Storm Taticts

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Apr 2, 2012
1
Catalina 27 Tall Rig Panama City Beach
I plan on taking a blue water cruise next year. Does anyone have any advice for handling heavy weather on a 1985 27' with a fin keel?
Has anyone made any long distance trips in one of these boats with good advise?
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,360
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
The short answer: reef, reef, reef, and reef, learn to heave to and forereach.

The longer answer: check out stuff on the web under blue water cruising and try some books (there have been many - many are actually called "Storm Water....tactics, ideas, etc." Singlehanding books are also very good.

You might want to tell us where, how long, what gear you have, engine, crew...you know, important kinda stuff for us to even begin to help you.

Each of the Forums on this board has a great "How to ask a question..." ideas.

http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/announcement.php?f=62&a=6
 

gpdno

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May 16, 2011
144
Watkins 27 Venice
Learn how to heave to. Practice reefing. How many reef points does your main have? You should have at least two. Is your headsail on a fuller or hanked on? You you have a storm jib, have you deployed it. What about a trisail.

Go sailing in bad weather :) reading it a book or watching a DVD is great but at some point you need to do it. Go out in bad weather, heave to, put in a reef, sail around in big waves, and have fun
 

Jon_E

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Mar 19, 2011
119
Catalina 27 Marina del Rey
Anything I could say would be found in this book, which I have read twice. Great source.

http://www.amazon.com/Storm-Tactics...4472/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336999677&sr=8-1

For modifications to the Catalina 27, Patrick Childress sailed one around the world after making some pretty hefty modifications. I can't find the link to the site that has photos, but I found this recap of the mods:

# # #
Alterations to "Juggernaut" a Catalina 27 Built in 1973, 271108,
Traditional Interior Plan, Standard Rig, Shoal Draft

1) Boarded outboard engine well to mount self steering vane.
Mounted Navik self steering.

2) Strengthened starboard transom to accept outboard engine
bracket. Installed one inch thick mahogany plank on inside of
starboard transom.

3) Installed four large cockpit drains horizontally through aft
end of cockpit and piped through to transom.

4) Made shelf in large cockpit compartment extending full length
of compartment to hold gallon size containers and utilize upper
section of wasted space in compartment.

5) Installed 3/4" wood frames around base of fuel tanks in
lazerette and installed tie downs.

6) Reworked companion way entrance. Raised threshold wood to 2
1/2" above fiber glass threshold to force water running down slats
into cockpit. Made overhang on hatch 3/4" thicker to overhang
companion way slats.

7) Made new hatch runners for tighter fit. Installed plastic tabs
on front of hatch to help reduce spray entering hatch runners and into
cabin.

8) Cut fiber glass section from rear of quarter berth to open new
storage compartment under rear section of quarter berth.

9) Bulkheaded all storage compartments beneath berths.

10) Moved electrical switch box to high inside quarter berth.

11) Opened fiber glass panel behind port and starboard bunk back
rest for added storage.

12) Installed sliding doors for starboard shelf over bunk.

13) Drilled drain holes from all storage compartments under bunks
to drain water onto main salon floor and into bilge.

14) Installed Whale foot pump for salt water at galley sink.

15) Made splash boarder around sink.

16) Installed aft lower shroud chain plates rather than using deck
plates. I first tried installing deck plates twice as large and thick
but that only threatened to pull a larger chunk of side decking out of
the boat.

17) Installed chart rack, dish rack, radio racks, medicine
cabinet.

18) Made door for hanging locker.

19) Made door for small locker over the head.

20) Cut new access panel for storage under V-berth at port side of
walk in area.

21) Made front vertical panel for walk in section of V-berth so
this otherwise useless area could be used for storage.

22) Changed stove burners from alcohol to kerosene. The threads
are the same so it is a simple matter of unscrewing the old burner and
screwing in the new one. Still, propane would be the best stove fuel.

23) Installed double head stays set on Y plate with one turn
buckle at bottom of plate. It would have been better to have one turn
buckle for each head stay.

24) Installed heavier upper and lower aft shrouds. Forward shrouds
stayed the same.

25) Installed open faced turnbuckles of a stronger caliber.

26) Installed double back stays with back stay adjuster.

27) Removed forward bolt on rudder bracket going through tiller
and replaced with two stainless steel hose clamps. A hole through a
solid wood (non laminated) tiller, at this point, creates a weak spot
where the tiller can (and did) snap under stress.

28) Installed half inch bolt through rudder post cap attaching cap
to rudder shaft. Original bolt is to small diameter and eventually
wears an oblong hole.

29) Moved life lines from interfering with anchor line.

30) Installed hand rails and grab rails inside cabin and on deck.

31) Made inside companion way slat guides wider than outside
guides to facilitate installation of slats in a choppy sea way.

32) Made three companion way slats rather than four. The top slat
can then be inserted in a louvered position to deflect rain over the
other slats keeping cabin dry and allowing ventilation. It is easier
and quicker to insert three slats than to sort out four.

33) Caulked around water tank filler cap at deck to stop leaks.

34) Caulked all bolts going through deck to stop leaks.

35) Replaced corroded aluminum main anchor cleat backing plate
with large 3/4" teak block.

36) Installed galley harness to free both hands while cooking in a
seaway.

37) Installed straps to hold SCUBA tank to top of quarter berth.

38) Installed cam cleats for jib sheets.

39) Rerouted icebox drain hose from sink through-hull to drain
into bilge. Sea water would back up into icebox from through-hull.

40) Installed medium duty electric bilge pump in bilge fitted with
float switch and manual override. Installed large capacity electric
pump with float switch in protected area under cockpit for extreme
emergencies in case cabin became flooded.

41) From the outside, at the hull deck join, caulked with 3M-5200
sealant to fill void behind rubrail. This was needed to stop leaks at
the hull/deck join.

42) Installed 12 volt cabin fans
# # #
 

Faris

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Apr 20, 2011
232
Catalina 27 San Juan Islands
As mentioned before, the single most important consideration is reducing sail early and conservatively. Unless your boat has been beefed up, it can't take extremely high loads. Not to worry provided your rigging is in good shape and you keep up a conservative amount of sail.

The only real differences between "blue water" sailing and coastal sailing are that you are more likely to be dealing with greater forces, and you are farther from help should you need it.

You can mitigate much of the first risk by knowing your boat well - knowing what it does under severe conditions, and by carrying less sail than you think you need. (Most of the time, particularly in stiffer winds, you'll actually make better speeds with less sail.) Avoid the temptation to wait a bit and see if it lets up, or to carry a bit of extra sail to make good time.

Heaving to, as mentioned, is also an important skill. It helps you mitigate the risk of being a long ways from help. Heaving to lets you tend to matters other than sailing even in some of the worst conditions.

Of course, there is a great deal that goes into boat, skipper, and crew preparation, but that information is widely available. I would say that if you don't have a pretty good idea of what is involved in that regard, it may be a bit premature to venture out. I'm assuming you're looking for advice specific to your boat (or boats like it).

Also, bear in mind that your boat is not quite as stable as many more "bullet proof" blue water boats. It is not unstable by any means, but it does mean that you will get knocked around a bit if you don't pay attention to the wave action. You've got decent freeboard, but not so much that you can be caught not paying attention when a big wave hits. Staying dry is largely a function of staying aware. But, in open water, what's coming can often be blocked by the wave right next to you, so ...

Make sure your hatches are capable of reasonably tight seals, and keep them closed whenever seas pick up. Also, I'm not sure about your boat in particular, but on mine (a 1972), the cockpit drainage is a bit lacking. Two scuppers drain into the engine well which drains overboard through a single 1.25" hole. Lots of opportunities for that system to become ineffective. If I was venturing out, I think I'd make that drainage a bit more liberal. One small thing you can do is simply remove the scupper covers in the cockpit. This effectively doubles your drainage rate. (You can put them back in later.)
 
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