Thru Hull is weeping haulout 60 days away.

[Stillraining]

Gary

You are asking a very dificult question that has serious ramifications if somethinh happins, and I'm not trying to speak for anyone else ,but you have to get this fixed , It is not in a seaworthy condition but it has held, I't not getting better it can only get worse.My sugestions1) Secudual Haul out ASAP ( Make sure yard knows whats up!! )2) Try to get a friend in a power boat to follow you3) Slather on somemore stuff before the trip4) Support the Sea Strainer5) Triple up on bildge pumps6) Make sure engine is ready for the 15 mile run and more fuel then needed 7) Have wooden plugs aboardIf I dont mention safty gear someone will hammer me but I feel thats a givin "It's the Law" right.You will most likly be just fine but as stated above it has to be your decition to move it from the dock. The way I look at it is this. It has to be done. It can eather sit at the dock and sink without you getting wet. or it can sink with you attempting to move it with you on board.  I personaly think it will make it just fine and I woud move it if it were my boat with the above conditions met, it's better then the alternative.

 

[Stillraining]

Gary

You are asking a very dificult question that has serious ramifications if somethinh happins, and I'm not trying to speak for anyone else ,but you have to get this fixed , It is not in a seaworthy condition but it has held, I't not getting better it can only get worse.My sugestions1) Secudual Haul out ASAP ( Make sure yard knows whats up!! )2) Try to get a friend in a power boat to follow you3) Slather on somemore stuff before the trip4) Support the Sea Strainer5) Triple up on bildge pumps6) Make sure engine is ready for the 15 mile run and more fuel then needed 7) Have wooden plugs aboardIf I dont mention safty gear someone will hammer me but I feel thats a givin "It's the Law" right.You will most likly be just fine but as stated above it has to be your decition to move it from the dock. The way I look at it is this. It has to be done. It can eather sit at the dock and sink without you getting wet. or it can sink with you attempting to move it with you on board.  I personaly think it will make it just fine and I woud move it if it were my boat with the above conditions met, it's better then the alternative.

 

[Gary_H]

I guess it comes to this

It can't be fixed sitting in the water. It has to come out. I will take all the precautions I can. At least its straight up the ICW and I suppose I can run it aground if I have to. Thanks All. I'm going to try to do it this week while the weather is warm and calm. I don't mind telling you I'm nervous as hell but I guess I got no choice.

 

[Gary_H]

I guess it comes to this

It can't be fixed sitting in the water. It has to come out. I will take all the precautions I can. At least its straight up the ICW and I suppose I can run it aground if I have to. Thanks All. I'm going to try to do it this week while the weather is warm and calm. I don't mind telling you I'm nervous as hell but I guess I got no choice.

 

[Stillraining]

Having someone

follow you will help a GREAT deal with your nerves. PS: Use Mainsails instalation technique if possibal..

 

[Stillraining]

Having someone

follow you will help a GREAT deal with your nerves. PS: Use Mainsails instalation technique if possibal..

 

[Ross]

Better than having someone follow you would

be having someone else on board. Some one who could monitor the boat for trouble and could assist when and if you need damage control. This isn't like the bottom of the boat is going to fall off but if the fitting breaks 30 seconds after you look at while you are underway and you don't look again for ten minutes there could be an awful lot of water in the boat before you find it. Just be prepared for having the thing let go and be able to stuff a rag into it. You are not dealing with high pressure water here. Just 2 or 3 feet of head. That is 1 to 1 1/2 pounds per square inch. You can stopper a sink drain with a wash rag but you have to be there to stop the leak when it starts and you can't do that and helm the boat at the same time.

 

[Ross]

Better than having someone follow you would

be having someone else on board. Some one who could monitor the boat for trouble and could assist when and if you need damage control. This isn't like the bottom of the boat is going to fall off but if the fitting breaks 30 seconds after you look at while you are underway and you don't look again for ten minutes there could be an awful lot of water in the boat before you find it. Just be prepared for having the thing let go and be able to stuff a rag into it. You are not dealing with high pressure water here. Just 2 or 3 feet of head. That is 1 to 1 1/2 pounds per square inch. You can stopper a sink drain with a wash rag but you have to be there to stop the leak when it starts and you can't do that and helm the boat at the same time.

 

[Stillraining]

I would propose both

as if it does let go your done running your engine also and now you have a tow boat.

 

[Stillraining]

I would propose both

as if it does let go your done running your engine also and now you have a tow boat.

 

[Ross]

If this is the engine cooling water intake is there another thru hull that could

engine?

 

[Ross]

If this is the engine cooling water intake is there another thru hull that could

engine?

 

[sailaway78]

Rigid connection

Is there another thru hull you can jury rig as Ross suggested, and not use this one with the strainer hanging on it. Maybe a sink drain or something you could get a hose onto. Another consideration would be to try and get a short section of hose between the valve and the strainer, to relieve the strain and vibration. Of course this may require too much pressure on the thru hull. At least find some way to tie up that strainer and get as much strain off the fitting as you possibly can.

 

[sailaway78]

Rigid connection

Is there another thru hull you can jury rig as Ross suggested, and not use this one with the strainer hanging on it. Maybe a sink drain or something you could get a hose onto. Another consideration would be to try and get a short section of hose between the valve and the strainer, to relieve the strain and vibration. Of course this may require too much pressure on the thru hull. At least find some way to tie up that strainer and get as much strain off the fitting as you possibly can.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Gary

Nit sure if our comments have thoroughly scared you away. Hope not.My observation from being here a while is that we generally tend to give sound advice and if anything, also tend to be on the cautious side which is usuallly a good thing. All of the comments here are both.For all the justifiable pessimism expressed previously, it's not impossible that this situation has existed since long before you took ownership which also isn't to say it could fail tomorrow; only that it is in all likelihood not a show-stopper which would prevent me from getting to a haulout yard a few hours away. My point being that in a confined waterway such as you'll be in, the worst thing that could happen is it will begin to leak excessivly but not to the point it can't be controlled. It's alot more disconcerting to look down from the cockpit and see water when you have no clue from where it is coming. In your case, you have a head start.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Gary

Nit sure if our comments have thoroughly scared you away. Hope not.My observation from being here a while is that we generally tend to give sound advice and if anything, also tend to be on the cautious side which is usuallly a good thing. All of the comments here are both.For all the justifiable pessimism expressed previously, it's not impossible that this situation has existed since long before you took ownership which also isn't to say it could fail tomorrow; only that it is in all likelihood not a show-stopper which would prevent me from getting to a haulout yard a few hours away. My point being that in a confined waterway such as you'll be in, the worst thing that could happen is it will begin to leak excessivly but not to the point it can't be controlled. It's alot more disconcerting to look down from the cockpit and see water when you have no clue from where it is coming. In your case, you have a head start.

 

[Ross]

I even considered a can of urethane foam blown in around the strainer

It would make a terrible mess but one that yields to power tools.

 

[Ross]

I even considered a can of urethane foam blown in around the strainer

It would make a terrible mess but one that yields to power tools.

 

[Maine Sail]

Here's What

Here's what Groco one of the marine industries largest suppliers of through-hull, seacock and bronze in-line valves has to say about using in-line valves as opposed to seacocks.1) An inline valve has no means of attachment to the vessel hull or backing plate/block, so the valve can turn or loosen from the through-hull fitting with vibration or with normal use.2) If the connected through=-hull fitting becomes damaged or broken, as might occur if the vessel struck a submerged object, or if athe fitting was inadvertently damaged or broken inside the hull, there would be no way to shut off the flow of water into the vessel.3)In-line valves (ball valves or gate valves) have NPT threads which are NOT compatible with NPS threaded through-hull fittings (unless the through-hull fitting is machined with "combination thread"). Installing an in-line valve onto a through-hull fitting will create a mismatch of threads resulting in minimal thread engagement between the valve and through-hull fitting, and an UNSAFE installation. Property damage, personal injury, or both could occur. If you choose to utilize an in-line valve as a seacock, the through-hull fitting used MUST have "Combinations Thread"P.S. Combination threads must be custom machined and are NOT readily available! there are many boats out there running around with MINIMAL THREAD ENGAGEMENT between the through hull and in-line valve.....!

 

[Maine Sail]

Here's What

Here's what Groco one of the marine industries largest suppliers of through-hull, seacock and bronze in-line valves has to say about using in-line valves as opposed to seacocks.1) An inline valve has no means of attachment to the vessel hull or backing plate/block, so the valve can turn or loosen from the through-hull fitting with vibration or with normal use.2) If the connected through=-hull fitting becomes damaged or broken, as might occur if the vessel struck a submerged object, or if athe fitting was inadvertently damaged or broken inside the hull, there would be no way to shut off the flow of water into the vessel.3)In-line valves (ball valves or gate valves) have NPT threads which are NOT compatible with NPS threaded through-hull fittings (unless the through-hull fitting is machined with "combination thread"). Installing an in-line valve onto a through-hull fitting will create a mismatch of threads resulting in minimal thread engagement between the valve and through-hull fitting, and an UNSAFE installation. Property damage, personal injury, or both could occur. If you choose to utilize an in-line valve as a seacock, the through-hull fitting used MUST have "Combinations Thread"P.S. Combination threads must be custom machined and are NOT readily available! there are many boats out there running around with MINIMAL THREAD ENGAGEMENT between the through hull and in-line valve.....!