tackling the water heater on my 9.2A
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I put a couple of cans in the shopping cart, as it does look like useful stuff, particularly for us near salt water.
What is it, Bob, that you specifically regret not using it on? Doesn't seem like you needed it on the new fuel tank. And, I should think, if you put in a new metal water tank, it's probably going to outlast the boat at this point.
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Yeah, Baby! You do wonder why they put in a hot water heater without a connection to the engine, given that capability. My surveyor thought the engine might be a bit more recent than the boat, so maybe it was only raw water cooled when initially delivered.
John
Gotcha. I did order some and will give it a try. Was it too late for the Jag?
I got the two heater plugs out of the FWP today, using a half-inch electric impact wrench and an 8mm hex socket. Even with that, one took some time to be persuaded. Unfortunately, the Home Depot 3/8ths barbed adapter didn't want to fit. Sure looked like the same diameter and TPI according to my thread gauge. Maybe the pitch is different, or the threads are just poorly cut. Both seemed to thread equally into some leftover plumbing bit I found the basement. I'll give it one more try and, if it still doesn't want to thread in, I'll have a machine shop look at them.
New Whale faucet arrived and should be an easy fit. I ordered an SS built-in soap dispenser and will probably just drop that down the existing hole that was used for the old Delta faucet, putting the new faucet just to the starboard of that.
I'm hoping all the 1/4" PEX stuff I've bought to replace the existing poly tubing and fittings won't be too restrictive; the ID of the PEX is significantly smaller than the poly, given it's identical OD and thicker wall.
The shower is fed by half-inch tubing, directly from the pump, so that won't be an issue there.
I'm hoping some dense, 3/4 inch plywood I ordered from a boat kit supplier will arrive shortly. That'll form the base for the heater, which will be epoxied to the hull, after some quarter-inch SS carriage bolts are mounted to be the five anchor points. Overkill, I guess, but what the heck.
John
I got the two heater plugs out of the FWP today, using a half-inch electric impact wrench and an 8mm hex socket. Even with that, one took some time to be persuaded. Unfortunately, the Home Depot 3/8ths barbed adapter didn't want to fit. Sure looked like the same diameter and TPI according to my thread gauge. Maybe the pitch is different, or the threads are just poorly cut. Both seemed to thread equally into some leftover plumbing bit I found the basement. I'll give it one more try and, if it still doesn't want to thread in, I'll have a machine shop look at them.
New Whale faucet arrived and should be an easy fit. I ordered an SS built-in soap dispenser and will probably just drop that down the existing hole that was used for the old Delta faucet, putting the new faucet just to the starboard of that.
I'm hoping all the 1/4" PEX stuff I've bought to replace the existing poly tubing and fittings won't be too restrictive; the ID of the PEX is significantly smaller than the poly, given it's identical OD and thicker wall.
The shower is fed by half-inch tubing, directly from the pump, so that won't be an issue there.
I'm hoping some dense, 3/4 inch plywood I ordered from a boat kit supplier will arrive shortly. That'll form the base for the heater, which will be epoxied to the hull, after some quarter-inch SS carriage bolts are mounted to be the five anchor points. Overkill, I guess, but what the heck.
John
Good news, that. My Miata's from PA and knows no other word.
Got the barbed 3/8" adapters to thread into the engine today. Ran it a bit with a closed loop and saw no leaks, so modest progress. I need to add coolant, which of course reminds me it's overdue for replacement, which then reminds me I should pull and clean the heat exchanger, which I've also not done in the more than three years of ownership. But then, won't I need gaskets for either end of the heat exchanger? Ordering Yanmar bits is never as easy or as quick as I expect it to be. (Have you ever sent the Jag's oil out for analysis? I sent the Yanmar's twice, the second one after a pretty long interval. Came back with too much aluminum, which they thought might be due to its last run. I'd done a ten-hour solo sail in way too windy conditions (for someone who doesn't know the meaning of the word "reef") had the engine running AND the boat overcanvassed, and got so far knocked over the oil pick up on the engine was exposed.
But back to the water heater: The plywood for mounting the heater arrives tomorrow, while I'm in Roanoke at a three-day librarians' conference (all boat-related shipments go to work, so I won't get my hands on the plywood until next Monday, alas). My wife's coming along, just to make sure I don't sign up for any of the clothing-optional concurrent sessions.
Since I can't finish up the water heater until the mount's in place, I marked the spots to start cutting out the counter for the new faucet, but needed my right-angle drill to get that done. The new soap pump arrived and fits nicely in the old Delta's - given the previous reference to clothing-optionality - let's go with "cut out." I'll get in a bit of boat work before hitting the road tomorrow, and will send some snaps of the new faucet and soap dispenser install. They should be, as my son would say, pretty okay.
Got lots of PEX to run. I'm so enamored with the way the Sharkbite faucet connectors work, I'm going to put then on the head's faucet, too, and run fresh PEX between that and the galley. I'm swapping out the fresh water pump for a Flojet that I'm hoping will be quieter and less tempermental than the two Shurflos I've had, but I'm probably dreaming there. So, still tons to do before the cabin's back together enough to actually go sailing.
Hmm. I need to drain the thirty-odd gallons in the water tank before I can swap pumps. Or maybe I can clamp off that hose. Have I posted a pic of my simple-but-nifty water-level gauge? I don't have one handy, so I'll post one of the Sharkbite fitting, instead.
John
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Got the hole cut for the faucet. I'll upload a few pics of it - not yet connected or fastened down - and the area behind the sink with the faucet hose and soap bottle. I need to work on that hose so it will dispense easily.
I like the Whale faucet mainly because it's attached from above, so it's easy (if you leave yourself enough tubing length) to pull it up and get at connections without having to turn turtle under the sink. I've got the same one in the head, so any spares I might decide to keep on hand will work with either.
Hope enough bits arrive while I'm in Roanoke that I'll be able to finish the water heater portion of this next week.
John
I like the Whale faucet mainly because it's attached from above, so it's easy (if you leave yourself enough tubing length) to pull it up and get at connections without having to turn turtle under the sink. I've got the same one in the head, so any spares I might decide to keep on hand will work with either.
Hope enough bits arrive while I'm in Roanoke that I'll be able to finish the water heater portion of this next week.
John
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Here's an update. Some of this may be repeated from other threads.
The heater is in and working on 110V. The plumbing bits that needed redoing have been redone. The new Flojet pump is quieter than its predecessor and now shuts off quickly when the tap is closed. The system holds pressure well and will still flow briefly a couple of days after the pump's been shut off.
I am stuck at the water heater connection to the engine. It turns out I have a later FWP (perhaps a replacement) than would be indicated by the engine's serial number, so the output to the water heater is before the thermostat. That plug refused to come out, so I pulled the whole pump and took it to a machine shop to get the plug pulled or a helicoil installed. I figured now was a good time to do the heat exchanger, as I've not touched it in the four years I've had the boat (all of that time in salt water). The exchanger came out fairly easily and, to my inexperienced eye, looks pretty good. My question for the forum and beyond is: Should I get the exchanger pickled or whatever it is they do at a radiator shop? There seems to be no hard scale build up, and the inside of the tubes are probably even cleaner than they look in these pictures. But maybe the outside of the tubes, which can't be seen much, would benefit?
Please take a look and let me know what you think. Anything I should be careful about when reassembling? I've got new gaskets and o rings.
Thanks.
John
The heater is in and working on 110V. The plumbing bits that needed redoing have been redone. The new Flojet pump is quieter than its predecessor and now shuts off quickly when the tap is closed. The system holds pressure well and will still flow briefly a couple of days after the pump's been shut off.
I am stuck at the water heater connection to the engine. It turns out I have a later FWP (perhaps a replacement) than would be indicated by the engine's serial number, so the output to the water heater is before the thermostat. That plug refused to come out, so I pulled the whole pump and took it to a machine shop to get the plug pulled or a helicoil installed. I figured now was a good time to do the heat exchanger, as I've not touched it in the four years I've had the boat (all of that time in salt water). The exchanger came out fairly easily and, to my inexperienced eye, looks pretty good. My question for the forum and beyond is: Should I get the exchanger pickled or whatever it is they do at a radiator shop? There seems to be no hard scale build up, and the inside of the tubes are probably even cleaner than they look in these pictures. But maybe the outside of the tubes, which can't be seen much, would benefit?
Please take a look and let me know what you think. Anything I should be careful about when reassembling? I've got new gaskets and o rings.
Thanks.
John
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Incidentally, I LOVE the new faucet and soap dispenser set up in the galley. Getting cleaned up after working on the engine is a snap, and the generic Food Lion liquid soap really does a decent job. Having the removable handset on the faucet has proven very useful when it comes to flushing out the old coolant on the engine, an added bonus!
Now, if they just made that faucet in a color that would hide smudges better.
John
Now, if they just made that faucet in a color that would hide smudges better.
John
John,
Congratulations. I replaced our heater earlier this year and understand the jubilation that come along with it. Good luck on the hose end.
You might want to consider getting in the habit of releasing that pressure, on a regular basis. No need to keep the system pressurized all the time, now that you know it does hold. When ever I leave the boat, I turn off the water pressure breaker, open the faucet, let it go until it droops, close the faucet, open the breaker, then close the thru hull. No sense having even a minor leak if you're not there.
Another suggestion: get in the bit of using the hot water faucet/side even if there is NO hot water. It keeps the water moving through the heater and helps to minimize any odors.
Fresh Water System Recommissioning 101 - Peggie Hall's "Cocktail" http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5836.0.html
Thanks, Stu, for the great tips. I will start releasing the pressure now that I know the system's tight. I also like the idea of keeping water moving through the heater. I'll do that, too. I did read that the marine water heater manufacturers set the temps fairly high to reduce the chance of Legionnaire's bactteria forming, although the CDC says it's really only very large units where there's much risk.
John
There's a solid marine diesel repair shop close to work. I'll take the exchanger to them. I think they can boil it, or recommend a shop that can be relied on to do it right.
John
that's good new John ..it will give you a chance to see if any of the tubes are in disrepair and when you get it back in drain out all the old coolant and put in good new coolant....i use the shell ELC or something like that you can get the stuff at a independent truck parts supply store and they usually have it in stock ...i keep an extra gal on board
The heat exchanger is in the shop as we speak getting cleaned and pressure tested. The experts actually thought it looked fine, but recommended running it through while it was out anyway. Made sense.
I've got a gallon of Havoline ELC concentrate on hand. Seems it's the same formula as Shell and the other recommended ELCs.
The FWP is back from the machine shop, having had its remaining 3/8ths plug removed. I swapped the barbed fitting to that opening, just before the thermostat (new thermostat and gasket now in place) and put a temp sender just past the thermostat for a new electric temp gauge. Somewhat redundant, but the digital one with the thermistor bolted to the thermostat housing is in the cabin, so now I'll have a gauge in the cockpit, too. Original Yanmar temp alarm is still attached.
I'm busy replacing all hoses and many of the gaskets. I've also got a new l mixing elbow that I want to put in. I have the old mixing elbow and its mounting bracket separated from the engine, but the elbow doesn't want to separate from the big exhaust hose. If I try twisting the elbow, the lower end of the hose - which is still clamped - turns, rather than the hose end (unclamped) at the elbow. I probably should replace the hose, but I'm afraid the lower end is below the waterline. Is it? Isn't that the muffler it attaches to, and isn't that designed to not let water back in?
I'll attach a shot of the said elbow and hose (and I promise to tidy everything up before I get back on the water), along with a shot of the new elbow, just because its pretty.
If I use one of the stud finders that measure density, do you suppose it would work for finding the waterline? Won't hurt to try, unless it leads me to believe the waterline is lower than it is.
John
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John i don't think it matters that hose is below the water line as long as you have the hose going to the outside hooked up to the muffler and a high loop in it which is above the water line of the hull if the hose is moving on the muffler and you don't have water coming out then you should be able to remove it with out worry so by all means remove it and replace it with new....just make sure you double clamp it when going back together...i like the tee bolt clamps a lot better than the other style and there is the kind that mainsail recommends that is good too
I heard back from the shop that's working on the heat exchanger. They found one of the 29 tubes was leaking, and so they sealed that one off. I don't imagine it'll make a significant difference in the cooling capacity. But good thing I had them look at it! About $200 for the cleaning and repair. I'm hoping I'll have all the bits necessary next week to put it back together. In the meantime, I'm trying to clean the engine up enough on the outside to do a rattle can overhaul. Do you put anything on the big hose nipples to help reduce corrosion, before installing the hoses? They're looking pretty rusty.