Strategies and techniques for solo heavy weather sailing

rgranger · Oct 2, 2025

Sounds like you reacted appropriatly and then performed the requisite postmortum analysis.

To contribute to the question you asked... Here is a personal story. A strategy I learned the hard way and "on-the-fly" was to keep the sail plan balanced. This keeps the boat moving forward with sufficient power to punch through the waves.

I remember a time when I was sailing a 22' boat across the Albemarle sound. My son and I were on a week-long cruise. The wind was stiff so we left our anchorage under jib alone. It was a hanked on jib. As we left the anchorage we encountered very square, closely spaced waves that were sometimes breaking. It was a long fetch over rather shallow water and we were getting hammered by short & steep waves... making very poor time. This boat had a rolling boom so I could "reef" the main as I saw fit. I switched out my headsail for my "storm jib", rolled out about 1/3 of the headsail and we started moving forward and slicing THROUGH the waves instead of bashing over them. We played with the balance of the reef on the main until the boat was moving forward at hull speed. We were definitly getting wet as we sliced through the waves but we were no longer getting bashed. My son was about 9 at the time.... he loved the spray coming over the bow and insisted on holding the tiller most of the day.

Later in the day we overtook another boat sailiing under headsail only and I could see from a distance how most of that boats motion was up and down instead of forward. Seeing that after what we just experienced really cemented in my mind the importance of getting balance between your sails. Reefing is definitly part of the equation in heavy air but it is only PART of the equation.

thinwater · Oct 2, 2025

Project_Mayhem said:
I went out yesterday for a quick sail in what was supposed to be 2' swells. It turned out to be 3-6' with 15-25kts of wind. While the boat and myself handled it OK, my tack was anything but graceful. I was flying a reefed furling genoa. During my tack the force of the wind got the best of me. The line slid through my hand a bit before pulling my hand toward the winch. During this my finger was knicked by the edge of the winch. Lesson learned - gloves should have been worn and I should probably have gotten more wraps on the winch earlier.

What I'm really interested in, is hearing what techniques you guys use when the wind and waves pick up?

It sounds like you were using a pilot with autotack function? Good. If not, get one.

Timing is everything. Practice this in blocks. The jib needs to come across as the wind crosses the bow so that you can get it sheeted in JUST as it can fill (hold back just enough so the wind helps pop it through, but only just enough). Minimal grinding. After hauling hand over hand with a single turn on the winch (more turns is asking for overrides when hauling fast), the MOMENT the load increases throw on a second or third turn and have the handle at the ready (but not in before adding the turns because that would make adding turns awkward). You have to be able to throw the turns on quickly, easily, and safely (keep the fingers well away). The trick is adding the turns at the right time and keeping tension on the tail while doing this. Then it is smooth. There should be a good handle-stash spot within easy reach of winch.

Easing the main a little just as the bow passes the wind can help the boat accelerate and not go into irons. One less thing to worry about or mess up. If you can pull the traveler above the centerline at the start of the tack that is a good alternative, and also helps speed the turn with less rudder.

----

Also a good point about reefing. It's easy to roll up a little jib, but this can lead to imbalance. Unless the overpowering is very slight or only for a few miles, reefing the main and jib in concert will usually give better balance, and give the option of rolling the jib further. I would have reefed the main coming out of the marina, and then based on how it felt, let out some jib. You can always let out more jib.

dLj · Oct 2, 2025

I'm not sure I can really answer your question. I have found it's rather boat specific. Thinwater just just answered with some good guidelines. One thing I will add is, I think as everything is moving faster, wind, waves, the environment, we tend to feel we need to move faster. I feel the opposite is needed. Slow yourself down. Look at where the waves are coming from and how they will affect your tack. Make sure you have all lines ready and everything is set before you start the maneuver. Keep things under control. Think through each step you are going to need to do before you start the tack. Then execute.

dj

Tally Ho · Oct 2, 2025

When I am in sporty conditions, like you I often fly a reefed headsail only.

I have found that an extra wrap or 2 on the sheets helps a lot…on the working sheet, it allows me to get the line out of the self-tailing jaws without having the line pull my hand back towards the winch. The stronger the wind, the more wraps on the winch I like to use.
Similarly, before my tack, I put a few wraps of the lazy sheet on the winch…so when I start my tack, I can quickly pull the sheet tight and the. Let the wraps hold it so I can get the line in the self-tailing jaws without having g to use brute force to hold the line (and risk having the force pull the line through my hands. Again, the stronger the wind, the more wraps I use. Also, I like to try and get the sheet Pulled in pretty tight before the wind totally catches the sail. That reduces the amount of winching I have to do on the new tack (and prevents flogging).

Finally, I experimented with jibbing the other day in windy conditions, flying just my jib and I was staying close to the arena, so lots of tacking. The jibe was actually way smoother than a tack, and I think easier to control. Practice the jibe the ne t time you are out (without the main up) and see if works for you. In strong winds, I won’t jibe if I have the main up (unless absolutely necessary). But with just the Genoa up, particularly reefed in strong winds, a jibe may be the answer.

Greg

Davidasailor26 · Oct 2, 2025

In heavier air I run 2 turns on the lazy sheet and 4 on the working sheet. With the 2 turns I’m able to pull the new sheet in quickly and have not had any overrides. With 3 turns I have had overrides in some conditions. After I get the slack out I add the extra two turns, and that’s enough to prevent any slipping with minimal tension on the tail. In most conditions 3 turns is enough to prevent slip, but above 20 knots 4 seems to work better. When releasing the old sheet I just pull upward on the tail. That lets all the wraps off without needing to bring my hands close to the danger zone around the winch.

dLj · Oct 2, 2025

I am not familiar with your specific autopilot but I'd be surprised if it doesn't have an auto tack function.

dj

Tally Ho · Oct 2, 2025

Project_Mayhem said:
I have a Raymarine P70 control head and I believe an ACU-100. I'm not sure if it has an autotack function. I took a quick look on Raymarine's website and only saw installation manuals. If it doesn't, could such a feature be added by using a tablet as a controller? Seems like a pretty easy feature for a developer to code

If you have -1 and -10 degree buttons (port), and +1 and +10 degree buttons (STB), try pressing the 2 port or starboard buttons at the same time. On my Raymarine St6000, that starts the auto tack. So to tack to port, press -1 and -10 buttons at the same time and release.

Greg

capta · Oct 2, 2025

If you get over wrap when pulling in a sheet on a winch, your lead to the winch is not correct. If you notice many winches are set on their base with a wedge. The fairlead from the sheet's block to the winch is just as important as the fairlead from the clew to that block on the rail or inboard on a track. Adding a second block after the first one could solve the override problem. Using a slightly heavier line, could make the line more comfortable to handle, as a side benefit.

BarryL · Oct 2, 2025

Hello,

As mentioned by DLJ, when wind and conditions speed up, you need to slow down. Think more and move less.

Think each maneuver through before you start. Plan your next move carefully and completely. Execute the plan then think about any adjustments you need to make the next time you do the maneuver.

For example. you're beating your way upwind in 'sporty' conditions. You will need to tack in the next few minutes. Prepare by ensuring the lazy sheet is run properly, pull the slack out of the sheet and put 2-3 wraps on the winch. Center your traveler or even lower it a little. Check the tail of the loaded sheet. Will it run freely when you cast the line off? I like to run the tail to make sure there are no kinks. Look ahead before you tack. Are there any hazards around that you need to be aware of? When you're on the new tack will you be clear of other boats? What waves are approaching? Time your tack so you won't be crossing a large wave. TACK SLOWLY. As soon as the boat is head to wind release the working sheet and pull the lazy sheet. The goal is to get the sail pulled in as much as possible before the sail fills and gets loaded. Then put the sail in the self tailor. When on your new course trim the headsail and then make any fine adjustments on the traveler. Review the last maneuver. What worked well? What could be improved upon?

Steering upwind in big seas is challenging and takes a lot of skill. You need to actively steer around the waves instead of just holding your course and bashing into the waves. Sometimes you need to sail a little lower than normally so the boat is powered up has speed to get through the waves.

And good for you for going out is challenging conditions and practicing.

Barry

thinwater · Oct 2, 2025

dLj said:
I'm not sure I can really answer your question. I have found it's rather boat specific. Thinwater just just answered with some good guidelines. One thing I will add is, I think as everything is moving faster, wind, waves, the environment, we tend to feel we need to move faster. I feel the opposite is needed. Slow yourself down. Look at where the waves are coming from and how they will affect your tack. Make sure you have all lines ready and everything is set before you start the maneuver. Keep things under control. Think through each step you are going to need to do before you start the tack. Then execute.

dj

^^ This is the number one rule for singlehanders. Plan it through and get it right the first time.

Re. adding and removing turns.

Before starting the tack I remove the working sheet from the tailer (handle out). It should NOT be highly loaded or you did not put enough turns on it. The tailer should never be holding more than you can hand tail easily with one hand. Then I remove one turn without letting the line slip. This will require a firm grip, but often it makes the release smoother (with full turns you will have to fool with removing turns during the tack, which is awkward).
As the sheet is released, do NOT let it fly in strong winds. It will tangle. You can let go once you get some tension on the new working sheet.
Add the turns to the working winch before you put the handle in. Yes, you will probably have to add one more turn after grinding some. I generally hand tail for the first bit so that I can more easily add another turn. But if your timing is good, there should be very little grinding; the sheet should come in just as the sail can first fill.

Tip. If the winches are so far apart that you can't reach them both without running around, after step one, put the sheet back in the self tailer, but wrap the sheet around the wrong side of the winch so that when you pull from your position at the leeward winch it winds right out of the tailer. But still hold on to the tail.

Lots of practice, perfecting one step at a time, while thinking about how they all fit together. Perhaps the main thing to watch is the rate of turn, so that every step is timed to match the slow change in wind direction.

High Current · Oct 3, 2025

Too much tension on the un-loading sheet and/or pulling in too early is how you get hung up on the shrouds. I un-cleat and hold the loaded sheet until it slacks, then take it most of the way off the winch and let it run free. If you let it go too early, the wind pulls more line out, and there's a lot more to whip around when it starts flogging.

On my C34, the jib sheets are fed aft of the winch through a turning block, and the sheet would often get kinked / stuck in the block. I found that leaving a half turn around the winch keeps it fed to the block from the correct angle and prevents the hang-up. But I think the friction of the block helps limit the free/flailing sheet length when I let go; without it I would probably leave one full turn on the winch.

I don't start pulling the new sheet until the wind has already crossed the bow, so I'm not forcing the sail across, just taking up slack. On my C34, two turns on the winch is just right: three can cause overrides, while one is not enough for me to hold the sail.

I'm also a newly minted member of the "use the main sail" club. I had back to back heavy days beating to weather last weekend. First day I tried the jib-only approach (wasn't properly prepared to reef, and was caught by surprise when the winds suddenly exceeded the forecast). I felt pretty beat up and was getting soaked by the spray. Constantly fighting the line between flogging and being over-powered, even though I wasn't moving all that fast. The boat kept trying to round up into lobster buoys. I had a couple of failed tacks where I stalled out before I could get across. Most importantly, I couldn't heave-to to fix / adjust things, such as figuring out how to set that reef!

Got into harbor, reassessed, set up a proper double-reef in the main, and got a chance to try again the next day. Huge difference all around. It was easier to point and tack, and I was able to make the jib smaller and therefore easier to handle. Sailed faster and more upright and didn't notice the waves so much. I back-winded the jib by accident once while adjusting the furler and quite appreciated lying hove-to for a couple of minutes while I caught my breath.

Lesson learned. I'll save jib-only for when I'm running and/or lazy.

Hayden Watson · Oct 4, 2025

first off, I never sail in any wind without my sailing gloves.

I also love heavy air sailing and have soloed my Mk2 in +30kts too many times over the past 27-years to count. I have seen +50kts on the anemometer a couple of times and the C30 handles it very well. She has never left me frightened.

Most of the time I sail it is just me and the Admiral, and she only helps with the sailing when we are racing because in cruising mode, I can do everything by myself. Given that I am now 67, I have set Papillon up for easy short-handed sailing and have the 1st and 2nd reef set up with single-line-reefing from the cockpit.

Thinwater gave an excellent process and matches mine with one exception. I preload the new winch with all three wraps and into the tailer before tacking. I also have also moved the locking winch handle to it before the tack. The line pulls in through the tailer with minimal resistance, and I never get overrides. The secrete to override free hauling of the sheet is a continuous smoot pull instead of a series of fast jerks. If your winch sings "zing, zing, zing" it will override. If it sings "whirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr" no override. This way, I can haul the line, drop the tail and start cranking the handle with no loss of time. This lets me get the sail trimmed faster before it loads up. Makes my poor old shoulders very happy.

I have the same auto pilot and do all of my tack from in front of the wheel.

I get everything ready at the winches.
drop the traveler down to the correct spot for the new tack [on my boat that is about 3" below center].
Then I reach back, press the +/+10 or -/-10 buttons
As the wheel starts to turn, I unwrap the old sheet from the tailer and hold the line until the jib just starts to invert and then spin all three wraps off the winch but leave the last 1/4 turn [line off the front side of the drum] This make the drum work as a turning post with add just a touch of friction and greatly reduces the likelihood of a hockle at the turning block.
As soon as the line is released, I take the new sheet and haul it hand-over-hand so that it comes in with a constant speed to prevent override.
When the sheet loads to the point where I cannot single hand pull it, I drop the line and crank as fast as I can on high speed until I stall out and then switch to low speed and finish the trim.

Doing it this way, I seldom get a hockle, no overrides and very little cranking because most of the sheet is pulled in before the sail loads up.

thinwater · Oct 4, 2025

Project_Mayhem said:
...Unless I have a safe means of going forward to fold the sail, I avoid using the main in heavy waves

This is a challenging statement.

There is always a safe way forward or the boat should not leave the dock. Really.
A well-reefed main and small jib gives the best balance, particularly in waves.
As High Current pointed out, you can't feather with a jib the way you can with a battened main. No flogging.
A jib that is flat enough for heavy weather work (and they must be so that you can feather) does not provide enough drive on its own in waves. A single sail does not give as much drive, down low, as a pair that can create a slot.

In fact, many boat sail better with main alone. Reef it deeply. Also, drop the traveler a bit because there is no jib in front of it to turn the wind; keeping the traveler centered is a common mistake. Then singlehanded tacking is really simple; good speed and lay the wheel over.

If singlehanding (or crewed) and tacking is just not working in waves, start the engine for a few minutes and let it run low revs. That will give just a little push. No need to be a hero.

Finally, furling the jib in a strong wind with no main to blanket it can be tough.

The only time I sail jib-only is running or reaching in true storm conditions where going up wind is not an option anyway.t

Hayden Watson · Oct 4, 2025

thinwater said:
This is a challenging statement.

There is always a safe way forward or the boat should not leave the dock. Really.

A well-reefed main and small jib gives the best balance, particularly in waves.

As High Current pointed out, you can't feather with a jib the way you can with a battened main. No flogging.

A jib that is flat enough for heavy weather work (and they must be so that you can feather) does not provide enough drive on its own in waves. A single sail does not give as much drive, down low, as a pair that can create a slot.

In fact, many boat sail better with main alone. Reef it deeply. Also, drop the traveler a bit because there is no jib in front of it to turn the wind; keeping the traveler centered is a common mistake. Then singlehanded tacking is really simple; good speed and lay the wheel over.

If single handing (or crewed) and tacking is just not working in waves, start the engine for a few minutes and let it run low revs. That will give just a little push. No need to be a hero.

Finally, furling the jib in a strong wind with no main to blanket it can be tough.

The only time I sail jib-only is running or reaching in true storm conditions where going up wind is not an option anyway.t

Many good points but on a C30, in many conditions, it will point to within maybe 10º to 15º of a beat with genoa only. I have been able to point at 55ºT in 15kts with my 143% genoa which is often all that I need. What I do loose is the ability to accelerate after a tack. I need to tack to a broad reach and then slowly sneak back up into the wind.

When I need to go to windward in a heavy blow, I will often motor sail with just a tiny scrap of the genoa out. I put out about 6' and pull the sheet in tight. I then pull the lazy sheet a bit so that it further flattens the sail and pulls the clew to about 12" off the centerline. I then steer the boat so that the jib just fills. doing this, greatly increases the speed and comfort when motoring into a big blow.

dLj · Oct 4, 2025

Hayden Watson said:
I put out about 6' and pull the sheet in tight. I then pull the lazy sheet a bit so that it further flattens the sail and pulls the clew to about 12" off the centerline.

I don't understand how this works. If I pull on my lazy sheet it does not pull the sail flatter. Perhaps because I've a double head sail sloop. And it certainly does not pull the sail closer to the centerline... But again, it may be because of our different rigs.

dj