
13,951
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
I've been using the Collinite products for years and have not had any issues with paint not adhering to the hull. Don't intentionally put the wax or cleaner on the hull below the waterline, just don't worry about a few over runs. Just wipe them off.

Usually I wash the topsides with Dawn, then use the Collinite Cleaner and then Collinite liquid wax. Every few years I will use a buffer and a polishing compound to remove any oxidation the cleaner didn't get.

This is a 25 year old hull, cleaned and waxed with Collinite and buffed out with a buffer.

1778034165042.jpeg
 

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,304
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
If you haul out in the morning, do your power wash while on the slings (the yard usually requires this, anyway)... the bottom should be dry in a few hours. Leaving it over night??? I've never done that, that's just giving the yard money for nuttin'. If you're that concerned, get a hair dryer and a towel and dry it the old fashioned way:). Bottom paint is pretty gnarly stuff, it'll stick to anything, even wet area. At the very least, dry the water line and start taping asap. time is money. Do not try to clean brushes or rollers. Chip brushes and half dozen cheap rolls is the plan. BTW... use the GOOD tape....The fine edge, light green or yellow. If you use the blue, make sure it's actually intended for marine use and has a FINE edge. Use at least 1" tape, use a chip brush in critical areas around the rudder and along the tape. A buffer pad will smear the bottom paint, and it'll always smear, even the hard shell. You can prevent that by adding a 12" plastic skirt to the tape+ The paint will continue curing/drying under water and I always wait a month or more before I have the diver wipe it down (yes, stuff still grows.... mainly algae....not crusties.)
Finally, most yards will require the stands can only be moved by the yard master or his staff. Have this clarified when you sign the contract. Find out what normal procedure is at the yard and go with that. With every yard I've used the yard boss will paint the pad spots while the boat is hanging on the slings, wait a half hour or so and splash. I just leave some paint and a brush next to the boat, plus a $20 tip (hint: give him the tip up front and ask him to be careful the slings don't smear the bottom paint on your newly buffed topsides!!) Good luck. I think you're gonna find that bottom painting is easy, but cleaning an polish you topsides will be exhausting, so try to cobble together some type of scaffolding to make it easier on your arms.
 
Jun 21, 2004
3,093
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
After the boat is hauled, pressure washed, & blocked I wash the topsides using a soft deck brush & detergent. I tape the waterline BELOW the bottom paint / topside paint line & compound, polish, wax approximately one foot of topside above the tape, then re-tape the water line ABOVE the bottom paint line (on day one). Re-taping prevents wax application where fresh bottom paint will be applied. Continue compounding, polishing & waxing on afternoon of day one. Spot treat any rust on keel & treat with interprotect 2000 epoxy Coating. I have the yard lightly sand the bottom on the morning of day two, followed by a quick wash down with water to remove any residual dust from bottom. Onto compounding & waxing of topsides & one coat of bottom paint last thing in afternoon. Compound & waxing morning of day three on the remaining topsides, then cleaning, priming, & painting of prop, replacing shaft zinc& other incidentals. Apply second coat of bottom paint last thing on day three. Morning of day four, recoat waterline, rudder, & leading edge of keel with third coat of bottom paint. Splash in afternoon. Usually use 3M compound, 3M Finessit, & Collinte paste wax. Would like to try Presta compound / polish product in future. Takes me four days to complete.
 
Apr 11, 2010
991
Hunter 38 Whitehall MI
I purchased Collinite 920 to clean the hull before applying the Fleetwax. But some sources say to not use 920 as it could leave a waxy residue and interfere with bottom paint adhesion. Is this true? What do you guys use to clean the top sides before waxing and then bottom painting?
I use Serious Marine Cleaner to clean the topsides. It’s sprays on, I use soap and water to scrub and then spray it with hose.

Serious Marine Cleaner will take the dirt and black streaks off. Will actually take off the old wax too so it’s a bit aggressive but it cleans so well.
 
Feb 16, 2021
519
Hunter Legend 35.5 Bellingham
Got some persistent algae along the waterline, buggering where the tape will go. Any tips on removing that? Soap and a scrub sponge doesn’t seem to work too well.
 
Jan 11, 2014
13,951
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Mary Kate's On and Off will remove it. It is acid based with a surfactant. Does a nice job. Muriatic Acid will also work. Be sure to wear PPE and old clothes.