Better option than the "Quick and Dirty" and possibly catastrophic!For $85 to $95 you can buy a Raymarine depth or speed transducer that fits in a 2 1/8" hole. Defender or Amazon can probably have it to you on Friday.
Pick up a tube for 4200 or Sik-I-Flex 291 and you can have it installed in less time than fiberglass can set up.
Maybe you won't use it for a while but you will be properly filling the hole with something useful down the road.
It is not the transducer that is suspect... it is the through hull flangeFor $85 to $95 you can buy a Raymarine depth or speed transducer that fits in a 2 1/8" hole. Defender or Amazon can probably have it to you on Friday.
Pick up a tube for 4200 or Sik-I-Flex 291 and you can have it installed in less time than fiberglass can set up.
Maybe you won't use it for a while but you will be properly filling the hole with something useful down the road.
Correct, but the new transducer includes a new thru hull fitting. Just need to extract the old one and seal the new one in.It is not the transducer that is suspect... it is the through hull flange
In most cases you only have access to the outside to do repairs. I totally agree with tapering as it increases contact between the existing and new fiberglass. A repair such as this doesnt make sense to do from the outside since gravity would be working against you. In addition a large patch on the inside would have far more contact than tapering. For the record I think tapering is a waste of time in this scenario but I will do both tapering and a patch.apering the repair area isn't about making it pretty. It has to be done to make it secure.