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Temporary Plug for Thru Hull Fitting

Oct 22, 2014
13,136
CAL 35 Cruiser moored EVERETT WA
it's worse on my end.
I bet it is.
Glueing or epoxy the fitting is destined to fail. And I do not want a holding tanks full of holding effluent to fail in my boat.

@Peggie Hall HeadMistress speaks positive about Ronco tanks. They will give you the tanks and the fittings you choose.

She also posted this in a query by another boater.
if Ronco doesn't have a tank that'll fit the space, ... Triple M Plastics in Maine Triple 'M' Plastics » Custom Fabrication makes TOP quality custom tanks A bit more expensive than rotomolded PE, but everyone who's gotten a tank from them raves about 'em.
 
Jan 10, 2016
126
Islander Wayfarer 37 Sloop Key West
Here it is, Jabsco. Doubt I can buy just the cap so I might have to make my own until I can cut out for a new larger tank.

jabscocrap.jpg
 
Dec 2, 1997
7,788
- - LIttle Rock
Sorry to stink up the forum but believe me, it's worse on my end.
After 30 years in marine sanitation, I'm used to it...and I'll bet I've smelled worse.

Jim, check out the Raritan replacement that (I think) let’s you keep the bowl, but gives you a much better built pump unit. Or just replace the entire thing with a Raritan unit. We did that and have been very happy with the Raritan. Pretty sure Peggy would r3commend doing that.
Definitely! The Raritan PH SuperFlush is the current version of their PHII, which has been the top rated manual toilet since Raritan introduced it in 1983. I've only been able to find one retailer who has the "conversion" (everything but the bowl, seat and lid) and their price is very reasonable: Hopkins Carter Raritan PH Super Flush Conversion Kit

Vented loops can be that low on a powerboat because powerboats don't heel, but to put them the required 6-8" above waterline on a sailboat AT ANY ANGLE OF HEEL, not just when the boat is at rest, puts 'em 2-3 FEET above the bowl. And he's gonna need one in the intake too...and it also needs to be just as high. That one does not go between thru-hull and the pump...it needs to be between the pump and bowl, which requires replacing the short piece of hose the toilet mfr uses with two that are long enough to connect to a vented loop where it belongs. (see attached photos)

Ronco Plastics is your best source for a tank. They make TOP quality thick-walled water and waste tanks for a very reasonable price and have more than 400 shapes and sizes, over 100 of which are non-rectangular, and they install fittings in the sizes and locations specified by the customer when they make the tank. There are retailers who sell Ronco tanks, but Ronco sells direct for a much lower price...and they're great to work with. their marine tanks catalog is hereRonco Plastics marine Tanks So many people have complained that it's so much harder to search than their previous catalog that they put it back online too Ronco Plastics old marine catalog

et me say right here that this is a low budget project until we have all systems working and decide whether the boat is worth putting any real money into.
With that in mind I have a suggestion: pull the toilet, tank and all the related plumbing out...buy a portapotty to use (about $50 at Walmart) IF you can even be on the boat long enough each time you're aboard to need toilet facilities while you figure out what it's gonna cost to take care of everything else on the boat that needs to be repaired/replaced and get the boat cleaned up. Then you can decide whether it's worth putting any real money into...if not, install a 5 gal. "MSD" portapotty (marine portapotty that has the fittings for pumpout line and vent line and sell it as-is.

Btw...what is this boat and how big is it?

--Peggie

.intake and discharge vented loops.jpg
 
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Jan 10, 2016
126
Islander Wayfarer 37 Sloop Key West
...and I'll bet I've smelled worse.
I'll bet you have Peggy.
I didn't see the rest of your response right away until I saw that "expand" note.
The only option I really want to try is to patch or rebuild the tank top if I can't buy just the top. The boat will be at it's mooring for the coming months as a liveaboard.
The boat is a 1967 Islander Wayfarer 37 like my avatar/pic
So tomorrow, JB Weld? What have I got to lose.
I tried to find a website or phone number for Jabsco but no luck. Any idea?
 
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Aug 12, 2020
41
Lancer 36 Pago Pago
Maybe try plastic welding with a soldering iron and some HDPE plastic as filler....worked for me when I had to fill a bullet hole in a water tank.
 
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Likes: Jim Hawkins
Dec 2, 1997
7,788
- - LIttle Rock
Paul Campagna is Jabsco's toilet guru...
Paul.campagna@xyleminc.com
Direct line: 978.282.5246

I recently came across the name of another person at Jabsco who may be another sanitation systems tech: David Mendoza whose direct line is 949-608-3934

If the tank on the boat is the same one in your photo, it only holds 6 gallons. The average adult uses the toilet 5x/24 hrs...the average flush volume from a manual toilet is .6 gal including waste. Even if he'll be away from the boat all day, that typically means 3 flushes/day onboard. So he'd better be prepared to pump out at least every 3 days.
And then there's the matter of fresh water...he has to be able to at least be able to wash his face and brush his teeth even if his uses marina facilities to shower, which may be a real challenge if he's on a mooring. So what shape is the fresh water tank, plumbing and pump in?

--Peggie
 
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Jan 10, 2016
126
Islander Wayfarer 37 Sloop Key West
Great, thanks for the contact info Peggy.

The boat is moored in Key West bight and gets pumped out weekly. She, will use the head once, maybe twice a day only for serious business and 6 gallons will suffice between pump-outs. The owner is familiar with the limits of a small tank after using a Thetford 5 gal MSD, (something I bought years ago on your recommendation for another boat, and thank you very much for that). The fresh water is not a problem. The owner has plans to haul out sometime this winter for a bottom job and to have all the through hull fittings replaced. At that time the waste tank will be replaced with as large a tank as possible, 20 gallons minimum.
My latest idea is to remove the tank lid and add a simple, plastic through-hull fitting in the hole where the old fitting broke, and then reinstall the lid and connect the hose. This boat's maintenance was horribly neglected and the walls of the old hoses and fittings were lined with deposits to the extent her little (gloved) finger would not fit. The new head is in and new hoses and loop vent installed up to the last connection to the tank. All I have to do is make that one last connection and performance will be like night and day.
Thanks again Peggy for the contact info. I will try to score a new lid from Jabsco but lacking that I will one way or the other succeed.
 
Jan 10, 2016
126
Islander Wayfarer 37 Sloop Key West
So friends, after cleaning the piece of fitting that came loose from the tank I came to the realization that this fitting did not break, rather it was the connection that failed. You can see in the picture the smooth, finished edge leading me to believe this fitting was attached to the tank with some sort of adhesive. Now, all I have to do is find the right adhesive.

fit.jpgfit2.jpgfit3.jpg
 
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Jan 10, 2016
126
Islander Wayfarer 37 Sloop Key West
Well that job is done. Made some changes for better performance.
1603494172808.png

#1 marks the spot where waste goes through the bulkhead behind the toilet and into a forward compartment.
1603494310905.png

Here is the other side of #1 in the forward compartment. In order for the hose to make the needed bends to get to the tank this hose was originally over 6' long and going through the hole on the upper right that looks like it was cut by an ax murderer. I drilled a new hole higher up and shortened the hose by over 3'. Below is the macerator pump sloppily just laying against the hull. That will be changed.
1603494659358.png

And finally, here is where the hose continues from the forward compartment and instead of looping up and down I added a simple elbow to go right into the tank fitting. Notice the JB Weld. On the other side of the partition on the right is the toilet where our journey began.
 
Dec 2, 1997
7,788
- - LIttle Rock
Only one thing left to do: install a vented loop in the toilet INTAKE. You'll see where it has to go in the drawing on p.3 of the Jabsco Twist & Lock owners manual Jabsco Manual Twist & Lock owners manual and it needs to be at least 6-8" above waterline AT MAX HEEL, not just when the boat's at rest..which puts it about 2-3' above the bowl on most sailboats That requires replacing the short piece of hose that toilet mfrs use to connect the pump to the bowl with two lengths of 3/4" sanitation hose long enough to put the loop where it--and any discharge loop--has to go (see attached photo for the most common location)...the smaller loop is the intake. The discharge vented loop in your photo is way too low, but a discharge vented loop is only needed if you flush directly overboard (only legal when at sea beyond 3 miles), which is unlikely in this instance so it's really just some unnecessary plumbing that may or may not cause problems if solids flushes aren't followed with enough water to rinse it out.

. intake and discharge vented loops.jpg

--Peggie
 
Jan 10, 2016
126
Islander Wayfarer 37 Sloop Key West
Yes! Thank you Peggy. That is where this thread began, my worries over taking on water. By the way, where do you weigh in on fresh water flush vs seawater? Or maybe, as I've read, use seawater usually, but every once in a while, or when the head won't be used for awhile, give it a good flush with fresh?
 
Dec 2, 1997
7,788
- - LIttle Rock
See my reply to the thread "Can't Connect Hose to Seacock" directly above yours in this same forum. The two threads are so close together that it doesn't make any sense to repeat the same suggestion here.

--Peggie