Thread maintenance on my sailboat

dlochner · Mar 31, 2023

Try using mineral spirits to clean the grease off the threads. Use a brass brush or a nylon detailing brush, these look like big tooth brushes. Apply some grease, marine bearing grease would work or red grease. Just enough to lubricate the threads too much and it will attract junk. Inspect annually and repeat as necessary.

Ralph Johnstone · Mar 31, 2023

Hard to say what the parent material is. Possibly aluminum.

At any rate, I'd use a fine steel wire brush to clean all of the threads taking great care you only brush with the threads. Lubricate with grease after the threads screw in easily. The lids also come with a gasket which cannot be purchased separately. This serves to keep the threads clean and water out of the other side. When making your own gaskets, see here:

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JamesG161 · Mar 31, 2023

Lanocote is great stuff and I use it when the mating part are not of same metals too.

Also Tef-Gel

Tef-Gel vs. Lanocote - Practical Sailor
Jim...

dlochner · Apr 1, 2023

Lanocote will also work. Tefgel will work too, but I wouldn't use it in this application as it is too expensive. Red grease is well Red and can be purchased as Red grease at an Auto Parts store, probably the least expensive option. I also use it to grease the threads of 1 lb Propane bottles, keeps them from rusting and they screw in easier on the grill.

Hello Below · Apr 1, 2023

dlochner said:
Red grease is well Red and can be purchased as Red grease at an Auto Parts store, probably the least expensive option.

Is there any specific brand that you would recommend? There seems to be many manufacturers that sell Red grease with a range of prices and with specs that vary.
Red Grease, Blue Grease: What does color say about grease?

dlochner · Apr 1, 2023

There are more greases than you can shake a stick at. For this application the particular kind of grease is not all that important. All it has to do is inhibit corrosion and allow the cover to be easily removed. A general purpose grease would be fine although you may not want to use a soap based grease. While it is important to be able to easily remove the cap for the e-tiller, it will not be subjected to high pressure and heat, nor will it be submerged and subject to being washed out.

I carry a can of Red Lithium based grease that I use for general purpose. If you have some winch grease, a little of that will work as will grease used for trailer wheel bearings.

JamesG161 · Apr 1, 2023

dlochner said:
but I wouldn't use it in this application as it is too expensive

One $25 Lanocote® , one time use, goes a long way.

Old ad...

"A little Dab will do ya! "

Just like Teflon® tape, one roll last years.

Once your threads are clean, just put a dab on the male thread, wipe around and then screw them together.

Now corrosion resistant and ease of removal.

I never use Teflon® tape on PVC threads. Tef-Gel is ok.

Teflon® tape was developed to reduce Stainless Steel gnarling of threads.

Jim...

PS: I am a retired Chem Engineer from DuPont, the inventors of Teflon®
PSS: Per DuPont Safety manual, no Teflon® tape on PVC threads.
PSSS: Lithium is in short supply due to Battery use.

dlochner · Apr 1, 2023

JamesG161 said:
One $25 Lanocote® , one time use, goes a long way.

One $9 tub of red lithium grease also goes a long way.

Ralph Johnstone · Apr 1, 2023

JamesG161 said:
PSS: Per DuPont Safety manual, no Teflon® tape on PVC threads.

What's the reason for no Teflon® tape on PVC threads ?

JamesG161 · Apr 1, 2023

Ralph Johnstone said:
What's the reason for no Teflon® tape on PVC threads ?

No friction reduction needed, plus is does not seal the threads.
Jim...

cagreen75 · Apr 4, 2023

That thing looks like it has not been removed in a very long time. I suggest cleaning with a wire wheel on a grinder if you have one or a wire brush of any type. Since we are only talking about a cover that does not need to be watertight and the threads are likely already damaged by the lack of regular cleaning. Neither of those cleaning methods will damage the threads, they may even loosen the thread slightly and prevent this from happening again. There is a product that is like WD40 that goes on wet and dries without leaving any sticky residue like grease that will attract a lot of junk that will eventually bind up the threads again. WD makes a version of this that can be had at most places that sell lubricants. The original name for this stuff was called Dryslide. This stuff can also be used on sail slugs and canvas zippers.

Tally Ho · Apr 8, 2023

zinahewitt said:
Alright.
Mineral Spiritis did the trick as far as cleaning the old material off. {Old material was Lancote}.
The Brass brushes were fine on my other threads.
This thread has some corrosion on Image 0020, which is my spare tiller. So that one benefited from steel bristles.

If your threads on the boat are in bad condition or you are in a hurry. It would be better to get wire wheels as cagreen75 suggested as there is less room to move the brush in the direction of the threads. I was in no hurry.

To test which lubricant.
On half
I applied Lancote - maybe mine is old or the bay is too cold right now it was very sticky, like candle wax, they were hard to turn without the tool.
On the other half
I applied Quicksilver Marine grease - the items turned a lot more easily, it was also easier to work with and cheaper.
so
I personally like the Marine Grease better, so I cleaned the others again and put grease on all.

I ordered a Buna-N O ring splicing kit
and will try to make an o-ring for the cap which is 0019 there and the emergency tiller 0020
there is a groove there so I assume in 1975 it had an O ring.

0018 is the rudder
0019 is the Cap that covers it when you use the wheel
0020 is the emergency tiller you connect.

Yes, Lanocote can get pretty stiff when cold. I primarily use it when using SS screw into aluminum or other dissimilar metal.

Is your cover and what you thread it into the same material? If so, marine grease should be fine.

Greg

dlochner · Apr 8, 2023

Aluminum is light gray or anodized in a color.

Stainless Steel is bright and shiny and often slightly magnetic.

Bronze is, well bronze in color.

Some bronze is bright and shiny because it is chrome plated.

Turnbuckles are usually chrome plated bronze.

Studs on standing rigging are SS.

There's a good start.

jssailem · Apr 9, 2023

There are many different products being used. Lancote is popular. I am using it in the same way Greg (@Tally Ho ) mentions, a coating to reduce thread corrosion of stainless steel screws in aluminum.

I have become a convert, now using Corrosion Block (CB comes in spray and grease) when dealing with metal on metal parts that are not permanently/semi permanently fastened. I would think that the cover threads of an emergency tiller access meets that condition. You want to close the cover but want to easily and quickly access it when needed.

It was recommended to me by my rigger. He was working on the mast owned by two Boeing engineers. They told him to use CB on their mast for blocks, winches, metal on metal lubrication.

It is on my boat. The most surprising discovery was using in on an inexpensive key master lock. The lock sits exposed to the environment 365. CB has kept the chromed metal lock functioning like new for the past 4 years. My first use out of the lock packaging proved corrosion happens quickly. Within 4 weeks the rust started to appear and the lock became difficult to use. Sprayed with CB and set out, took 18 months to again start to show signs of corrosion. Now an application at the beginning of each year proves to provide protection and functionality.

This is anecdotal evidence. I am sure there are chemical composition reasons for this performance. CB is a product that I recommend.

FastOlson · Apr 9, 2023

zinahewitt said:
My sailboat a 1975 Dufour 34 is steered using the ship's wheel, I found the emergency tiller for it today.
I tried removing the lid and installing it but the threads were barely moving. I had to get my tools out.

Couple of years ago I took this whole rudder head access fitting (looks like the same part, or very similar) off of our boat. cleaned up the base and lid. Took both to a re-chroming shop (that mostly seemed to be doing work for car restorations) and for a reasonable price they gave it back looking like a mirror! I kept the original '88 O ring, but put copious grease on the threads for the lid. Never sticks, now. Ours is a chromed bronze casting, BTW.

I would recommend doing it 'right' and admiring it for another 30 years.

Thread maintenance on my sailboat

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