Yeah, maybe. Engineers are pretty conservative to begin with. Adding another safety factor on top of theirs isn't necessarily beneficial. Space, weight, and wallet constraints all need to be considered. I know this guy who went a size larger on his windlass install, and found there was no end to the cascading impactsAnd a pinch of reserve.![]()
The engineers might be conservative, but the boat builders picking wire gauge and connectors based on price aren’t.Yeah, maybe. Engineers are pretty conservative to begin with. Adding another safety factor on top of theirs isn't necessarily beneficial. Space, weight, and wallet constraints all need to be considered. I know this guy who went a size larger on his windlass install, and found there was no end to the cascading impacts.
The OP doesn't say if anything else is connected to the start battery. For example, a bilge pump or CO monitor would strongly suggest using a bigger battery than the mimimum required.
And if you have room, make it a group 27.The engineers might be conservative, but the boat builders picking wire gauge and connectors based on price aren’t.
A group 24 is a pretty common choice for engines from around that up to at least 30hp.
That will work for your engine's size. Get a good charging system, and it should last 3-5 years.I will be going with a group 24 starting battery.
Or more than that. We’re at 10 years with a group 24 AGM starting a 3YM30, and it still shows good on a load tester.That will work for your engine's size. Get a good charging system, and it should last 3-5 years.