Starting an engine that sat for 3 years

[JDE]

I’m relative new to sailing and have only used outboard auxiliary power. I will soon be buying new boat (Seaward 25) that includes a 1994 era Yanmar 1 cylinder engine. The owner has reported that it has not been started for three years while it sat stored in his barn in WI. He claimed no issues and said that it ran well when last used.
I am seeking advice on how I should best prepare to start her up. What preparations/steps should be taken? Any inspections I should undertake before I purchase? Propeller and shaft concerns?

Zero experience here.

Thanks in advance.

 

[capta]

First, change the oil, tranny fluid, and water (if fresh water cooled) and check and lube (I'd change it just on general principle) the impeller. Fuel and fuel filters should be replaced. I would imagine you need new batteries.
If you can turn the prop by hand, see if the cutlass bearing is tight on the shaft (no wiggle). Make sure the gear shift and throttle work easily. It might be prudent to change the thermostat, or at least test it.
Check that every seacock works easily and check the hoses.

 

[Tally Ho]

1 cylinders can often be turned over by hand if you have a crank handle. If it was me, after changing fluids and impeller as @capta suggested, I would Try to turn it over by hand first...make sure the piston isn’t frozen.

Greg

 

[JDE]

Good suggestions. I found the Yanmar 1GM10 manual online. Packed with lots of useful information. Go figure. There’s specific mention of the manual cranking process after it’s been sitting for an extended period to distribute lubricant.

I plan on replacing fuel. Wondering about how to drain the entire system. The PO said he routinely used diesel fuel stabilizer. Wondering how badly fuel deteriorates and if some small amount of residual 3 y.o. fuel is a problem further in.

Next up, the stuffing box and cutlass bearing. I know nothing. Do these have seals that can dry out? Lubrication? Honestly, how do these things even work? How to you keep a 3000 rpm rotating shaft penetrating your hull from leaking. Mysterious.

 

[garymalmgren]

Hi JDE
Zero experience here.
I am guessing that you have no experience in diesel engines.
You probably have a Yanmar 1GM10.
These engines are tough, simple and very reliable when running properly.
First thing is a manual. Read it! It will fill you in on the essential maintanance to keep your little donk purring.

Yanmar 1GM Marine Diesel Engine Service Repair Manual

Yanmar 1GM Marine Diesel Engine Service Repair Manual - Download as a PDF or view online for free

www.slideshare.net

Check and see that the piston isn't siezed in the barrel for a start. The is a decompression lever (refer to manual) and a cranck handle. If it turns over you are in business. If not, start to count your dollars.

Next tools. luckily you don't need any special tools.
Metric socket set (up to 23 mm or so)
Metric open end ring spanner set. Up to 20 mm
Metric open end spanner set. Up to 20 mm.
Metric allen key set.
Plus and minus screwdrivers.
Hammer and drift punch. and a few other things but all in all not a lot.

Now starting an engine that has been sitting for three years.
If you just connect to a fully charged battery and hit the starter, you might start it but you will also create some problems for yourself.
So take a step back and prepare.

Take it for granted that the fuel in the tank, lines and filters is contaminated (with water through condensation, rust particles, and a growth that thrives in diesel fuel under the right conditions).
This means you will need to drain all of the fuel. Work out how much is in there and prepare containers, funnels, gloves, rags and whatever else you will need. Drain the whole system. If there is an inspection cover on the tank, remove it and clean inside the tank with rags. This is not just being done to get the engine started, but to ensure that you have no fuel problems in the future ( out of sight of land). This a messy , smelly job at this stage but will only need to be done once if done properly.

Replace fuel filters, add new fuel and bleed the system. This is something that you MUST learn, so you might as well get the knowledge early. Luckily you have a single cylinder engine so it not so difficult. but you must do it correctly.

Ok fuel system done and familiarized.

The engine is cooled by sea water drawn in through a sea cock. Then to a filter and the pump.
The pump has a rubber impeller inside that could have deteriorated ( see manual,) check it.
Again this is a must to know and to be able to do.

Cooling Ok.

Diesel engines don't have spark pugs, The fuel is detonated by the heat generated by the compressed fuel and air. This means the engine has very high compression. To start it needs to turn over quite fast to generate that heat.
So as mentioned by Capta, get your self a new battery and have it fully charged.

That's it. Well I hope so anyway.

gary

PS while I was writing this you dug up a manual. Good work!!

 

[JDE]

Great advice Gary, thank you. I can tell you've been down this road a few times. Really helps orient me to the tasks.

Im getting a new battery has part of the deal. The PO seems well organized. I wouldn’t be surprised if he has spare parts and maintenance supplies. Will be coordinating with him soon.

 

[Benny17441]

I plan on replacing fuel. Wondering about how to drain the entire system. The PO said he routinely used diesel fuel stabilizer.

Before getting into the question of whether the fuel is bad or the tank is fouled I'd like to take it out of the equation when trying to start a long sitting engine. I would use a 3 1/2 outboard tank filed with fresh diesel and connect it to the fuel line ahead of the lift pump. Once I got the engine running well then I would turn back to the fuel and the tank. My first action when addressing the unknown condition of the fuel and tank , I would have the fuel polished. Check and see if there are any fuel polishing services in your area. This will remove any water, bacteria clusters and sediments from the fuel. Fuel polishing is done by a machine which pumps the fuel out at high volume, filters it and returns it into a cleaner form into the tank; the process is repeated a few times until water and sediments are no longer detected, This process also helps to clean the tank of the looser sedimentation or globs. The other alternative would be to use a 12V electric fuel pump to draw the fuel out of the tank and replace but that does very little to remove sedimentation from the bottom of the tank. You can try it and latter on if you experience any clogging problems then you could go for a tank cleaning.

 

[jaysweet]

I just started my 2GM20F, which sat for 3.5 years. Before starting (on jack stands, i.e., out of the water), I did the following:

1) put in a new battery (the old one refused to take a charge)

2) changed the impeller and cleaned up the inside of the raw water pump a bit with some fine emery cloth

3) took the raw water hose off the thu-hull, added a length of garden hose (w/ double male hose barb connector and some clamps) to extend it so I can put the end in a bucket of water

4) checked the oil and coolant levels

5) checked the belt tensions

Started it on the second crank (make sure you give it a bit of throttle, and don't crank too long). I wouldn't over think this. Your fuel isn't necessarily bad after 3 years if it has been treated with stabilizer: mine has been fine. On my second trip out after launching, I did add 5 gallons of fresh diesel. After the initial start and 1 minute run, I have changed oil and filter, and will change the fuel filter soon.

Good luck!
Jay

 

[JDE]

Yes, I have read that aging fuel tanks can be the source of much grief. Didn’t know about fuel polishing, interesting. I’ll look into that. This little boat uses a portable fuel tank tucked neatly in the aft quarter of the cockpit. May prove easy to manage or replace if needed.
Received a copy of the winterization sequence undertaken by the owner. I’ll upload an excerpt regarding the engine for consideration. This outlines the fall treatment. I wonder about undoing this for spring.

 

[CarlN]

Wow! That’s the sort of PO you want. 3 1/2 years isn’t that long for a properly stored engine. I’d go with JaySweet’s approach and basically start it. If the engine doesn’t crank, stop and get a mechanic. And stop cranking after 10 seconds it doesn’t start - the fuel system probably has to be bled (As mentioned above). I assume the PO in steps A-R replaced the oil, oil filter, and fuel filter. If not, do that since it’s needed with any storage. And spring for a new battery instead of trying to make due with the old one - especially if the date on the battery is five years or more. Any crap in the tank will be caught by the fuel filter. I would just empty the tank into a jerry jug and look in the fill opening. If it looks fairly clean, pour a half tank back in and top off with fresh. Then as you run that down refill from the jerry jug (assuming the engine has been running fine) Have some spare filters on board. If you clog a filter, replace the tank. But there’s a good chance it’s OK because the PO was so fastidious.

 

[JDE]

Yeah he’s pretty organized. Good inspiration. Here’s a shot of how the boat has been stored in winter each season since 1998. Note the trailer up on jacks. This is not a story of tragic neglect but how one love got overshadowed by the wife’s pontoon boat.

I’m feeling good about the prospects here.

 

[jaysweet]

Yeah he’s pretty organized. Good inspiration. Here’s a shot of how the boat has been stored in winter each season since 1998. Note the trailer up on jacks. This is not a story of tragic neglect but how one love got overshadowed by the wife’s pontoon boat.

I’m feeling good about the prospects here.

I agree: given how careful your PO was, I think you'll be just fine without going to all the trouble of draining out all the old fuel. I'll admit I was thinking about hiring a fuel polishing service myself, as my fuel tank is totally inaccessible and 16 years old. But I did absolutely nothing with the fuel, and the engine has worked flawlessly. I do plan to get a cheap endoscope and have a look in the tank soon. As you say, with an external tank, you'd have a much easier time of it if you choose to ditch the old fuel, but why not try the easy way first?

 

[garymalmgren]

Hi JDE
I think you are on a winner there with the boat and the previous owner.
When I read " while it sat stored in his barn in WI "
I imagined rotten rat eaten tarp covering a boat that had been forgotten, thus my advice.
None of that (well maybe the tools) is necessary.
You will be fine with the start up

gary

 

[shemandr]

So how did the PO get that boat in that structure in that orientation? It reminds me of a Austin Powers movie.

 

[BigEasy]

I’m feeling good about the prospects here.

Nice boat! Post more pics when you have time.
With regards to the old fuel, not a problem as you have a portable tank. Discard and replenish. If you know someone who has a “Baja filter” you can filter the fuel and reuse.

 

[dLj]

Honestly, looking over everything in this thread all you need to do is change lubricants and go start the engine. Diesel fuel doesn't age like gasoline does and in three years there's nothing wrong with that fuel. The diesel fuel in my boat is three years old right now as I burn so little fuel the last time I filled it up was 3 years ago. I'm working on running it way down and refilling this year but you have nothing to worry about with that boat. You found a super deal! Congratulations!

dj

 

[BigEasy]

So how did the PO get that boat in that structure in that orientation?

Had the same thought when I saw the photo. Perhaps he built the barn around the boat!!! Would like to see a video of him extracting it.

 

[JDE]

He has two flat-bed dollies, one under each set of tires. Allows him to push it sideways.

 

[Richard19068]

Nice looking boat.
Can you get him to throw in the Harley to sweeten the deal?

 

[Tedd]

It's in a dry climate, which will reduce the risk of internal corrosion. But I would probably squirt something into the cylinders before even turning it over by hand, just in case. Or, you could run a borescope or small camera into the cylinders for a visual check. I bore-scoped a motorcycle engine that had been sitting in an unheated garage in Edmonton for a decade and found no corrosion. Dry climates are awesome! But I felt a lot more comfortable turning it over, having checked. With the transition from winter to spring you can get condensation inside, even in a dry climate.