A couple of comments:
* The photographic evidence makes it clear how he didn't see this coming. If you look closely, you can see the markings where the chain plate exited the deck -- and everything above that line looks fine. This is classic -- the damage occurs in the zone between the deck and the underside of the deck. Impossible to see in place.
* It's easy to inspect these. I've done all 6 of them on my 79 Sabre 34. Remove the cover plates, dig out the caulk, remove 6 bolts (3 in these photos), and out they come. With "telephone pole" masts like mine and probably this Pearson, you can remove any 2 of the lowers with no problem, and probably even the uppers if the lowers are in place. While you have them out, epoxy seal the balsa core!
* When you have them out, clean them with NON-AGGRESSIVE METHODS! No wire brushes, no buffing wheels. Just solvent, maybe a green scrubby by hand. You want to be sure you don't burnish over any cracks.
* You can get a dye penetrant kit from Grainger. A bit pricey ($90), a lifetime supply in one kit, a bit overkill, probably not needed (you can do almost as well with a hand held magnifying lens and good lighting). But I did it anyway.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SPOTCHECK-Dye-Penetrant-Kit-3WU63
Once you've inspected for cracks, you can clean to your hearts content with anything that you want to use. I like Bartenders Friend, and I also used a drill mounted "surface conditioner" (basically a nylon scrubby on a drill bit), but whatever works for you. My 30 year old chainplates are good for another decade, probably much more.
The most important thing is you can't find this by a simple visual inspection. It won't show up anyplace you can see it. It "lives" under the caulk. It's the same reason vinyl coated lifelines are so bad -- the vinyl both CAUSES corrosion and HIDES where it is bad!
Harry
* The photographic evidence makes it clear how he didn't see this coming. If you look closely, you can see the markings where the chain plate exited the deck -- and everything above that line looks fine. This is classic -- the damage occurs in the zone between the deck and the underside of the deck. Impossible to see in place.
* It's easy to inspect these. I've done all 6 of them on my 79 Sabre 34. Remove the cover plates, dig out the caulk, remove 6 bolts (3 in these photos), and out they come. With "telephone pole" masts like mine and probably this Pearson, you can remove any 2 of the lowers with no problem, and probably even the uppers if the lowers are in place. While you have them out, epoxy seal the balsa core!
* When you have them out, clean them with NON-AGGRESSIVE METHODS! No wire brushes, no buffing wheels. Just solvent, maybe a green scrubby by hand. You want to be sure you don't burnish over any cracks.
* You can get a dye penetrant kit from Grainger. A bit pricey ($90), a lifetime supply in one kit, a bit overkill, probably not needed (you can do almost as well with a hand held magnifying lens and good lighting). But I did it anyway.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SPOTCHECK-Dye-Penetrant-Kit-3WU63
Once you've inspected for cracks, you can clean to your hearts content with anything that you want to use. I like Bartenders Friend, and I also used a drill mounted "surface conditioner" (basically a nylon scrubby on a drill bit), but whatever works for you. My 30 year old chainplates are good for another decade, probably much more.
The most important thing is you can't find this by a simple visual inspection. It won't show up anyplace you can see it. It "lives" under the caulk. It's the same reason vinyl coated lifelines are so bad -- the vinyl both CAUSES corrosion and HIDES where it is bad!
Harry
