Haha that never even occurred to me. I just assumed they were there for a reason so I use them. I guess I’ll have to try without. But with a stopper knot on the jib sheet they do a rather good job of keeping the bitter end in reach at all times…
Strategies and techniques for solo heavy weather sailing
- Thread starter Project_Mayhem
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I usually tie the stopper knot 3ft from the end of the line for this exact purpose. If you do a figure 8 with an extra twist, it won't come undone as easily
Note that I said about 6' of jib (in +30kts of wind). The "J" dimension on my boat is 13' so the clew is a long way in front of the foreward lowers. By tensioning both sheets, I pull the sail flatter and closer to centerline than is possible with the leward sheet alone. I do not have an inner forestay which it sounds like you do. In your case, I would do this trick with the staysail not the genoa.
The reason that it works so well is the change in the center of effort. When motoring, the foreward thrust vector is parallel to the prop shaft. This is down at or below the center of bouancy and below the peak resistance [cutwater] so the thrust tends to make bow rise. We all see this when the stern of the boat squats when motoring. By adding a small amount of thrust into the greatly reefed jib, we now have three additional force vectors. One is at the jig sheet turning block, another is at the stem and the last is at the halyard exit point. All three of these are above the center of bouancy and max drag so they tend to keep the bow down. The load at the halyard which is about 1/3 of the total load is 45' above the waterline on my boat. That is one very large crowbar to keep the bow from lifting with he waves.
I discovered this when I was on a cruise to Princess Louisa Inlet and needed to get back for work. Coming out of Pender Harbor into the Strait of Georgia heading for Secret Cove we were faced with 35 knots of wind from the SSW which put it about 30º of the starboard bow. The swell was steep and we were only able to make about 1.5 knots at full throttle. We would rise on every wave and slam off the top which would almost bring us to a stop. I told my wife that we would either need to put out some jib to get enough power or turn back and wait for the wind to subside. We ended up unrolling the jib about 6’ and sheeted in hard. I added just a bit of the lazy sheet to pull the sail a bit closer to the centerline and once it filled our speed went from 1.5 to 7 knots. The ride smoothed out greatly because now we were cutting through the waves instead of being lifted over them and falling off the back. The ride was so much better that my daughter went into the vee birth and took a nap. Now whenever I am faced with motoring into wind I always let out a bit of jib and let it power me through the chop.
Flattening a jib (draft) is usually a matter of cut. A lot of downhaul can move the draft forward but (a) not if the sail is already roller reefed, and (b), you can't/shouldn't roll/furl the sail with a lot of luff tension because it is really hard on the bearings. The manual will recommend releasing tension before furling.
The other common method is a foam luff, which helps suck up cloth when rolling. But that has to be done when the sail is made.
Jibs that are too full when roller reffed (most of them) make lousy heavy weather windward sails because they are too full and cannot be feathered.
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Changing the angle of attack (moving the clew towards the centerline) is a different matter. Barber haulers (named for the Barber brothers) can pull the clew in, but that is typically a smooth water strategy, when you can use a high gear. Whether that actually helps depends on the conditions, the keel, and the base sheeting angles. Many boat do not benefit from narrow angles in waves; they will just make leeway. The apparent wind in waves (slow conditions) does not move as far forward for a given pointing angle as it does in lighter winds, when the boat is moving at a greater percentage of wind speed. What you need is actually a broader angle that will give more drive. You need to shift into a lower gear to drive into waves.
In fact, hauling the clew very slightly outboard and forward, and then sheeting hard, can flatten the sail and improve drive into waves (better drive angle from the sail). You want drive (low gear), not heeling.
Google "3D leads" for more information. Typically you can bodge them together for testing without drilling holes or spending money. If they help, then tune them up.
3D leads
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All of this varies with the boat and the conditions. Keels. Base sail shape. GPS can help you figure out what actually helps you point. Pinching into waves is normally slow, but it can be smoother. It depends. Experiment.
The other common method is a foam luff, which helps suck up cloth when rolling. But that has to be done when the sail is made.
Jibs that are too full when roller reffed (most of them) make lousy heavy weather windward sails because they are too full and cannot be feathered.
----
Changing the angle of attack (moving the clew towards the centerline) is a different matter. Barber haulers (named for the Barber brothers) can pull the clew in, but that is typically a smooth water strategy, when you can use a high gear. Whether that actually helps depends on the conditions, the keel, and the base sheeting angles. Many boat do not benefit from narrow angles in waves; they will just make leeway. The apparent wind in waves (slow conditions) does not move as far forward for a given pointing angle as it does in lighter winds, when the boat is moving at a greater percentage of wind speed. What you need is actually a broader angle that will give more drive. You need to shift into a lower gear to drive into waves.
In fact, hauling the clew very slightly outboard and forward, and then sheeting hard, can flatten the sail and improve drive into waves (better drive angle from the sail). You want drive (low gear), not heeling.
Google "3D leads" for more information. Typically you can bodge them together for testing without drilling holes or spending money. If they help, then tune them up.
3D leads
----
All of this varies with the boat and the conditions. Keels. Base sail shape. GPS can help you figure out what actually helps you point. Pinching into waves is normally slow, but it can be smoother. It depends. Experiment.
It should be remembered that the technique I was discussing was motor sailing directly upwind in a big blow in leu of motor only. The tight wind angle does not need to keep the boat moving. Its purpose is to prevent the bow from rising on the waves and pounding off the back side. As I said, the first time I tried it, I was in 35kts with about 65 miles of fetch. The depth for most of that distance was 500' to 1000' but came to 100' in the bay I was coming out of. This produced square waves with a 5'-6' height and a 4 to 5 second period. On each wave, the boat would rise up and fall off the back side, and each time would almost come to a complete stop. I was next to Hunter 30 in our group, and I was able to see the first foot of their keel at the tops of the waves. I was making 1.7kts on the gps at WOT. After I rolled out the bit of jib, sheeted it tight, the speed went to over 7kts, and the bow no longer went up over the waves. I was cutting through the waves with the crest passing down the side decks at the tops of the lifelines or 24" above deck. The ride got so smooth that my teenage daughter climbed up into the v-berth and took a nap.
The reason this is so dramatic is because the pull of the sail is so high above water [masthead] that it acts like a huge crowbar to prevent the bow from rising. I have explained this to many sailors [on this forum and elsewhere] and had many who flatly said it would not work. On the other hand, the few who have actually tried it have told me that it is a game changer.
^^ Motor sailing at an angle can indeed ease the the ride and steady progress. Tiny sails and just a little motor, working together.
One thing to consider is that engines have a maximum heel angle for steady motoring, usually related to oil and the location of the sump. Check the manual and watch the angle of heel. Obviously, not a multihull issue.
One thing to consider is that engines have a maximum heel angle for steady motoring, usually related to oil and the location of the sump. Check the manual and watch the angle of heel. Obviously, not a multihull issue.
Aside from sailing techniques, other things include:
-A good jackline system to keep you on the boat. There are several different approaches, but make sure it keeps you on the boat, not dragging alongside. It is essential you can go forward safely in an emergency.
-Good handholds in the cockpit. My boat is poor this way, I only have the bimini frame and lifelines. The toe rail isn't comfortable to hold on to. For now I add some loops of line attached to the toe rail, but I need something better.
-Prep the boat for heavy weather even if you don't expect it, especially the interior. I'm ashamed at how many times I've gone out in light winds, only to have it pick up and then I hear a crash from the cabin because I forgot to secure something.
I had an entire bucket of desiccant beads that I swore I was going to take care of all season long, spill all of the cabin sole. Now they're in every nook an cranny!
The M25XP spec lists 15º max engine angle which is not a problem with the tiny bit of sail.