I am wondering about the logistics for maintaining teak trim. I am thinking of switching from varnish to oil, which requires removing and sanding off the current varnish. Do most of you do this with the boat in the water or do you take it out to do this? Do you need a certain amount of time with dry weather? I would love to hear your thoughts on this and any other considerations. I have a teak rub rail and companion way that I will be working on. Cheers!
Teak upkeep
- Thread starter douglasd
- Start date
I would remove everything that can be removed and take it home for refinishing. That said, for me, it would depend on how easily removed. I like exposed screw heads for easier maintenance. I would have to be exceptionally motivated to remove anything with screws hidden by bungs. It seems like a lot of work to sand off varnish to bare wood. Personally, I would avoid that by prepping for varnish recoat. Long term, I agree that oil would probably be the more satisfying finish. It's really a personal decision based on too many variables to generalize. It sounds like you are talking primarily about exterior brightwork. Most of the folks in our marina typically are busy with these tasks in the late spring with boat in the water, before the temps get too hot. I've seen mostly varnish and/of cetol. I don't notice any favoring oil. Obviously, the dryer the weather the better, but I don't notice anybody getting awfully concerned about doing the work in the spring when we have unsettled weather.
Cape Dorys in our area seem to get special attention from their owners. I notice quite a few that have beautiful brightwork. I think varnish is the most common treatment. Constant care and maintenance is the key.
In the past we’ve used Cetol and Semco, and always done all the work in the water. My preference is to leave the wood in place as the screws on ours were covered by bungs, and I wouldn’t want to disturb their bedding anyway. Like Scott said it’s a good project for spring days, especially days after cold fronts come through when it’s dry and sunny but too windy to go out sailing.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,558
We’ve been using oil for many years with great results. It greys out over the winter, even under the shrink wrap.
In the Spring, teak cleaner and a light sanding brings it back. Once dry, a couple of light coats of oil lasts for the season.
In the Spring, teak cleaner and a light sanding brings it back. Once dry, a couple of light coats of oil lasts for the season.
I recently tool home the companion way doors and refinished them followed by 3 coats Cetol. I got most of my information from a few articles in Practical Sailor on teak restoration and repeated updates on how different treatments survived the test of time. I wanted to do the research considering the time investment to do it right.
How to Restore Teak Wood on Boats - Practical Sailor
Teak Treatments: Round Three - Practical Sailor
Hopefully they'll help you.
How to Restore Teak Wood on Boats - Practical Sailor
Teak Treatments: Round Three - Practical Sailor
Hopefully they'll help you.
I have been systematically getting rid of varnished surfaces on our boat. It looks good when pristine, but looks shabby when it starts to peel and is kind of a pain to restore if you let it go too long. With oil, we do a deep clean in the spring and usually one or two other light cleans throughout the season. We just do a bit of oil here and there as it occurs to us. Surfaces we walk on don't get oiled.
A previous owner covered all of our toe rails and some other previously beautiful wood with some stain/sealant combination that just completely took away the natural beauty of the wood grain, giving it the appearance of simulated wood grain panelling from the '70s. Then, they varnished over that ... I guess ... and eventually let that go.
Before:
After a bunch of sanding, scraping, scrubbing, and oiling:
The lighting in the photo isn't great, but the wood maintains a nice satin sheen. It is still definitely aged wood, but at least it no longer looks neglected and it only takes maybe an hour per year to maintain.
A previous owner covered all of our toe rails and some other previously beautiful wood with some stain/sealant combination that just completely took away the natural beauty of the wood grain, giving it the appearance of simulated wood grain panelling from the '70s. Then, they varnished over that ... I guess ... and eventually let that go.
Before:
After a bunch of sanding, scraping, scrubbing, and oiling:
The lighting in the photo isn't great, but the wood maintains a nice satin sheen. It is still definitely aged wood, but at least it no longer looks neglected and it only takes maybe an hour per year to maintain.
My Beneteau 311 has (with the exception of the inserts in the cockpit) not too much teak, so I've done a careful job on the companionway trim and the hand rails with 3 coats Cetol Natural Teak + 3 coats Cetol Gloss.
It's starting to show some age, so before it gets too far and I tackle it, I'd love to know what folks here do in such a situation. In the past I've sanded the small area to at least get the gloss off and show a little bare wood, then NT + gloss.
Suggestions? I don't want to screw up my previous nice job
.
It's starting to show some age, so before it gets too far and I tackle it, I'd love to know what folks here do in such a situation. In the past I've sanded the small area to at least get the gloss off and show a little bare wood, then NT + gloss.
Suggestions? I don't want to screw up my previous nice job
.Attachments
Think you are on correct track. Scrub it well & dry. Very light sanding to remove gloss & recoat. I usually get 3-4 years before recoat is necessary. I use Semco on teak seating surfaces.Suggestions? I don't want to screw up my previous nice job
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First rule: Brake no rules from this point forward.
Do what it says on the back of the can and it will do what it says on the front of the can and do a search for the paint manufacturer's technical data sheet for more information.
If you still have questions, just call them.
Temperature, humidity, add a direct sunlight. I use a paint scraper on the inside corner. None of it last very long outside.
Do what it says on the back of the can and it will do what it says on the front of the can and do a search for the paint manufacturer's technical data sheet for more information.
If you still have questions, just call them.
Temperature, humidity, add a direct sunlight. I use a paint scraper on the inside corner. None of it last very long outside.
A bit late to this, but Ralph Johnstone just posted this on another forum on his long lasting varnish finish:
Hunter stern and bow seats
Stern and bow seats from a 1994 Hunter 37.5. These probably fit other Hunters from that generation. The teak has been removed and stripped on all sides and is ready for oil or varnish. I reattached the teak strips for the photos. We were about to varnish the wood when we decided to go a...
forums.sailboatowners.com
To fine tune your finishing process.
Keep a log each time you paint of your finishing process of:
1. Viscosity, with a #4 ford viscosity cup in seconds
(This is specified by manufacturer). In the manufacturer's technical data sheet (TDS), also known as a Product Data Sheet (PDS), It is a document that details the composition, physical properties, and proper application of a specific paint product.
2. It's thickness, with a wet film thickness gauge. to achieve a consistency in the desired thickness. Some finishes have a maximum build. You will need to know the percentage of solids by volume of paint after it has dried. 33% solids by volume at 4 mils thick wet, will be 1.33 mils dried. Three coats will be 4 mill after drying.
(Finished thickness as specified by manufacturer)
3. The humidity as well as room temperature and the paint or finish temperature.
(It would be best to stay with what is specified by manufacturer)
4. Time of day and was it sunny cloudy. UV light helps in the drying process.
5. A photo of the finished product.
6. And your mood for the next three days after finishing.
Your paint respirator mask has no gauge on it to tell you if it is working or not. Your brain does. If you smell paint it is not working and will cause damage to your health.
Keep a log each time you paint of your finishing process of:
1. Viscosity, with a #4 ford viscosity cup in seconds
(This is specified by manufacturer). In the manufacturer's technical data sheet (TDS), also known as a Product Data Sheet (PDS), It is a document that details the composition, physical properties, and proper application of a specific paint product.
2. It's thickness, with a wet film thickness gauge. to achieve a consistency in the desired thickness. Some finishes have a maximum build. You will need to know the percentage of solids by volume of paint after it has dried. 33% solids by volume at 4 mils thick wet, will be 1.33 mils dried. Three coats will be 4 mill after drying.
(Finished thickness as specified by manufacturer)
3. The humidity as well as room temperature and the paint or finish temperature.
(It would be best to stay with what is specified by manufacturer)
4. Time of day and was it sunny cloudy. UV light helps in the drying process.
5. A photo of the finished product.
6. And your mood for the next three days after finishing.
Your paint respirator mask has no gauge on it to tell you if it is working or not. Your brain does. If you smell paint it is not working and will cause damage to your health.
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This is an excellent post! First time I'm seeing this kind of excellent guidance on a sailing forum....
dj
I hope it helps.
Here is one of my design and build.
The Solid Walnut Armoire I design and built in Victorian revival style.
A story in wood of the Arthurian myth as told by Geoffrey of Monmouth's Historia regum Britanniae, written between 1135 and 1139 and others.
The lower section is about Merlin’s encounter with Uther Pendragon the building of a castle and Arthur father Askanar. There were two hidden dragon eggs under mountain were it was to be built.
Excalibur is the sword that divides the doors and extends into the lower sections connection the two story of Arthur and Merlin.
The upper section is about Arthur Camelot, as you look at each carving you can attribute them to Arthur story. The handle are dogwood flowers for the christ, shields are for the Knights of the Round Table, columns are fore the Camelot, Excalibur connect the two stories together with the story of sword and the stone, on the hilt of Excalibur is a lions head is for Arthur, a top of that is a clock for the round table its self, and the finials are the for the grails and the search of the purer of heart.
Picture was taken before it was completely finished.. I used Waterlox but I normally used a conversion varnish that was used by well-known builder of a grand piano company
Here is one of my design and build.
The Solid Walnut Armoire I design and built in Victorian revival style.
A story in wood of the Arthurian myth as told by Geoffrey of Monmouth's Historia regum Britanniae, written between 1135 and 1139 and others.
The lower section is about Merlin’s encounter with Uther Pendragon the building of a castle and Arthur father Askanar. There were two hidden dragon eggs under mountain were it was to be built.
Excalibur is the sword that divides the doors and extends into the lower sections connection the two story of Arthur and Merlin.
The upper section is about Arthur Camelot, as you look at each carving you can attribute them to Arthur story. The handle are dogwood flowers for the christ, shields are for the Knights of the Round Table, columns are fore the Camelot, Excalibur connect the two stories together with the story of sword and the stone, on the hilt of Excalibur is a lions head is for Arthur, a top of that is a clock for the round table its self, and the finials are the for the grails and the search of the purer of heart.
Picture was taken before it was completely finished.. I used Waterlox but I normally used a conversion varnish that was used by well-known builder of a grand piano company