Teak oil or varnish for dinghy floor boards?

JBP-PA

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Apr 29, 2022
687
Jeanneau Tonic 23 Erie, PA
I'm restoring an old Trinka 10. The original teak floorboards were oiled, but I'm tempted to varnish them, just because I like the looks of varnish better. I'm thinking I'll do a satin final coat with non-skid texture if I varnish. What do you folk think?
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dLj

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Mar 23, 2017
4,636
Belliure 41 Back in the Chesapeake
Satin doesn't stand up as well over time to external UV. That's probably why Trinka oiled them originally.

By the way, that Trinka 10 is an awesome dinghy! Wish I had gotten the 10 rather than the 8 although the 8 fits almost anywhere...

dj
 
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Mar 26, 2011
3,806
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
I've found tung oil thinned about 25% with mineral spirits last longer. Teak oil strikes me as a marketing gimmick. The only disadvantage of tung oil is that it is slower drying, in part, because there is less solvent.
 
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JBP-PA

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Apr 29, 2022
687
Jeanneau Tonic 23 Erie, PA
I've found tung oil thinned about 25% with mineral spirits last longer. Teak oil strikes me as a marketing gimmick. The only disadvantage of tung oil is that it is slower drying, in part, because there is less solvent.
I'd have to get some oil, I don't normally use it. Probably have some 'boiled' linseed oil around.
 

JBP-PA

.
Apr 29, 2022
687
Jeanneau Tonic 23 Erie, PA
Satin doesn't stand up as well over time to external UV. That's probably why Trinka oiled them originally.

By the way, that Trinka 10 is an awesome dinghy! Wish I had gotten the 10 rather than the 8 although the 8 fits almost anywhere...

dj
I was thinking most coats would be normal gloss. Just the last coat to be satin, or maybe just toned down with bronze wool, so the first day of scratches isn't too disheartening.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,806
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
I'd have to get some oil, I don't normally use it. Probably have some 'boiled' linseed oil around.
Get the tung oil. Unlike varnish, it has a LONG shelf life, even opened. Any hardware store and Amazon.

Tung oil is considerably more water resistant than linseed oil and thus preferred for outdoor applications. Also cutting boards. I have also converted to tung oil for most indoor stuff as well because it does not yellow as much as linseed oil. It is thicker than linseed oil, so you do need to thin it a bit. I only use linseed oil on the occasional lathe project where I want the color change.

Goggle it, and go deeper than the quick AI answer (which appears to be influenced by advertisers, based on biased answers to many questions -- no big surprise there -- time to upgrade your internet filters). It is a component in most teak oil blends (they can be anything), but teak oil is blended for ease of use and quicker drying as more than durability. For a dinghy floor, durability is more important. Inside the cabin different priorities may rein. Browse woodworking sites with experienced contributors.
 
Jun 21, 2004
3,028
Beneteau 343 Slidell, LA
Consider Semco teak treatment. Certainly not as esthetically pleasing as varnish, but much easier prep, application, & recoat in future. Dries to a non slip finish. If you keep it covered, should last indefinitely.
 
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Mar 26, 2011
3,806
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
Umm, that's you guys. At least for boats.
:) But I learn lots from forums related to other crafts. We boat guys tend to be jack of all trades and master of none. Woodworkers. Machinists. Electricians. Mechanics. Welders. Composite technicians.
 
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PaulK

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Dec 1, 2009
1,438
Sabre 402 Southport, CT
Linseed oil ends up turning teak pretty much black after its initial shine wears off. I gave our teak outdoor table & chairs a dose thinking it would improve the greying and it did for about two weeks. Then...yuck. Black is ok for workboats or Viking longboats but not for floorboards in a nice dinghy. I ended up having to fix it with Oxalic Acid in a multi-hour scrubbing exercise.
 
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Nov 21, 2012
783
Yamaha 33 Port Ludlow, WA
When I built my dory I prepared a gallon of "boat soup" under the direction of Grand Canyon doryman Brad Dimock of Fretwater Boatworks. Mix 1/3 varnish, 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 turpentine (NOT thinner). A dolllop of japan drier and a dash of pine tar for fragrance. No teak aboard the dory, so your mileage may vary. The dory has ash for the gunwales, cherry for the bow and transom trim, Port Orford cedar frames and hydrotek marine plywood. Everything looks and smells wonderful. I enjoy the annual ritual of recoating everything. Wipe it on. Wipe it off. Let it dry. Go boating.
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Sailboats are not my only love.
 

capta

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Jun 4, 2009
4,986
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
If you intend for your Trinka to be a showpiece, then by all means put in two or three weeks of hard work varnishing her floorboards.
In my experience, plain teak floorboards are the safest, other than painted with a light dusting of non-skid, which would be a grave sin against the gods of teak, indeed.
 

JBP-PA

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Apr 29, 2022
687
Jeanneau Tonic 23 Erie, PA
If you intend for your Trinka to be a showpiece, then by all means put in two or three weeks of hard work varnishing her floorboards.
In my experience, plain teak floorboards are the safest, other than painted with a light dusting of non-skid, which would be a grave sin against the gods of teak, indeed.
In the spring, it'll be a showpiece for at least several hours. Then we are going to use it until it's all beat up again. That's what boats are for. Three weeks of varnishing in the middle of winter is a pleasant distraction. I'm worried about the traction too, but I've not decided yet.
 

capta

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Jun 4, 2009
4,986
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
In the spring, it'll be a showpiece for at least several hours. Then we are going to use it until it's all beat up again. That's what boats are for. Three weeks of varnishing in the middle of winter is a pleasant distraction. I'm worried about the traction too, but I've not decided yet.
I've used a light sprinkle of crushed walnut shells as a non-skid several times. Works well as a non-skid, but can easily be sanded off to refinish the wood again. Choose the grit, there are plenty, and it should be cheap.
 

capta

.
Jun 4, 2009
4,986
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
When I built my dory I prepared a gallon of "boat soup" under the direction of Grand Canyon doryman Brad Dimock of Fretwater Boatworks. Mix 1/3 varnish, 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 turpentine (NOT thinner). A dolllop of japan drier and a dash of pine tar for fragrance. No teak aboard the dory, so your mileage may vary. The dory has ash for the gunwales, cherry for the bow and transom trim, Port Orford cedar frames and hydrotek marine plywood. Everything looks and smells wonderful. I enjoy the annual ritual of recoating everything. Wipe it on. Wipe it off. Let it dry. Go boating.
View attachment 235281

Sailboats are not my only love.
Perhaps it is a good thing you didn't name her "The" Wild Child. Each of your children would wonder if it was them.
She certainly is a beauty. What does she weigh? Have you taken her out on any waters other than rivers?
The first boat I built was a dory, in my high school wood shop class. I cast the bronze rowlocks, a bronze bow fitting and cleats aft, in the metal shop class. I think making the oars was the most rewarding part of the whole thing.