Surprise on Dry: Structural

[Regular Guy]

My boat is an the dry on a DIY marina intending to do the usual maintenance like replacing the lines going under the waterline (CB ands rudder), bottom painting, polishing and waxing, on outboard engine oil- and gear change, replacing the impeller, etc.

I got told it comes most something else up. Well, it was not pleasant to discover a damage on the bowl. The upper deck part separated from the hull.

My question how to fix it the best; using marine-tex, fiberglass resin or two component epoxy
pressing into it and releasing the forestay-pull to get both parts tight together. Maybe placing some bolts through? Advice is appreciated,
Hart

 

[Afrakes]

You are going to have to find out how the hull and deck were fastened together. To do this the rub rail will have to be removed to truly assess the extent of damage. Only then will you be able to tell exactly what you are going to have to do.

 

[Regular Guy]

The second picture shows the damage with removed rub rail. The hull ends arch formed to the outside and the deck reached over vertically. The seam seems to be glued together. While when looking at the second picture there is about 2 1/2 ft from the front on each side a vertical bolt through from the deck down. That's it as far I see it. Dave can probably say it better.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Call Eddie Breeden at Marlowe Hunter. Either one of two things occurred. The bow took a substantial hit or it pulled apart. Ask eddie about the second as that did occur in the past to several boats.

I would suggest taking the mast down to get the pressure off the bow. The deck and hull are two separate fiberglass pieces with marine putty or 5200 between the two. I would fiberglass the two parts if damaged first and then bond together. If you need to contact me then send an email.

 

[MaxinCalgary]

Regular guy. My H260 has bolts 6" on either side of the bow. This is a modification that Hunter added to later years to avoid this exact problem. It could have hit something or had an over tightened forestay. I think it's in the modification section .


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H260 Service Upgrade
Author: Mike Harms
There has been a little discussion about a service upgrade that Hunter Marine announced for the H260. I found out about it on the web after buying my "pre-owned" 1998 H260 in late 2003.

I can't find the service bulletin on the Hunter Marine website anymore, but if you contact them they will ask you for your boat's serial number, ask you a few questions to verify your boat hasn't already been upgraded, and send you the parts if not.

The upgrade consists of drilling two holes in the bow-hull seam and installing bolts and caulk. This is to strengthen the seam in the event your boat runs into something (say your mast hits a bridge), and helps to keep your forward bow from peeling away from the hull.





Bow Bolts

The through-seam bolts are fastened with washers and lock nuts, with caulk around everything. It's a very simple upgrade, and gives that little extra peace of mind.





Bow Bolts - Underside

 

[Regular Guy]

Thank you for the contributions on the fix of the problem. As Crazy Dave and MaxinCalgary mentioned there have been cases like mine and Hunter recommended enforcement between hull and deck on the bow.

Here how it got repaired. As deck and hull were pulled apart I worked old 3M5200 out and squeezed new one as much as possible between it. As Crazy Dave advised, I took then the forestay off but could not take the mast down since my boat at the boat yard was unfortunately so placed that it would interfere with the next boat. So I attaching the gin pole and main purchase to the anchor u-eye to secure the mast in upright position. In the up position was hardly any pulling stress to feel on the deck part.

Then I used a ratchet strap through the bow u-eye and pulled the deck all down onto the hull. I filled out the bigger holes with marine-tex.

I drilled on each side 2 holes in 10" distance vertically through deck edge and hull where they join together in upside down u-form and enforced the join with big headed ss bolts.

 

[Kermit]

Just saw this thread for the first time today. I'm gonna check my bow tomorrow morning. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

I just spoke and Hart has done a good job. As for his centerboard knot, I told him a knot only and make sure none of the knot is protruding.

If you over tighten The forestay too much is one cause for this type of failure on the hull to deck joint

 

[Jackdaw]

dave,

is there really no chainplate? with that outward deck flange there is no other way to bond the forestay load to the hull structure.

 

[dewhunter]

chainplate

That's right jackdaw, the h26 model before has a chainplate attached to the deck as well as to the hull/deck flange. In the 260 this is all gone, the forestay/furler is connected to the bow railing witch is only attached to the deck. Sounds like a cheep recipe for success.

 

[Kermit]

Just checked mine today. All seems well.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Jackdaw;

There is no straping of the chain plate on the 260 to the hull. In the cases I was involved in one of two things were occurring. First someone rammed the bow into a dock, boat, etc. setting up for failure. There were some who just had to overtighten the heck out of the forestay which helped to set up failure. The boats that I tuned never had an issue which I think it was close to 20-25% of the production line.