Teak and other problems.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Jan 22, 2008
1,483
Hunter 37 C sloop Punta Gorda FL
Georgeous here in SW Florida, Sunny 15kts NE, but my dog had heart problems Thursday and Friday, and I'm trying not to stir him up till we see the dog cardiologist. So we all are staying home.

Anyway here near the equator, this is sailing season. Anything we can put off till July or August we can tackle between hurricanes. So far the eyebrow is not on the urgent list like hook up the WS/WD and check the alternator pulley alignment are.
 
Jun 8, 2004
1,066
C&C Frigate 36 St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
Re: Teak and other problems

I don't know if anyone else in the fleet is using sunbrella covers for their handrails, but my covers extend the life of the finish (Cetol in my case) to about 3 or 4 years between coats. This includes all winter on the hard, as the sunbrella covers stay on and only the cockpit is tarped over. The covers are pretty simple - they snap to the handrail on each end and have velcro in the "grab gaps". I don't have any pictures, but I can try to remember to take some. Now, if I could only figure to how to protect the eyebrows between sailings...
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
I have considered that Jim. I have a roll of sunbrella and do sew. But that's just another time-consuming activity putting her to bed. I took one of the short rails down as far as I am going to. A little more hand sanding with 200 and I'll try a coat of varnish. I am afraid of how it will turn out. If it is bad then stainless here I come.
 
Nov 8, 2009
537
Hunter 386LE San Fancisco
Ed,

I enjoyed refinishing my 1987 Hunter 31's teak. But I really liked Steve Dion's teak handrail replacement with stainless steel on his former Hunter 31 and no exterior teak maintenance my new sailboat. I want to sail more and do less maintenance.
 
May 31, 2007
776
Hunter 37 cutter Blind River
My eyebrows were also beyond repair. And I am sure adding holes for water ingress into the core. So I drilled out the holes, filled the with thickened resin, sanded smooth and painted a black stripe where the eyebrow used to be. I think it looks better and is far less maintenance. Matches the black stripe below the gunwale.
 
Oct 6, 2007
1,144
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
Not sure what product you are using or how often you are refinishing your teak, but if you prefer the look of teak, have you considered other finish products? I stripped and refinished my handrails and companionway with Signature Honey Teak in the spring of 2007 and they still look like new. The handrails did get some minor touch-up and a clear maintenance coat last July as they are not protected by the dodger like the companionway. It's a three can catalyzed product and the instructions are a bit daunting at first, but it's pretty easy to use and you can apply multiple coats the same day. It may not save you much time this year, but in our climate you won't be re-doing it next year.
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,483
Hunter 37 C sloop Punta Gorda FL
Our problem is years of neglect has left very little teak in some areas of eyebrow. Funny, last night sitting out on the lanai, we talked about a black stripe to match the toe rail.

Gunwhale stripes on our boat are tricolor Blue, silver and black on the bottom. Much to wide to match for eyebrow.

Here in Florida, sunbrella covers are necessary, otherwise varnish doesn't last a year.

Isn't honey teak an epoxy type finish? And when it does crack, isn't it a b*&%^ to remove?
 
Last edited:
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
There was a thread recently about the 2-part varnishes, Honey Teak and Bristol. I found just as many negatives as positives. But as Bill and Dalliance allude to, very weather dependent. My varnished teak easily lasted three or four summers on Lake Erie. But you should see the handrails after two summers in Florida!
 
Oct 6, 2007
1,144
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
Re Honey Teak: The manufacturer recommends a clear maintenance coat once a year in Florida and every other year in northern climates. I stretched it to three years.
The minor touch-up I referred to was a couple nicks and a few bungs I had not smoothed down flush causing the product to go on to thin. It will fail first at edges and sharp corners where it tends go on thin, and of course anywhere it gets damaged. The first clue is that it appears to have turned a pale yellow where it has separated from the wood. It was pretty easy to sand those small areas, feather in the Honey Teak and a few clear coats and then finish off with the overall clear maintenance coat.
The PO had used the product for many years, but his patches and maintenance coats had gotten a bit sloppy in the later years. God bless him, he sailed until he was 83. So, when I acquired the boat, I chose to take it down to bare teak and start over with the same product. And yes, it was a b**** to remove, but isn't that you want?
 
Last edited:
Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
The problem with the PlasTeak is contraction/expansion with temperature changes. The longest I could buy was 12 foot so there had to be a miter joint. When it got cold the ends at the miter actually split because I had the screws too close to the ends. Then there was the color issue. Since then PlasTeak makes a darker and more teak-like color. I love how it turned out as dorade lids and forward traveler base(pictured above). I wish I had time to do the same for the aft traveler and winch pads.

As for handrails I just did my last bit of scraping on the short ones. They are drying in the driveway before I tackle with the sander. Rardi, your second from the front handrail is right where my traveler is located. I have to have one forward of that and then two behind. Currently the front one is 5' 8" feet and the long one is 10'. But I think that I can get away with three four-footers per side. When I study what is available I see that 304 stainless is strongest but 316 is less prone to staining. The 316 is almost twice the cost so I guess I answered my own question. :)

Ed,
I share your pain, I had my starboard side handrails broken, so from the "donor " boat at the salvage yard I found nice ones, and will install them as soon as I do the deck with the non-skid I been bragging about
But what I will do is as follows: I will have sunbrella blue, with the metal things that lock, around them to protect them from the sun
I will then remove them when I go sailing, surely that will give them a measure of protection

Regarding the "eyebrows" : again from the yard I got a few, but since I am in the business of doors, I buy from a company here what we call "glass bits" : it is a very long piece of mahogony that almost resembles the eyebrow; you cannot tell the difference
For the record, they come in 8 feet long, and I think they cost $ 5.00 each ( five)
It is the piece that gets nailed on the inside of a mahogony door, mitered at 4 ends, and it holds the glass in place
It is a perfect size
It comes only in unfinished form, better still so you can stain as you wish
If anyone wants me to get them, I will be happy to help
That was my dime's worth of useless information...
 
Jul 7, 2009
252
Beneteau First 405 Myrtle Beach, S.C.
Jorge
I was looking at my eyebrow's (the boats's) the other day since all the chatter and noticed all my plugs were gone and I only have about a 1/4" thick leftover piece of teak eyebrow. Not even deep enought to plug the screw holes.
Our eyebrow is basically a piece of bullnose molding or half round. You mentioned you had access to glass trim in mahogany 8ft long All the door trim I have used is usually a quarter round, either 1/4", 1/2" or even 3/4" on larger doors.
I would be interested in following up on your offer to locate this trim. Point me in the right direction. I sell and install lot's of Jatoba, Santos and Royal Mahogany, Cumaru and Ipe flooring. However the longest piece I have is 5ft long. So if I mill my own, I would have quite a frew joints on each eyebrow.
Thanks
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
I remember that Mike A, my crew across Erie and the canal, used mahogany for his H37C eyebrow. And it was a good color match, looked great. Maybe I will go back to that.

Or I could try PlasTeak again. Not cheap and still not sure that I like the color. Their shop is just a few miles from me so I may go and see it in person. http://plasteak.com/osc/product_info.php?cPath=1_79&products_id=336 .

Decided that stainless won't work for the rails. I think they would "clash" with my bronze portlights. Now if I had those shiney stainless ports. . . .
 
Jul 7, 2009
252
Beneteau First 405 Myrtle Beach, S.C.
Measured the eyebrow. It comprises of 2 pieces 8Ft 4 inches long joined with a lap joint in the middle. Total lengh 16'8". After 30 years, all the soft wood is gone and all there is left are the growth rings.
I have some 1x6 four quarter Jatoba in 8ft lenghts for stairs. I wonder how it will look. Jatoba (brazilian Cherry) has excellent hardness and oiled or varnished looks great. If left alone it turns silver,just like teak.
Just what I needed, one more weekend project. I have my calender filled for the next 28 week ends as it is.
Jose
 
Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
Teak and other problems

Jose,
The Company's name is Bevel King, and I think the website is www.bevelking.com, but you have to be a to purchase this
I will take a look and see what the cost is; I know it comes in 8 feet pieces, and I know you will probably have to take off a bit, but the size is perfect
 
Status
Not open for further replies.