I'm restoring an old Trinka 10. The original teak floorboards were oiled, but I'm tempted to varnish them, just because I like the looks of varnish better. I'm thinking I'll do a satin final coat with non-skid texture if I varnish. What do you folk think?
Teak oil or varnish for dinghy floor boards?
- Thread starter JBP-PA
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I'd have to get some oil, I don't normally use it. Probably have some 'boiled' linseed oil around.
Get the tung oil. Unlike varnish, it has a LONG shelf life, even opened. Any hardware store and Amazon.
Tung oil is considerably more water resistant than linseed oil and thus preferred for outdoor applications. Also cutting boards. I have also converted to tung oil for most indoor stuff as well because it does not yellow as much as linseed oil. It is thicker than linseed oil, so you do need to thin it a bit. I only use linseed oil on the occasional lathe project where I want the color change.
Goggle it, and go deeper than the quick AI answer (which appears to be influenced by advertisers, based on biased answers to many questions -- no big surprise there -- time to upgrade your internet filters). It is a component in most teak oil blends (they can be anything), but teak oil is blended for ease of use and quicker drying as more than durability. For a dinghy floor, durability is more important. Inside the cabin different priorities may rein. Browse woodworking sites with experienced contributors.
But I learn lots from forums related to other crafts. We boat guys tend to be jack of all trades and master of none. Woodworkers. Machinists. Electricians. Mechanics. Welders. Composite technicians.
Linseed oil ends up turning teak pretty much black after its initial shine wears off. I gave our teak outdoor table & chairs a dose thinking it would improve the greying and it did for about two weeks. Then...yuck. Black is ok for workboats or Viking longboats but not for floorboards in a nice dinghy. I ended up having to fix it with Oxalic Acid in a multi-hour scrubbing exercise.
When I built my dory I prepared a gallon of "boat soup" under the direction of Grand Canyon doryman Brad Dimock of Fretwater Boatworks. Mix 1/3 varnish, 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 turpentine (NOT thinner). A dolllop of japan drier and a dash of pine tar for fragrance. No teak aboard the dory, so your mileage may vary. The dory has ash for the gunwales, cherry for the bow and transom trim, Port Orford cedar frames and hydrotek marine plywood. Everything looks and smells wonderful. I enjoy the annual ritual of recoating everything. Wipe it on. Wipe it off. Let it dry. Go boating.
Sailboats are not my only love.
Sailboats are not my only love.
If you intend for your Trinka to be a showpiece, then by all means put in two or three weeks of hard work varnishing her floorboards.
In my experience, plain teak floorboards are the safest, other than painted with a light dusting of non-skid, which would be a grave sin against the gods of teak, indeed.
In my experience, plain teak floorboards are the safest, other than painted with a light dusting of non-skid, which would be a grave sin against the gods of teak, indeed.
In the spring, it'll be a showpiece for at least several hours. Then we are going to use it until it's all beat up again. That's what boats are for. Three weeks of varnishing in the middle of winter is a pleasant distraction. I'm worried about the traction too, but I've not decided yet.
I've used a light sprinkle of crushed walnut shells as a non-skid several times. Works well as a non-skid, but can easily be sanded off to refinish the wood again. Choose the grit, there are plenty, and it should be cheap.
Perhaps it is a good thing you didn't name her "The" Wild Child. Each of your children would wonder if it was them.
She certainly is a beauty. What does she weigh? Have you taken her out on any waters other than rivers?
The first boat I built was a dory, in my high school wood shop class. I cast the bronze rowlocks, a bronze bow fitting and cleats aft, in the metal shop class. I think making the oars was the most rewarding part of the whole thing.
Apologies to the OP for the thread hijack.
She weighs 825 lbs empty. She can carry a lot. She was designed as a Grand Canyon freighter.
We didn't cast the oarlocks, but we cast everything else.
My partner Claire designed and tooled the breasthook.
It was a once in a lifetime opportunity. I don't think I have another build in me.
The "I" in Wild Child was taken from my son's footprints as a baby. The handprints on the stern are taken from my daughter's at age 4. They know who the boat is named after. It's both of them.
She weighs 825 lbs empty. She can carry a lot. She was designed as a Grand Canyon freighter.
We didn't cast the oarlocks, but we cast everything else.
My partner Claire designed and tooled the breasthook.
It was a once in a lifetime opportunity. I don't think I have another build in me.
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I can confirm that a layer of the 40-60 grit is an excellent non-skid surface, but a heavy coating would completely cover the teak. I've heard of sprinking coarse salt onto the wet varnish. Rinse it off after it dries. I haven't tried it though.
I have used salted varnish and paint many times. I really like it. Use a coarse grinder, generously, onto a thick last coat. It wears well enough that I don't think I ever have had to refinish it, including one cockpit floor.
Like anything, there's more expensive and cheaper products and the better quality you can expect from spending more money in most cases. I have found that more expensive teak oils last longer, but oil is subject to evaporation and so has to be reapplied to stay nice.
Varnish is more of a labor of love and following the manufacture's recommendation is recommended for best results. Teak has natural oils and so that can be a problem with some varnishes for good adhesion. Epifanes has a varnish formulated for teak that I recommend. But, varnish is slippery unlike oiled teak, especially when wet. So, a rubbed effect or satin varnish might give you more grip under foot. Varnish has UV inhibitors in them, but they are not for ever protection. The last only so long, so reapplying coats of varnish replenishes the UV protection.
Varnish is more of a labor of love and following the manufacture's recommendation is recommended for best results. Teak has natural oils and so that can be a problem with some varnishes for good adhesion. Epifanes has a varnish formulated for teak that I recommend. But, varnish is slippery unlike oiled teak, especially when wet. So, a rubbed effect or satin varnish might give you more grip under foot. Varnish has UV inhibitors in them, but they are not for ever protection. The last only so long, so reapplying coats of varnish replenishes the UV protection.