Here is my problem I just noticed a small amount of water leaking from what appears to be the base of the raw water thru hull. Upon closer inspection at appears as if the PO had used some kind of white rubbery sealant to seal the leak. Apparently this seal old and failing. Is there a sealant that any of you recommend to reseal this slight leak that will work until I get the boat hauled? I was planning on hauling in a couple of months and getting the bottom painted and replacing the thu hull.
Thru Hull is weeping haulout 60 days away.
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Here is my problem I just noticed a small amount of water leaking from what appears to be the base of the raw water thru hull. Upon closer inspection at appears as if the PO had used some kind of white rubbery sealant to seal the leak. Apparently this seal old and failing. Is there a sealant that any of you recommend to reseal this slight leak that will work until I get the boat hauled? I was planning on hauling in a couple of months and getting the bottom painted and replacing the thu hull.
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Try some waterproof epoxy, slather all over
and keep checking carefully, or do what Jim suggests. Also see this earlier thread just today!: http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pviewall.tpl?&fno=21&uid=73200280089&sku=2008006222524.81
and keep checking carefully, or do what Jim suggests. Also see this earlier thread just today!: http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pviewall.tpl?&fno=21&uid=73200280089&sku=2008006222524.81
Try some waterproof epoxy, slather all over
and keep checking carefully, or do what Jim suggests. Also see this earlier thread just today!: http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pviewall.tpl?&fno=21&uid=73200280089&sku=2008006222524.81
and keep checking carefully, or do what Jim suggests. Also see this earlier thread just today!: http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/pviewall.tpl?&fno=21&uid=73200280089&sku=2008006222524.81
I was waiting
Till I had money to do all the work I needed while I't on the hill. But if I have to I can haul it early to replace the fitting. Especially if there's no safe temporary fix.
Till I had money to do all the work I needed while I't on the hill. But if I have to I can haul it early to replace the fitting. Especially if there's no safe temporary fix.
I was waiting
Till I had money to do all the work I needed while I't on the hill. But if I have to I can haul it early to replace the fitting. Especially if there's no safe temporary fix.
Till I had money to do all the work I needed while I't on the hill. But if I have to I can haul it early to replace the fitting. Especially if there's no safe temporary fix.
epoxy should work
Gary As Stu suggested, some waterproof epoxy should work in the short-term. You might try banding the wet epoxy once applied to keep it in place and force some pressure on the leaking area until it sets. Hard to tell but it appears there is no seacock and the intake filter sits laterally on the unsupported thruhull. If so, the stress on the bronze thruhull may have cracked the metal which doesn't tolerate shear stress well, the result being a crack and the leak for which no amount of epoxy will render it safe.
Gary As Stu suggested, some waterproof epoxy should work in the short-term. You might try banding the wet epoxy once applied to keep it in place and force some pressure on the leaking area until it sets. Hard to tell but it appears there is no seacock and the intake filter sits laterally on the unsupported thruhull. If so, the stress on the bronze thruhull may have cracked the metal which doesn't tolerate shear stress well, the result being a crack and the leak for which no amount of epoxy will render it safe.
epoxy should work
Gary As Stu suggested, some waterproof epoxy should work in the short-term. You might try banding the wet epoxy once applied to keep it in place and force some pressure on the leaking area until it sets. Hard to tell but it appears there is no seacock and the intake filter sits laterally on the unsupported thruhull. If so, the stress on the bronze thruhull may have cracked the metal which doesn't tolerate shear stress well, the result being a crack and the leak for which no amount of epoxy will render it safe.
Gary As Stu suggested, some waterproof epoxy should work in the short-term. You might try banding the wet epoxy once applied to keep it in place and force some pressure on the leaking area until it sets. Hard to tell but it appears there is no seacock and the intake filter sits laterally on the unsupported thruhull. If so, the stress on the bronze thruhull may have cracked the metal which doesn't tolerate shear stress well, the result being a crack and the leak for which no amount of epoxy will render it safe.
No support
There is a seacock between the thru hull and the filter but you are right all of that is sitting unsupported on top of the thru hull. Should I try to rig something up to support the weight of the seacock and filter and then load on some epoxy?
There is a seacock between the thru hull and the filter but you are right all of that is sitting unsupported on top of the thru hull. Should I try to rig something up to support the weight of the seacock and filter and then load on some epoxy?
No support
There is a seacock between the thru hull and the filter but you are right all of that is sitting unsupported on top of the thru hull. Should I try to rig something up to support the weight of the seacock and filter and then load on some epoxy?
There is a seacock between the thru hull and the filter but you are right all of that is sitting unsupported on top of the thru hull. Should I try to rig something up to support the weight of the seacock and filter and then load on some epoxy?
The white stuff used by PO looks like it
maybe some kind of two part epoxy putty to me. It looks like the strainer is attached in such a way that it may act as a lever on the pipe (?). I'd be nervous enough to maybe pre-rig a piece of heavy canvas or similar to fother it real quick and keep a good supply of wax toilet rings, expansion plugs, wood plugs and pumps handy. If you can't haul it soon.
maybe some kind of two part epoxy putty to me. It looks like the strainer is attached in such a way that it may act as a lever on the pipe (?). I'd be nervous enough to maybe pre-rig a piece of heavy canvas or similar to fother it real quick and keep a good supply of wax toilet rings, expansion plugs, wood plugs and pumps handy. If you can't haul it soon.
The white stuff used by PO looks like it
maybe some kind of two part epoxy putty to me. It looks like the strainer is attached in such a way that it may act as a lever on the pipe (?). I'd be nervous enough to maybe pre-rig a piece of heavy canvas or similar to fother it real quick and keep a good supply of wax toilet rings, expansion plugs, wood plugs and pumps handy. If you can't haul it soon.
maybe some kind of two part epoxy putty to me. It looks like the strainer is attached in such a way that it may act as a lever on the pipe (?). I'd be nervous enough to maybe pre-rig a piece of heavy canvas or similar to fother it real quick and keep a good supply of wax toilet rings, expansion plugs, wood plugs and pumps handy. If you can't haul it soon.
aren't boats fun?
Gary I wouldn't be too concerned if it's held that way for a while already but, of this one is any indication, I would look around for other "novel" fixes the PO might have done. If it were me, until you can haul it, I'd relocate the strainer to eliminate the potential for a worse problem, epoxy the leaking area and run a hose from the thruhull to the strainer at some close-by convenient location close to but not sitting on top of the thruhull
Gary I wouldn't be too concerned if it's held that way for a while already but, of this one is any indication, I would look around for other "novel" fixes the PO might have done. If it were me, until you can haul it, I'd relocate the strainer to eliminate the potential for a worse problem, epoxy the leaking area and run a hose from the thruhull to the strainer at some close-by convenient location close to but not sitting on top of the thruhull
aren't boats fun?
Gary I wouldn't be too concerned if it's held that way for a while already but, of this one is any indication, I would look around for other "novel" fixes the PO might have done. If it were me, until you can haul it, I'd relocate the strainer to eliminate the potential for a worse problem, epoxy the leaking area and run a hose from the thruhull to the strainer at some close-by convenient location close to but not sitting on top of the thruhull
Gary I wouldn't be too concerned if it's held that way for a while already but, of this one is any indication, I would look around for other "novel" fixes the PO might have done. If it were me, until you can haul it, I'd relocate the strainer to eliminate the potential for a worse problem, epoxy the leaking area and run a hose from the thruhull to the strainer at some close-by convenient location close to but not sitting on top of the thruhull
Gary
Quote: "There is a seacock between the thru hull and the filter but you are right all of that is sitting unsupported on top of the thru hull. Should I try to rig something up to support the weight of the seacock and filter and then load on some epoxy?" Gary, You do NOT have a Seacock. A Seacock has a flange that gets through bolted to the hull to which the through hull or "mushroon head part" is then threaded into. because the Seacock is through bolted to the hull it's not dependent on the through hull for it's support. What you have is either a gate valve or a ball valve screwed directly to a through hull, which is a big NO, NO, although many, many owners and builder do or did this it not right and also not safe. Read the link below especially the part about mis-matched threads.. Read this article http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls and it will hopefully explain the difference between proper Seacocks and a valve mounted directly to a through hull. It does not even look like you have a backing plate either which probably helped the through hull flex and break the seal. If it were my boat I would be pulling it asap and fixing ALL the hull penetrations and adding proper through bolted Seacocks. Sealant can only do so much...
Quote: "There is a seacock between the thru hull and the filter but you are right all of that is sitting unsupported on top of the thru hull. Should I try to rig something up to support the weight of the seacock and filter and then load on some epoxy?" Gary, You do NOT have a Seacock. A Seacock has a flange that gets through bolted to the hull to which the through hull or "mushroon head part" is then threaded into. because the Seacock is through bolted to the hull it's not dependent on the through hull for it's support. What you have is either a gate valve or a ball valve screwed directly to a through hull, which is a big NO, NO, although many, many owners and builder do or did this it not right and also not safe. Read the link below especially the part about mis-matched threads.. Read this article http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls and it will hopefully explain the difference between proper Seacocks and a valve mounted directly to a through hull. It does not even look like you have a backing plate either which probably helped the through hull flex and break the seal. If it were my boat I would be pulling it asap and fixing ALL the hull penetrations and adding proper through bolted Seacocks. Sealant can only do so much...
Gary
Quote: "There is a seacock between the thru hull and the filter but you are right all of that is sitting unsupported on top of the thru hull. Should I try to rig something up to support the weight of the seacock and filter and then load on some epoxy?" Gary, You do NOT have a Seacock. A Seacock has a flange that gets through bolted to the hull to which the through hull or "mushroon head part" is then threaded into. because the Seacock is through bolted to the hull it's not dependent on the through hull for it's support. What you have is either a gate valve or a ball valve screwed directly to a through hull, which is a big NO, NO, although many, many owners and builder do or did this it not right and also not safe. Read the link below especially the part about mis-matched threads.. Read this article http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls and it will hopefully explain the difference between proper Seacocks and a valve mounted directly to a through hull. It does not even look like you have a backing plate either which probably helped the through hull flex and break the seal. If it were my boat I would be pulling it asap and fixing ALL the hull penetrations and adding proper through bolted Seacocks. Sealant can only do so much...
Quote: "There is a seacock between the thru hull and the filter but you are right all of that is sitting unsupported on top of the thru hull. Should I try to rig something up to support the weight of the seacock and filter and then load on some epoxy?" Gary, You do NOT have a Seacock. A Seacock has a flange that gets through bolted to the hull to which the through hull or "mushroon head part" is then threaded into. because the Seacock is through bolted to the hull it's not dependent on the through hull for it's support. What you have is either a gate valve or a ball valve screwed directly to a through hull, which is a big NO, NO, although many, many owners and builder do or did this it not right and also not safe. Read the link below especially the part about mis-matched threads.. Read this article http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls and it will hopefully explain the difference between proper Seacocks and a valve mounted directly to a through hull. It does not even look like you have a backing plate either which probably helped the through hull flex and break the seal. If it were my boat I would be pulling it asap and fixing ALL the hull penetrations and adding proper through bolted Seacocks. Sealant can only do so much...
Don, you are right ..
I need to get the strainer off the top of that thru hull. The seacock screws into the thru hull and then the strainer is screwed into the top of the seacock. I should be able to disconnect the strainer and secure it to a bulkhead support and run a hose from the seacock to the strainer. I just hope I can get the strainer separated from the seacock without putting too much pressure on the whole thing. Geez what fun.
I need to get the strainer off the top of that thru hull. The seacock screws into the thru hull and then the strainer is screwed into the top of the seacock. I should be able to disconnect the strainer and secure it to a bulkhead support and run a hose from the seacock to the strainer. I just hope I can get the strainer separated from the seacock without putting too much pressure on the whole thing. Geez what fun.
Don, you are right ..
I need to get the strainer off the top of that thru hull. The seacock screws into the thru hull and then the strainer is screwed into the top of the seacock. I should be able to disconnect the strainer and secure it to a bulkhead support and run a hose from the seacock to the strainer. I just hope I can get the strainer separated from the seacock without putting too much pressure on the whole thing. Geez what fun.
I need to get the strainer off the top of that thru hull. The seacock screws into the thru hull and then the strainer is screwed into the top of the seacock. I should be able to disconnect the strainer and secure it to a bulkhead support and run a hose from the seacock to the strainer. I just hope I can get the strainer separated from the seacock without putting too much pressure on the whole thing. Geez what fun.
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