Survey on C310 #217

[Tom J]

Looks like the sent out the mechanic and the issue with the engine was a loose nut. We are going to do another trial on Sunday!

Be wary. I think you have seen enough on this boat to realize she has issues. If you don't want a project boat, then she is not for you. A well maintained C310 is a gem, and, with persistence, you will find one.
I was lucky to find my 2003 C310 back in 2005. I bought her as a used boat, of course, but she was still brand new. The previous owner had used her once or twice, and the engine had 19 hours on it. I started her maintenance with a clean slate, and she now has 1700 hours on the engine, and over 7,000 miles of cruising under her keel. Her engine and tranny and all components are original, except the raw water pump and starter. Her sails are original, with a do over on the main sail at Sail Care.
Anyway, the right C310 for you is out there. If not a C310, then the other zero series Catalinas are good alternatives.

 

[Grichelli]

Be wary. I think you have seen enough on this boat to realize she has issues. If you don't want a project boat, then she is not for you. A well maintained C310 is a gem, and, with persistence, you will find one.
I was lucky to find my 2003 C310 back in 2005. I bought her as a used boat, of course, but she was still brand new. The previous owner had used her once or twice, and the engine had 19 hours on it. I started her maintenance with a clean slate, and she now has 1700 hours on the engine, and over 7,000 miles of cruising under her keel. Her engine and tranny and all components are original, except the raw water pump and starter. Her sails are original, with a do over on the main sail at Sail Care.
Anyway, the right C310 for you is out there. If not a C310, then the other zero series Catalinas are good alternatives.

Really appreciate the input. We went on the second sea trial and the engine was working like a charm. No oil leaks no smoke from the exhaust, even from cold, what looks like normal blow by. I talked to the diesel mechanic that came to address the issues (which the out surveyor recommended) and he said the engine looks and sounds like it’s in good shape after makes some adjustments to it. Everything else about the boat looks kes in pretty good shape. The interior needs a deep clean as the boat was not used much as the previous owner passed away and was sold through the estate. Solely under power today at 2,000 rpm we were doing 5.5-6 knots. I genuinely hope it does work out at this point as we are excited to get sailing again.

 

[JRT]

Congrats and good luck, that speed seems good to me

 

[Grichelli]

Hello All,
After purchasing the boat we had a fantastic sail down from Stuart to WPB. Since we are on a mooring ball, we've taken several trips to the public dock in downtown and thoroughly cleaned the boat, last owner was a bit of a slob, fortunately it was all superficial. While thoroughly cleaning we replaced the v-berth mattress with a memory foam one, but that has so far been it. While cleaning we have gone out a couple time to sail and we are extremely happy with our purchase thus far.

I have a couple of questions which hopefully have easy answers:
-While going through my checks before we set sail I noticed that one of the plastic "anti-chafing" guides that goes into the mast is missing. Does anyone know where I could find one? (picture below)
-Also on a less important note, the back rail has what looks like a flag pole holder, is that what it is? (picture below) What kind of pole is used? It has no holes or anything that is threaded, it would seem like a normal wooden pole would fall off in the right conditions.
-We are missing the board that goes underneath the removable bench seat on the transom, can anyone share a picture to see if this is something that can be made or purchased?
-Does anyone know the size of the line that is used on the traveler, this needs to be replaced soon. How long is each side? If it makes a difference our has in mast sail and its from 2003.

Thank you!

 

[KZW]

It is a flag holder. I’ve never had a problem with flags falling out. I use an oversized dowel which I turned to put a knob on the end and then sanded the base so it would fit into the holder. I stained it and coated with polyurethane.
I’ve also used it for committee boat flags
If you get a staff that is a sloppy fit, just wrap tape at the base.

I replaced my traveler lines last year, using a red fleck for port and green fleck for starboard. I will try to search through my records to find the length

 

[KZW]

CatalinaDirect says 33 ft. I’m not sure mine are that long

 

[Grichelli]

It is a flag holder. I’ve never had a problem with flags falling out. I use an oversized dowel which I turned to put a knob on the end and then sanded the base so it would fit into the holder. I stained it and coated with polyurethane.
I’ve also used it for committee boat flags
If you get a staff that is a sloppy fit, just wrap tape at the base.

I replaced my traveler lines last year, using a red fleck for port and green fleck for starboard. I will try to search through my records to find the length

Great, what I will likely end up doing is putting tape to the wooden flag pole I currently have as it is a little loose!

I wanted to use red to port and green to starboard and the wife called me childish, but I think I'll do it anyway! Good call on going to the catalina direct site for dimensions. Did you make your own eye splice to connect to the travel or just tied a bowline knot?

 

[Tom J]

We are missing the board that goes underneath the removable bench seat on the transom, can anyone share a picture to see if this is something that can be made or purchased?

It is basically a piece of starboard cut to fit the slots. Should not be difficult to make one.

 

[KZW]

Great, what I will likely end up doing is putting tape to the wooden flag pole I currently have as it is a little loose!

I wanted to use red to port and green to starboard and the wife called me childish, but I think I'll do it anyway! Good call on going to the catalina direct site for dimensions. Did you make your own eye splice to connect to the travel or just tied a bowline knot?

The color code helps with rookie crew: “Release the cleat on the green line and pull on the red one”
Regarding the board: I would go and take pictures/measurements of mine, but I had my right knee replaced on Thursday and cannot get onto the boat. It is just a piece of Starboard, with wooden edge on the top. The Starboard slides into the slots below the removable helm seat. The wood piece makes it easy to grab and pull out.

 

[marchem]

Great, what I will likely end up doing is putting tape to the wooden flag pole I currently have as it is a little loose!

I wanted to use red to port and green to starboard and the wife called me childish, but I think I'll do it anyway! Good call on going to the catalina direct site for dimensions. Did you make your own eye splice to connect to the travel or just tied a bowline knot?

My rigger led the traveler lines under the dodger to a Harken swivel cleat. Much easier to adjust compared to reaching under the dodger, and brings almost all the control lines to one spot.

 

[Calif. Ted]

The halyard exit plates on the mast were plastic, replacements in stainless available, CD didn't have them at the time so I got them from Rigrite. Called CD and they ordered some, cheaper then other sources, check for size, these are the small ones, others are 1 inch longer.
Halyard Exit Plate Riveted, Stainless C-320, C-350

 

[marchem]

The halyard exit plates on the mast were plastic, replacements in stainless available, CD didn't have them at the time so I got them from Rigrite. Called CD and they ordered some, cheaper then other sources, check for size, these are the small ones, others are 1 inch longer.
Halyard Exit Plate Riveted, Stainless C-320, C-350

If you use the stainless be sure to isolate the steel from the aluminum. You may never want to remove them, but it’s a good idea, nevertheless.

 

[Cat 310 #1 in GA]

Given this is an 18 year old boat you should make a list of what has been replaced and when. If it hasn't been replaced it will likely need to be in the next few years. I am referring to AC, fridge, every pump on board including the head pump and macerator. Chainplates may need to be rebed and check for leaks around them and Genoa track bolts. Check condition of the bilge - wet or dry - and keel bolts and all thru hulls. Have rigging inspected too. Long list but a good surveyor is essential.

 

[Grichelli]

The halyard exit plates on the mast were plastic, replacements in stainless available, CD didn't have them at the time so I got them from Rigrite. Called CD and they ordered some, cheaper then other sources, check for size, these are the small ones, others are 1 inch longer.
Halyard Exit Plate Riveted, Stainless C-320, C-350

Who is the manufacturer of the mast? I would prefer to remain with the current ones. I don't think the ones that CD sells are the same, as the mention that the original ones are clipped in, mine have a rivet on the bottom.

 

[Grichelli]

Given this is an 18 year old boat you should make a list of what has been replaced and when. If it hasn't been replaced it will likely need to be in the next few years. I am referring to AC, fridge, every pump on board including the head pump and macerator. Chainplates may need to be rebed and check for leaks around them and Genoa track bolts. Check condition of the bilge - wet or dry - and keel bolts and all thru hulls. Have rigging inspected too. Long list but a good surveyor is essential.

All of that was done during survey, I've only found two minor leaks through the port side cabin fixed windows (may have to rebed) and light leak through the forward hatch (cannot figure out from where as WPB has been oddly dry). Will definitely be keeping a log of replacements, which is something a future owner will want (I know I would have appreciated it). The PO at least kept the receipts, so I know what has been changed. So far we have been really pleased. The only things I have to address ASAP is that the stuffing box does not leak when prop turns, but considering the easy locations I assume this won't be much of an issue.


The only other things that I have noticed is that the tachometer does not work all the time, sometimes I have to hit the glass and starts to work. The volt meter and fuel gauge do not work. I haven't checked the wiring to the sources but am concerned about opening the pod and breaking the gasket. I looked at CD and could not find the gasket replacement.

 

[Tom J]

The only other things that I have noticed is that the tachometer does not work all the time, sometimes I have to hit the glass and starts to work. The volt meter and fuel gauge do not work. I haven't checked the wiring to the sources but am concerned about opening the bot and breaking the gasket. I looked at CD and could not find the gasket replacement.

I assume you meant "pod", and not "bot", but don't worry about the gasket. The pod is sealed with a rubber gasket, and it won't hurt to open it up. It will seal again very well. Sounds like you have a bad connection to the gauges, probably the ground, since more than one is inoperative. The intermittent tach was an issue on my boat. You can fix it temporarily by turning the calibration screw on the back of the tach right and left a few times to clean off corrosion on the wiper, but be sure to mark the original location of the screw. I did this for a few seasons, but then the tach died, so I bought a new one from CD, along with the timing light to calibrate the tach. Now I know the tach is accurate.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

the back rail has what looks like a flag pole holder, is that what it is? (picture below) What kind of pole is used?

Looks pretty spindly. If you think it's solid enough, they are "usually" intended to use 1" SS tubing and make your own flag pole. The same stuff as your SS push and pulpits.

Solely under power today at 2,000 rpm we were doing 5.5-6 knots.

Maybe something's rotten in Denmark here. Are you sure that's not 3,000 RPM you were seeing ? You should be cruising at approx. 80% of max. RPM. If the engine max. RPM is 3,600 RPM, you should be cruising at approx. 2,880 RPM.

Tach is out of calibration, wrong prop, engine max. RPM is other than 3,600 RPM. Not difficult to determine. This is a DIY'er with a cheap optical tach ($25.00). Left unchecked, it could lead to the 2nd engine replacement in short order if there's a real problem here.

 

[Calif. Ted]

Who is the manufacturer of the mast? I would prefer to remain with the current ones. I don't think the ones that CD sells are the same, as the mention that the original ones are clipped in, mine have a rivet on the bottom.

Isomat, The clipped in thing is in error, originals were the plastic with rivet, stainless is same maker and size.
Isomat Exit Plates

 

[Grichelli]

Isomat, The clipped in thing is in error, originals were the plastic with rivet, stainless is same maker and size.
Isomat Exit Plates

Thanks! Next time on the boat I'll take the measurement and order it in plastic!