Take apart window Air Cond. and converted it for Marine use?

abk

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Aug 9, 2007
203
Hunter H 26 Somers Point, NJ
I was talking to an HVAC person some time ago and she said it would be easy to convert a room ac by taking apart the components and use it on board. Of course it would be simple for someone in that field but not for me!

I understand how it may work and I do know that the place I mount it it (under the inside seating in my Hunter H26) would need to be vented to the outside to remove the heat.

I am thinking that a cold air ducted vent under the seat and a an air intake ducted from some distance away under another seat with the condenser heat ducted to an out side vent.

Presently I have a 6000 btu window unit mounted in the companionway which is a giant pain to step by when using the companionway. I am looking for a "less expensive" way that a traditional marine ac unit.

I have read here that the stand alone units are not able to cool the boat.

Any thoughts are welcomed.
 
Apr 19, 2012
1,043
O'Day Daysailor 17 Nevis MN
Re: Take apart window Air Cond. and converted it for Marine

It is doable. As long as the ducting is large enough to allow sufficient air flow.

If it was me I'd split the unit. You can mount the evaporator with a blower or fan in a convenient location inside and the condensor in a convenient location outside with a second blower or fan. The compressor then could be mounted anywhere. After that it's a simple matter of plumbing. Of course you'd have to have a lisenced AC mechanic evaccuate the unit before hand and charge it again when you're done.
 
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Jan 1, 2006
7,076
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
Re: Take apart window Air Cond. and converted it for Marine

The older I get the fewer compliments I get, and the still fewer I expect. It works out.
 
Jul 27, 2013
296
Hunter 37.5 1065 Rock Hall, MD
Re: Take apart window Air Cond. and converted it for Marine

I use one of those stand up a/c from Loew's. Stick the exhaust tube out the port hole, and we cool off nicely. Uses about 8 amps AC current with no spikes.
 

abk

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Aug 9, 2007
203
Hunter H 26 Somers Point, NJ
Re: Take apart window Air Cond. and converted it for Marine

What is the BTU rating?
 
Jul 27, 2013
296
Hunter 37.5 1065 Rock Hall, MD
ABK,

If you are referring to the stand up unit, i use 14k btu in the salon. Icicles on the nose in the morning.

Ben
 
May 24, 2004
7,131
CC 30 South Florida
Re: Take apart window Air Cond. and converted it for Marine

Why reinvent the wheel when there are portable A/C units in the market which operate as you have described. These unit come with a 4 1/2" hose to vent the hot air and even condensation outside the boat. The problem is that vented units are not very efficient and do not work well in boats in warmer climates. The hose acts as a heat radiator inside the cabin and the high volume of hot air which exhausted outside the boat needs to be replaced inside the cabin and guess where it comes from; the same hot and humid air you have been trying to cool. The window unit utilizes outside air to cool the compressor and the hot air is released outside. The problem a window unit has is that the air intake is right below the cool air outlet so it needs to be positioned in a window or the companionway for it to work properly. I have seen them mounted on cabin top hatches but they require an enclosure or hood on top and a set of baffles to distance and separate the air intake from the cool air outlet. There is a portable unit designed to sit on a cabin top hatch and already has the intake and exhaust separated but sells for around $1,000. I have used all kinds of them and even a water cooled unit with an umbilical cord that got thrown overboard and had a small electrical water pump. They all have their pros and cons but the best bang for the buck is still the window unit. I know it is a pain to have to climb over it and that it blows hot air and condensation into the cockpit but it may be a small price to pay considering the ($$$$) alternative. Another consideration could be the use of a portable gas generator to operate the unit away from shorepower. While a portable generator could easily handle your 6K BTU window unit it may struggle to run anything larger than 9K BTU portable unit. Perhaps you could get away with a portable unit in Penn. I would not recommend anything less than 12K BTU. All units will cool in the wee hours of the morning but few deliver in the middle of the day with the sun beating on the deck.
 

garyg

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Oct 14, 2005
22
Morgan 33 annapolis, md
installed 5000 btu a/c

captiva AC installation final stages 016.jpg

Installed in the forepeak bulkhead, condensation drains into bilge, exhausts thru cowl vent on deck.
 
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garyg

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Oct 14, 2005
22
Morgan 33 annapolis, md
That is genius! It looks good too. What model do you have?

Ben
This is a standard 5000 btu window unit. I fabricated a mockup of the bulkhead in my shop to evaluate my installation plan. I reinforced the bulkhead and provide a support shelf in the forepeak. The unit has a wood trim facia covering the aluminum frame I attached to the A/C unit. The complete assembly can be removed quickly without tools to access the anchor line storage.
My project was a feature article in the old DIY BOATER magazine. I have step by step photos.

P.S. I also installed a 110V fridge, replacing the icebox about 15 years ago and it works perfectly..
 

garyg

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Oct 14, 2005
22
Morgan 33 annapolis, md
:pix:


But seriously,... we are officially impressed.
:theman:
I believe my earlier initial response showed a photo of the unit installed. I recognize that a forepeak installation will not work for many. It does cool well unless the temp is near mid 90. I can close off the forward cabin to sleep in which case 5000 btu is more then adequate.
 

abk

.
Aug 9, 2007
203
Hunter H 26 Somers Point, NJ
This is a standard 5000 btu window unit. I fabricated a mockup of the bulkhead in my shop to evaluate my installation plan. I reinforced the bulkhead and provide a support shelf in the forepeak. The unit has a wood trim facia covering the aluminum frame I attached to the A/C unit. The complete assembly can be removed quickly without tools to access the anchor line storage.
My project was a feature article in the old DIY BOATER magazine. I have step by step photos.

P.S. I also installed a 110V fridge, replacing the icebox about 15 years ago and it works perfectly..
Thanks for sharing your idea and install. It is unfortunate that my Hunter H26 is configured in a manner that your design can't be utilized. But for others it may be a great solution.
 
Jan 22, 2008
551
NorSea 27 Az., Doing the To-Do list
Thanks for sharing your idea and install. It is unfortunate that my Hunter H26 is configured in a manner that your design can't be utilized. But for others it may be a great solution.
Not sure if it would help, but.....
We spent about 4 months in Mazatlan Mexico during the summer. VERY HOT!

What I did was purchase a small low cost (about US $95.00) window AC unit. I also purchased a 4 by 8 sheet of the one inch thick home foam insulation. Also low cost. I then used a box cutter and duct tape to make a stand and inclosure that fit on our forward overhead hatch. I then used a small part of a plastic document folder taped in place to separate the air intake and outlet.

We HAD to turn it down because if we had it on full our Nor'Sea turned into a meat locker! :D

To be honest, we didn't want the AC as much as the dehumidifier function. When we departed I passed it on to another cruiser for about 75% of my cost.

Greg
 

Johann

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Jun 3, 2004
424
Leopard 39 Pensacola
Thanks for sharing your idea and install. It is unfortunate that my Hunter H26 is configured in a manner that your design can't be utilized. But for others it may be a great solution.
How about in the bulkhead aft of the berth under the cockpit. I'm not sure of your 26, but on my former 23.5 I had a half height wall at the aft end of the main berth. When I installed my Mermaid, I made a full height bulkhead. If you have a half height, you could make it full height and install the 5k btu unit in it and put a couple cowl vents up top.