Stuffing box

[Ctskip]

I know it's been discussed here before, but I'm going out tomorrow and the box needed attention last week. Right now I have it tightened up as much as it will allow to stop the dripping. I have all the stuffing(wicks) in assorted sizes. I know to cut it on a angle and the one question I have is, do I put two or three rings on the shaft, then tighten the nut? I know to place the slices opposite each other on the shaft. I have the tools to pull out the old wick and I am doing this hopefully tomorrow. But it will definitely be done this week. Anyone know how many "rings" of wick I place on the shaft? Do I put two and tighten, then see if there's room for another? Just trying to save some time and do it right the first time. Thanks Keep it up, Ctskip

 

[Ross]

I just pack it to the point that there are three

or four threads left showing and then gently tighten it. After it runs for a bit you will want to check on it and perhaps tighten it a bit more.

 

[Rick]

I have a m18 universl with a 1" shaft, I use 3 pieces of 3/16

 

[Maine Sail]

It depends on the stuffing box..

I've had some where no matter what you could only get two rings in and others that take four. I personally feel safer with at least three but you'll know as soon as you pull the old rings out. You can cut the new rings outside the boat on the shaft so you get the correct size and then go back inside and install them. Don't over tighten out of the water just snug it up lightly and when she goes in and has run a while do a final adjustment. It's really quite easy but for your first time I'd suggest making sure your boat is out of the water to replace the packing..

 

[Ctskip]

Thanks guys

This is the first time on this boat. Unfortunately, she's in the water at a slip. I have already broken the nut loose, so I know it moves easily. Got the picks and cork screw thingy. Now to make sure the three pumps work, (they did last time I checked them) and clear out the area so I can get my overweight body into the large area they give us to get some work done. I'm not sure how long the stuffing has been in there, or what it looks like. Hopefully it'll come out cleanly. I'll have the trailer/tractor at ready, just for insurance. Hauling a 31 footer out of the lake on a trailer is no easy task. I've got three pumps so I don't see any problem with that. Thanks again guys. Enjoy the wknd, it'll be cool here 40/60. Kinda nice though. Keep it up, Ctskip

 

[Bill]

Packing

Just changed packing on a 25.5 with a single cylinder dsl engine. The box had two rings of packing in it with a stainless washer between. I replaced the two with two. Not a fun job, though. Next year I intend to replace the box with a dripless seal system.

 

[Stu Jackson]

The cork screwy thing may not work

I found it to be too wide. Use a thin, long drywall screw instead. You CAN do it in the water, easy to stuff some rags into the small hole where the water comes in.See: http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-stuffing-box.htmlAlso: http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-ron-hill.html Scroll down for a picture of how to tape a plastic bag around the shaft to keep water out.The e-marine GoreTex material became available after I wrote this and is just as good as the green goop.

 

[CalebD]

As many rings as it takes to fill the gland

so that you can still thread on the packing nut.As for doing it in the water Stu says you can slow down the inflow with a rag pushed into the box. I have also read that you can take wax and try to seal the shaft at the cutlass bearing by pushing wax in around the shaft. I guess you would take a candle and mold a short string of wax out of it and then take it underwater. The wax will work its way out eventually. This may be harder to do in really cold lake water

 

[Stu Jackson]

It's NOT that much water

as noted in my references in my last post. I do it without any rags or plastic bags, the water flows into the bilge and get pumped out. I do it in fifteen minutes, but the first time took me over an hour, I did NOT sink!I didn't say stuff rags in the box, [edited 4/3] the rags would go into forward end of the pipe that attaches to the black hose surrounding the shaft as it exists the stern tube, which is where the water comes in. The stuffing box is forward of that location and slides forward to enable the insertion of the flax.Do NOT stuff anything outside the boat. You'll regret it because it'll be heck to remove.After all these years one would think that the real world effect of letting a little water in the boat would overshadow the urban myths about boats sinking when changing the flax.Maybe that's why they remain urban myths.Perhaps those with completely dry bilges would not agree, but at least it gives you a chance to remove the spider webs...

 

[Ctskip]

It's a done deal

Hardly any water at all. My guess would be about 2 gallons. I used the flexable cork screw thingy I got at a local boat store. It worked like a charm. I was all cleaned up and started within a hour. I used two 3/16 thick rings. The job probably took 25 minutes to actually do. But I had to start and move the shaft and check for leaks then put everything back into the lazerette. You know the usual messing around a sailboat thing. Thanks again guys. I've owned three sailboats and haven't had a dry bilge yet. Maybe someday.  Keep it up, Ctskip

 

[Maine Sail]

Nice Job!

For a first timer two gallons is very good!!

 

[Ralph18414]

If the lake water is warm enough for a dive,

you can take a string formed of putty and squeeze it into the corner of the external shaft bearing and the shaft itself to stop the intrusion of water. However, that only works if you have a shaft log, usually associated with a full keel boat. In the case of a strut bearing and a large hole through which the shaft exits, you may have to use rags which will require a second dive to remove them when the job is complete.

 

[Bill OD]

How to

Stuffing box on the hards, not in the waterRemovalUnscrew thin brass jam nut to free up big oneUnscrew big brass nut completely.Spray WD-40 inside to loosen up flax.Turn corkscrew pick into first layer, pull Vise Grip offers better leverage.Repeat until all layers removed two if was chinzy, three more likely.Clear out brass seating of any loose debris so new flax sits well.InstallBuy 13 inches Teflon 1/4 inch = three at 4 inchesTurn first wrap tight, mark with thumbnail or do at home with 1-inch stanchionCut with share razor knife or Dremel sawCut remaining 2 wraps to same sizePoke first one in clockwise by turning big nut slowlyMark where it started with red penScrew down onto shaft to pack, by hand onlyLoosen and repeat two more timesDo not overtighten, or will burn flax and not seat properlyTestWhen launch, be prepared to tighten using wrench keep jam nut looseShould be no drips at rest, do not overtightenIn gear, should be no more than 1-3 drops per minute preferably noneOptimum is no drips in gear “1-3 is an old wives tale,” says Fred at YardTighten one flat at a time while in gearIf the big nut is warm, back off as burning the flax,unlikely at this pointAlways retighten the jam cleat to avoid inadvertent looseningWhen it’s right, try a day or week later takes time, be patientCheck again for three weeks then three months laterShould last three or four years okay to tighten one flat a time, over time