Tender

Oct 19, 2019
17
Hunter 38 Youngstown
My soon to be acquired Hunter 38 will be moored. I am going to need a tender to get from dock to boat and back. The mooring field is a fairly quiet anchorage (the Niagara River at the mouth to Lake Ontario). Primary requirements for the tender are stability when transferring from tender to mothership and visa versa, a calm, dry ride, and the ability to carry 3 people and gear.
I love the Whaly 270, except it's 160 lbs and $2500.
A similar boat is the Dogfish, though I'm concerned about whether it will be as dry as the Whaly. But it's only 100 lbs, and 1/2 the price of the Whaly at $1200 (shipping included).
I love that the Whaly and Dogfish will never deflate at exactly the wrong time. I love the rotomold construction. It not only seems to be indestructible, but also strong enough to hang the boat from davits (unlike, for example the West Marine 9.4).
On the other end of the spectrum, I'm also considering an inflatable, like the Zodiac C270. It seems very stable, fairly dry and the lightest of the bunch at 64 lbs.
I'd love to run a propane O/B but the smallest propane O/B is 5 hp and 60 lbs, and I would prefer a 30 lb 2.5 HP Suzuki that only comes in gas.

Eventually I may want a stowable tender, which suggests I should consider getting an inflatable now, but candidly I am concerned about punctured tubes. Until I decide to cruise to more remote locales, I anticipate the only real need for the tender will be as a water taxi from dock to boat and back. When I sail I'll leave the tender on the mooring. When I cruise I'll mostly stay at reciprocal yacht clubs where it's unlikely I'll need a tender.

So, wise ones, what thoughts for me do you have?
I'm currently leaning toward the Dogfish, but honestly I seem to change my mind daily. So a little real world experience from the readers of this forum would be helpful.
 
Jun 14, 2010
2,081
Robertson & Caine 2017 Leopard 40 CT
IMHO get an inflatable made of Hypalon (CSM fabric). It is field repairable in the unlikely event of a puncture. I have a Suzuki 2.5 and use only TruFuel in it. Never a problem from stale gas or gunked carb it is stable for at least 2 years from the time you open it. TruFuel is expensive (per gallon) but a Suzuki 2.5 sips fuel -- so a 6-pack of quart bottles (about $30 at HomeDepot located near the power garden tools) will probably last you an entire summer, and it's worth it to have reliable operation. Even if you use 2 six-packs (I doubt it) it beats having to service the carb when you need it most.
It's important to have a dinghy when you cruise. You can go ashore at beaches and dinghy docks where you can't take the mother boat, and anchor out. More peaceful and more comfortable than a dock, with the breeze always forward and blowing into your hatches. Cheaper too.

PS - I use TruFuel in my snowblower too. Also, I'd sell my 2.5. PM me if interested. I have switched to a Torqeedo
 
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Apr 8, 2010
1,942
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
Some friends of ours with a similar sized boat to yours spend over a month each summer cruising and they routinely anchor out, like 90 % of the time.
They really Love their Walker Bay with the optional floatation collar. It can float level so the the floatation is just touching the water, and so is easy to row. They have a 2 hp 4-stroke OB, also. The molded 'plastic' dinghy is also good because it resists damage from rocks and oyster shells that might puncture or damage an inflatable.
 
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capta

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Jun 4, 2009
4,766
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
I have used inflatables, NOT RIBs since the early '70s and would never have a RIB or a hard dink. Right now we have a Zodiac Mark II Classic that moves well on our 3.5 hp emergency motor. OF course it does move quite a bit better with the 15 hp Johnson (not suggesting this set up for you, only saying a bigger boat does OK with a 3.5).
An inflatable does no damage alongside your boat, even without fenders and can be easily hipped up to use should your motor fail. As you mentioned, it can be stowed for transportation or security.
Lastly, I've never seen any hard dinghy with anything like the stability of an inflatable, and having several air filled chambers, the inflatable will stay afloat even with one holed.
 
Feb 21, 2013
4,638
Hunter 46 Point Richmond, CA
Ditto on inflatable. I power it with a Torqeedo with long life 915wH battery that way I do not have to carry a gas can, it minimizes maintenance, is waterproof and always starts.
 
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Jan 11, 2014
11,321
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
What are other sailors using at Youngstown?

The Niagara River is noted for having some current, will the motor be able to push the dinghy through the current in the spring and fall?
 
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Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
I've had several dinghys over the years, from 6 foot hard ones, to 12'6" inflatables. I now have my second Achilles 7-6 roll up. My favorite by far.
beach2.jpg
 
Jul 27, 2011
4,988
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
Welcome to the Forum!

I honestly would not worry too much about puncturing an inflatable chamber if your principal use is dock to mooring and back. True, they can and sometimes do develop small puncture leaks that are an annoyance. Only once in more than 25 yr of boating have I punctured a chamber to the point of it almost completely deflating with me in the boat:yikes::yikes:. I was doing something stupid. Trying to get off the dink onto riprap lined with broken oyster shells. The dink will stay “afloat” on the other chambers, but you’re not going to be going anywhere fast or in comfort a minute or two after a significant puncture. You might even “lose” some of the payload, etc. So take any “stays afloat” comments with a few extra grains of salt.:eek:

But to your question. Honestly, there are so many used dinks up for sale at any one time, it seems you might be able to try a couple of types and then resell before committing to a comparatively costly new one, etc. Inflatables can carry heavy loads with stability. However, slow moving (i.e., not planing) inflatables using outboard power can get the crew wet even in light chop when going against the wind or across it; whereas, the hard shell does much less so as those bows ride higher. So, IMHO a hard shell is better for dryness when using a low hp outboard. It’ll also move a bit faster. They are generally rockier getting on and off, so require more balance, timing, and agility, etc., than an inflatable does. But I don’t know about the models you mention. Hard shells & RIBs are much more trouble for sailboats of your size to take along b/c they are not as easily transported or stowed—a whole other area of discussion (argumentation)—which leads to towing issues and/or installation of lifts. Always a compromise :wink3:.
 
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ToddS

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Sep 11, 2017
248
Beneteau 373 Cape Cod
My opinions differ from many others stated here... but that only helps support the idea that there is no "right answer". Nobody is "wrong" about which dingy is best... but different locations, habits, tolerances, all lead to different construction preferences. I've owned Achilles, West Marine Brand, and Defender Brand dinghies, all in the 9-10ish foot range. I've done Hypalon on a few boats in the past, and recently stepped down to PVC. My thinking? I seem to puncture/chafe/damage boats and they're totally destroyed in short enough timeframes that the extra longevity of Hypalon never gets a chance to pay off. My last boat, had probably 10 patches on it to stop air leaks, pin holes, and chafed spots on the Hypalon and it was only 8 years old. Sure, the UV light wasn't hurting it, but so many times it was punctured/damaged while tied up at a dinghy dock. My boat is almost always tied at crowded dinghy docks, and despite my best efforts, I would often return to it only to find that it sat for a week at a time against someone's sharp propeller, or an old fiberglass dinghy with a rough gunwale, or the dock hardware itself. Even the 3-strand nylon painter itself can get fouled across the inflatable tubes, and chafe through if the wind shifts the wrong way in your absence. Why pay for 20 years of U.V. resistance if the boat is going to die of other causes way before that. The jury is still out on my new PVC boat, (year 1 was excellent, but that's only a baby) but it only cost me 1/2 as much, so it only has to last 1/2 as long to pay off for me. I also live in Massachusetts, where we don't have the same U.V. concerns I would have if I lived somewhere more tropical. I get that. Also, I prefer RIBS to fully-inflatables, but understand that impacts cost, weight, and ease of stowing on deck, all in very negative ways. That being said, the stability, durability of the bottom, ease of rowing, motoring performance, and ease of towing all seem to be much better than the old plywood-floor inflatable. If I were doing long distance cruising, I'd want something more easily stowed... but for my sailing (most destination are a few hours in fairly protected waters) I find towing to be extremely palatable. I lift the boat out of the water only on the first and very last days of the season for storage.
Incidentally, I ALSO own an 8' Walker Bay dinghy... and love it... but use it as a sailing toy, not for practical transportation of people to and from a dock. Mine is without the flotation tube, and with a sail kit... light weight... virtually indestructible... but without the tube, it's way too tippy to be practical... even for 2 people, never mind 3.
 
Oct 24, 2010
2,405
Hunter 30 Everett, WA
We use an old fiberglass dink. It's an 8-foot Livingston (pretty stable, rows well, handles 3 people easily, and is fine with our little 2 horse motor). We've had several different models and even towed a 15-foot canoe over the years. The reason we switched from an inflatable is the Admiral was tired of getting wet and had a hard time with her bad knees sitting down low. We carry the Livingston on edge across the transom when cruising which eliminates the use of the stern boarding ladder. In event of an emergency, we'd need to lower the dink (untie 3 lines) to access the ladder. This summer I tried a plastic kayak stowed on deck. Not my best decision. It's really hard to board without accidentally going for a swim. I too am still looking for the perfect answer. Our small Hunter 30 doesn't make it any easier.

Ken
 

NM

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Mar 14, 2009
10
O’Day 34 6225 Milwaukee, WI
Don’t forget lugging a heavy dinghy from storage rack to launch site - you’ll wish for rollers/wheels especially at that weight. Our 70 pound dinghy with 8 hp otb on wheels is manageable but just..
 
Jul 26, 2009
291
. . .
How bad are the zebra muscles these days? Last time I was on the St. Lawrence they had a pretty sharp edge.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,321
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
How bad are the zebra muscles these days? Last time I was on the St. Lawrence they had a pretty sharp edge.
Depends where you are. Oswego has a lot of Zebra mussels. Twelve miles west in Little Sodus Bay they are not a big issue. Regardless of where the zebra mussels are, their shells are sharp. Not something you want to step on in bare feet.
 
Oct 19, 2019
17
Hunter 38 Youngstown
Thank you for all the replies. Every boat is a compromise. It's driving me crazy but I continuously change my mind- hard dinghy one day, inflatable next, air floor inflatable the next, slat floor inflatable the next...
I've sailed all my life but have zero real world experience with dinghies.
I live in Idaho, but will keep the boat on the Niagara River in NY, and I want to be able to go from mooring to shore and back on my hours, rather than be confined to the launch's hours. So I need a dink that is stable getting on/off the boat/dock, a dink that carries say, 3 people and their junk, and a dry ride.
I want light weight too. I'm planning on using a 2.5 HP Suzuki because it only weighs 29 lbs. I don't need to go fast or far.

My current favorite is a Zodiac Cadet C270 Aero. It has an air floor, weighs 68 lbs and has 17" tubes. Do fatter tubes equal more stability and a drier ride?
I was about to pull the trigger on Zodiac Cadet C270 (slat floor), or a similar offering from West Marine, but then read a forum post from a guy who complained that that type of floor made getting on/off the dink tricky- like stepping on a wet banana, he said.

So here are my questions.
Is the aero floor likely to be significantly more stable than the slat floor when getting on/off the dink?
Is a 17" tube likely to be a dry ride in a quiet harbor? The Niagara River rarely gets too riled, as best I recall, though it's been a few decades since I spent much time in that anchorage.
I am planning on mounting dingy wheels on the transom because I am paranoid about dragging the boat on the hard and puncturing the tubes. Good idea? The BeachMaster removable wheels look perfect to me.

Thanks to all thoughtful replies.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,321
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Generally the bigger the tubes, the dryer the ride.

High pressure air floors are pretty stable, not as stable as a RIB, more stable than slats.

Take a look at Defender for Inflatables, they often have good prices, even after paying for shipping. You won't escape sales tax because you will need to pay the sales tax to register the boat.
 
Jul 27, 2011
4,988
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
So, I’ve owned and used the types you mention plus some. A Zodiac Cadet 6.5 ft with the plastic slats (roll up), Achilles 8.5 &10.5 ft with air floors, plus a NordAtlantic 10 ft with wooden (plywood) floorboards & aluminum stringers, and now an OceanAir 9.5 ft aluminum RIB. I think the NordAtlantics have passed into the “what was” and now floorboards are of aluminum in contemporary models at a minimum of 12 ft or so. Not one on your list.

The most “stable” model when standing was the NordAtlantic (floorboard) in that it did not “rock” and it firmly supported the standing weight of the passengers. RIBs support standing weight best in the double hull models but they “rock,”—i.e., a little tippy getting in and out. The slat (roll-up) boats do support standing weight, but the bottom sags some, not being very thick under the slats. That brings us to air floors.They support standing weight better than slats, but depress some such that you really could not “walk“ on them without losing balance. They do not rock much, so are stable there.

As to dryness, it all depends on the water state. Since you will not be planing, you‘re not going to get spray from the boat pounding. On windless, placid, water they’re all dry. On light chop against the wind the RIBs will be the driest; the roll-ups the wettest (they flex the most). The air floors & floorboards in the middle toward the RIB. BUT, if you are not planing the boats, each of them could receive “splash” over the bow or sides that will soak into the pants if sitting on the tubes. Yes, larger diameter tubes are likely better, but with enough wind and chop they’re all pretty wet going into it. So, wear bibs and you’re good there. I recommend the aero models (air floors) for the best compromise, as you say.

To save room in the boat, equip the crew with inflatable PFDs. But, you have to be wearing them while in the boat or the CG does not count them as PFDs.

As for wheels, that depends on what you are going to do. Wheels on the transom allow you to beach the boat w/o having to pull-up the outboard going in. If landing in surf this is a major benefit to prevent the boat from coming broadside to the incoming waves, however small, and maybe even tumbling (rolling) if they are “large.” Remember, as soon as the OB comes up you lose steerage unless you are ready to go with oars right away, and can row effectively. They are only secondarily used to roll the dink up the beach, usually the heavy ones that two adults cannot lift and carry up. An 8.5-ft inflatable dink with a 30# OB will weigh about 100#. Two adults should be able to lift that load long enough to move it up the beach a ways. If you are in a place with no tides, then you don’t even have to move it very far. Maybe one boat length. So, if you are NOT landing in surf and in a place where there are no tides, the wheels IMHO are an unnecessary expense and require unnecessary additional effort.
 
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NM

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Mar 14, 2009
10
O’Day 34 6225 Milwaukee, WI
How about re-boarding from the water? Anyone have experience with 15” vs 17” tubes?
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,400
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
I've had inflatables for 20 years and never had a puncture. I'm sure you can, but with some care, it should not be a big fear.

Boarding is largely about thinking about what you are doing. How is the dinghy secured? Where is your CG, and are you pushing down, not out? Where does your weight need to be in the dinghy to prevent tipping (dead center in a kayak, on the tube is OK on some inflatables, rigid boats vary). I have little more trouble with a kayak than an inflatable, but that is because I consider the balance. I've seen more people fall boarding stable dinghies than kayaks. They weren't thinking.