I am wondering about the logistics for maintaining teak trim. I am thinking of switching from varnish to oil, which requires removing and sanding off the current varnish. Do most of you do this with the boat in the water or do you take it out to do this? Do you need a certain amount of time with dry weather? I would love to hear your thoughts on this and any other considerations. I have a teak rub rail and companion way that I will be working on. Cheers!
Teak upkeep
- Thread starter douglasd
- Start date
I would remove everything that can be removed and take it home for refinishing. That said, for me, it would depend on how easily removed. I like exposed screw heads for easier maintenance. I would have to be exceptionally motivated to remove anything with screws hidden by bungs. It seems like a lot of work to sand off varnish to bare wood. Personally, I would avoid that by prepping for varnish recoat. Long term, I agree that oil would probably be the more satisfying finish. It's really a personal decision based on too many variables to generalize. It sounds like you are talking primarily about exterior brightwork. Most of the folks in our marina typically are busy with these tasks in the late spring with boat in the water, before the temps get too hot. I've seen mostly varnish and/of cetol. I don't notice any favoring oil. Obviously, the dryer the weather the better, but I don't notice anybody getting awfully concerned about doing the work in the spring when we have unsettled weather.
Cape Dorys in our area seem to get special attention from their owners. I notice quite a few that have beautiful brightwork. I think varnish is the most common treatment. Constant care and maintenance is the key.
In the past we’ve used Cetol and Semco, and always done all the work in the water. My preference is to leave the wood in place as the screws on ours were covered by bungs, and I wouldn’t want to disturb their bedding anyway. Like Scott said it’s a good project for spring days, especially days after cold fronts come through when it’s dry and sunny but too windy to go out sailing.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,251
Calm mornings before 10AM on dry days are best. Waiting till the sun is at it’s peak will have the varnish solvents flashing off before it has the opportunity to level.
Varnish can be touched up. I prefer the satin finish to a high gloss.
Varnish can be touched up. I prefer the satin finish to a high gloss.
We’ve been using oil for many years with great results. It greys out over the winter, even under the shrink wrap.
In the Spring, teak cleaner and a light sanding brings it back. Once dry, a couple of light coats of oil lasts for the season.
In the Spring, teak cleaner and a light sanding brings it back. Once dry, a couple of light coats of oil lasts for the season.
I recently tool home the companion way doors and refinished them followed by 3 coats Cetol. I got most of my information from a few articles in Practical Sailor on teak restoration and repeated updates on how different treatments survived the test of time. I wanted to do the research considering the time investment to do it right.
How to Restore Teak Wood on Boats - Practical Sailor
Teak Treatments: Round Three - Practical Sailor
Hopefully they'll help you.
How to Restore Teak Wood on Boats - Practical Sailor
Teak Treatments: Round Three - Practical Sailor
Hopefully they'll help you.
I have been systematically getting rid of varnished surfaces on our boat. It looks good when pristine, but looks shabby when it starts to peel and is kind of a pain to restore if you let it go too long. With oil, we do a deep clean in the spring and usually one or two other light cleans throughout the season. We just do a bit of oil here and there as it occurs to us. Surfaces we walk on don't get oiled.
A previous owner covered all of our toe rails and some other previously beautiful wood with some stain/sealant combination that just completely took away the natural beauty of the wood grain, giving it the appearance of simulated wood grain panelling from the '70s. Then, they varnished over that ... I guess ... and eventually let that go.
Before:
After a bunch of sanding, scraping, scrubbing, and oiling:
The lighting in the photo isn't great, but the wood maintains a nice satin sheen. It is still definitely aged wood, but at least it no longer looks neglected and it only takes maybe an hour per year to maintain.
A previous owner covered all of our toe rails and some other previously beautiful wood with some stain/sealant combination that just completely took away the natural beauty of the wood grain, giving it the appearance of simulated wood grain panelling from the '70s. Then, they varnished over that ... I guess ... and eventually let that go.
Before:
After a bunch of sanding, scraping, scrubbing, and oiling:
The lighting in the photo isn't great, but the wood maintains a nice satin sheen. It is still definitely aged wood, but at least it no longer looks neglected and it only takes maybe an hour per year to maintain.