tackling the water heater on my 9.2A

[bugbitten]

Decided all the other projects on the boat weren't "fun" enough, so I bought a new water heater and actually started installing it the same day! Per the Woodster, I pulled the aft panel out of the quarterberth (after hauling all the stuff out of there I'd had stored), cleared out the main cockpit compartment, and was then able to remove the two screws (seems insufficient, that) holding the tank in place. After draining the water and removing the connections, I could shift the tank around fairly easily, but I'll be damned if I can figure out how to get it out through the q'berth. The opening measures about 13 x 15", while the tank measures about 16 x 18". Do I have to cut it up? (BobM: Have Sawzall, will travel?)

I'll attach a photo, but I don't think it'll tell you much.

Hmm. I suppose I should go measure the one I'm intending to install!

BTW I'd noted some time back that one of our members was thinking about putting in air conditioning and was discouraged because "the boat wasn't worth it." Did I miss that memo? I'd always thought the purchase price of the boat was only a modest down payment (20%?) toward what will eventually be the true cost!

John

 

[woodster]

did you buy the same size as the old one ...i bought a slim model by indel/isotemp it went in fine

to get the old one out you have to take the outside jacket off

 

[woodster]

this one will work just fine take a look at it http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|2234308|2234310&id=2357690

 

[bugbitten]

this one will work just fine take a look at it http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|2234308|2234310&id=2357690

I'll pull the one I bought out of the carton tomorrow and get some measurements. I think it's pretty compact. It's some Quick Sigmar model, made in Italy. Just five gallons. It'll pull heat off the engine, as well as the internal element, unlike the original one, so I'll have to puzzle out the Yanmar 2GM20F connection at some point.

Looked up the specs. About 14" in diameter and 17" long.

Any trick to getting the jacket off the old one?

John

 

[woodster]

i'll Pull The One I Bought Out Of The Carton Tomorrow And Get Some Measurements. I Think It's Pretty Compact. It's Some Quick Sigmar Model, Made In Italy. Just Five Gallons. It'll Pull Heat Off The Engine, As Well As The Internal Element, Unlike The Original One, So I'll Have To Puzzle Out The Yanmar 2gm20f Connection At Some Point.

Looked Up The Specs. About 14" In Diameter And 17" Long.

Any Trick To Getting The Jacket Off The Old One?

John

sawzallor an air chisel or even snips

 

[bugbitten]

Made a bit more progress today. Have all of the jacket off but still can't get the tank itself out through the quarterberth. Guess I'll have to cut it up, which won't be fun. The plywood base for the old tank has fallen to pieces, so I probably better switch from the angle grinder and cut off wheel and its attendant fireworks display. I suspect it's going to be tedious going with the Sawzall, though.

I did try the new tank briefly. It will just fit through the opening, but I don't know if it'll make the turn to starboard without running into the cockpit drain's thru-hull. I didn't want to push it too far with the old tank still in situ.

John

 

[Mark Maulden]

I had to sawzall my 15 gal tank in half as it would not come out through the cockpit locker. I think the heater install was step 2 right behind the hull....the sawzall should go quick with the right blade and assuming the tank can be held in place. Had to replace mine with a six gal which is fine.

 

[woodster]

Made a bit more progress today. Have all of the jacket off but still can't get the tank itself out through the quarterberth. Guess I'll have to cut it up, which won't be fun. The plywood base for the old tank has fallen to pieces, so I probably better switch from the angle grinder and cut off wheel and its attendant fireworks display. I suspect it's going to be tedious going with the Sawzall, though.

I did try the new tank briefly. It will just fit through the opening, but I don't know if it'll make the turn to starboard without running into the cockpit drain's thru-hull. I didn't want to push it too far with the old tank still in situ.

John

that's a good thing...i moved my cockpit drains and glassed over the holes in the boat they were below the water line with no sea cock and i didn't like that at all good luck with the sawzall

 

[bugbitten]

I remember your drain relocation, Woody. I'm planning to have her hauled next spring and may follow your lead on the drains at that time. There will be loads to do, even without that task, though. I did have the port drain get blocked by growth fairly recently, something that wouldn't be an issue if it were above the waterline (or I cleaned the bottom more often!).

Will update this when the old tank is finally out.

John

 

[bugbitten]

A day short of two weeks after my initial post, the tank is out! As was suggested, I mostly used a reciprocating saw (my 18V Ryobi), but some particularly difficult cuts were handled by the overly-exuberant angle grinder, with two small-but-important cuts - including the very last one - handled by a Dremel with a little cut-off wheel. Ended up pulling it easily out of the starboard cockpit compartment. Have some cleaning up to do, then I'll see if I can get the new unit in.

Thanks for everyone's input. What a relief!

John

 

[bugbitten]

It fits!

Although it would've made more sense to wait until I had a new platform installed, I went ahead and squeezed the new heater in through the quarterberth opening. It just fit, without having to remove the hoses to the port cockpit drain. As you can probably see from the two pics, it takes up much less space than the old one and is about the same capacity. Plus it'll take engine heat, if I can figure that out.

Should I be worried about the green "patina" on the rudder bits?

John

 

[Mark Maulden]

Not sure id worry about the green stuff. The two issues I see are 1) the cross brace just below the quadrant. You can wire brush the loose rust off and coat with Corroseal or like and then paint and 2) floating wire. I'd try to secure and organize the wiring. If you can physically fit in the space, I'd do these before nailing down the tank. As an afterthought, check out the hoses also....

 

[woodster]

your cross brace looks to be in very good shape compared to mine...just clean it up and paint it like mark said ...i made a new one as mine was not acceptable and i coated it with cold galvanize...... the green stuff is fine if it were pink i would worry and be very afraid

congratulations on getting the old out and the new in....build your platform on the work bench and then scribe it to the hull...... make sure you grind in to the glass so to get a good bond and use west system

 

[Mark Maulden]

Do I see rust on the steering cables? Especially stbd..

 

[bugbitten]

Not sure id worry about the green stuff. The two issues I see are 1) the cross brace just below the quadrant. You can wire brush the loose rust off and coat with Corroseal or like and then paint and 2) floating wire. I'd try to secure and organize the wiring. If you can physically fit in the space, I'd do these before nailing down the tank. As an afterthought, check out the hoses also....

I knew I'd get nailed on the wiring! I actually judiciously cropped the photo to hide a wire nut!

I'm still working on the NMEA cabling and some other odds and ends. Having better access does make it a good opportunity to tidy up.

Will get some Corroseal and give that a try.

I have replaced the hoses on the front of the engine. Time to do the others, I guess.

 

[bugbitten]

Do I see rust on the steering cables? Especially stbd..

I'll double-check, but I think the cables are solid. I'd greased them some time back, and they probably picked up some of the flaking rust from the heater as I moved it around.

I appreciate the suggestions!

John

 

[bugbitten]

One tool I found particularly helpful for this process was a cheap scissors jack. I wedged it between the underside of the cockpit floor and the water heater. It did a pretty decent job of holding the tank still while the Sawzall did its thing.

John

 

[BobM]

The patina on the rudder stock stuffing box means it may be leaking. It took a while but I think that is the source of the water damage to the sole near the galley in my boat.

 

[bugbitten]

The patina on the rudder stock stuffing box means it may be leaking. It took a while but I think that is the source of the water damage to the sole near the galley in my boat.

Thanks, Bob. I haven't seen any actual leakage, but I'll wire brush it and keep and eye on things.

John

 

[bugbitten]

I'm waiting for various bits and pieces to finish up the water heater. I did finally find my Yanmar factory manual and, toward the back, they did have the connections from the fresh water pump to the water heater shown. These look to be 8mm hex plugs. I couldn't get either to budge yesterday. Will try some penetrant, then an 8mm hex socket on my Ryobi impact tool. Cross your fingers. I'll upload the relevant manual page, in case someone else is looking for this info.

John