I'm restoring an old Trinka 10. The original teak floorboards were oiled, but I'm tempted to varnish them, just because I like the looks of varnish better. I'm thinking I'll do a satin final coat with non-skid texture if I varnish. What do you folk think?
Teak oil or varnish for dinghy floor boards?
- Thread starter JBP-PA
- Start date
I'd have to get some oil, I don't normally use it. Probably have some 'boiled' linseed oil around.
Get the tung oil. Unlike varnish, it has a LONG shelf life, even opened. Any hardware store and Amazon.
Tung oil is considerably more water resistant than linseed oil and thus preferred for outdoor applications. Also cutting boards. I have also converted to tung oil for most indoor stuff as well because it does not yellow as much as linseed oil. It is thicker than linseed oil, so you do need to thin it a bit. I only use linseed oil on the occasional lathe project where I want the color change.
Goggle it, and go deeper than the quick AI answer (which appears to be influenced by advertisers, based on biased answers to many questions -- no big surprise there -- time to upgrade your internet filters). It is a component in most teak oil blends (they can be anything), but teak oil is blended for ease of use and quicker drying as more than durability. For a dinghy floor, durability is more important. Inside the cabin different priorities may rein. Browse woodworking sites with experienced contributors.
But I learn lots from forums related to other crafts. We boat guys tend to be jack of all trades and master of none. Woodworkers. Machinists. Electricians. Mechanics. Welders. Composite technicians.
Linseed oil ends up turning teak pretty much black after its initial shine wears off. I gave our teak outdoor table & chairs a dose thinking it would improve the greying and it did for about two weeks. Then...yuck. Black is ok for workboats or Viking longboats but not for floorboards in a nice dinghy. I ended up having to fix it with Oxalic Acid in a multi-hour scrubbing exercise.
When I built my dory I prepared a gallon of "boat soup" under the direction of Grand Canyon doryman Brad Dimock of Fretwater Boatworks. Mix 1/3 varnish, 1/3 linseed oil, 1/3 turpentine (NOT thinner). A dolllop of japan drier and a dash of pine tar for fragrance. No teak aboard the dory, so your mileage may vary. The dory has ash for the gunwales, cherry for the bow and transom trim, Port Orford cedar frames and hydrotek marine plywood. Everything looks and smells wonderful. I enjoy the annual ritual of recoating everything. Wipe it on. Wipe it off. Let it dry. Go boating.
Sailboats are not my only love.
Sailboats are not my only love.
If you intend for your Trinka to be a showpiece, then by all means put in two or three weeks of hard work varnishing her floorboards.
In my experience, plain teak floorboards are the safest, other than painted with a light dusting of non-skid, which would be a grave sin against the gods of teak, indeed.
In my experience, plain teak floorboards are the safest, other than painted with a light dusting of non-skid, which would be a grave sin against the gods of teak, indeed.