Spring Check Out

[JamesG161]

Although Spring is not early, today was a nice 80° sunny day on the Gulf. We began the preparations for a Safe Sailing 2018.

We always start with the seacocks, hoses, and clamps that could sink our boat or a least cause a major disruption in a nice sailing adventure.
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Look what we found, just in time.

This is a super strong, wired reinforced suction hose to the AC system. It was partially
Hidden under these hose clamps.

BION [Believe It Or Not] we had a piece of spare suction hose aboard along with new SS clamps. It was replaced immediately. The cracked piece was in compression and on the suction side making it even less obvious.

Safety check all your hoses!
Jim...

PS: All other 9 seacocks and the PYI bellow were all good to go.

 

[justsomeguy]

Skillfully avoided!

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

You make a textbook case for closing all seacocks when leaving the boat, James.

This is a super strong, wired reinforced suction hose to the AC system.

How old was that hose? All your hoses? The average working life of any hose--water, fuel, exhaust, sanitation... is about 10 years because rubber and plasticisers dry out, causing the hose to become hard, brittle and prone to cracking. If yours are at least 10 years old, it's prob'ly time to start thinking about replacing 'em all.

 

[JamesG161]

case for closing all seacocks

The AC water line is a heat pump and dehumidifier. During this winter, we needed the heat. Fortunately we check our hoses and I strongly recommend close inspections with a magnified light, at least once a year.
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I assume the hose was OEM. 17+
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Rubbers are different and are compounded with, normally, Carbon Black, and don't dry out. This appears to be Neoprene that is normally in the dark. The key, IMO, is the stress point, not age, movement or other boating fatigue. The NEW hose may be 10 years old also, but stored in the dark. This damaged OLD hose, was a key location to remove for purging/blowing the AC cooling water line.

Multiples pulls and re-clamping by the PO of my boat, was more a factor, than age of the hose. It is a semi flexible, interior lined, steel wired reinforced, vacuum rated hose.

Originally appeared to be installed making an curve and in a bind. The old [new replacement] is not in a bind.

The OLD hose was NOT hard or brittle. Rubbers may harden when exposed to high heat and/or UV, but not this hose.


Per your request.
Jim...

PS: Bowling balls are Harden Rubber. I manufactured Neoprene. Auto Neoprene radiator hoses don't require changing every 10 yrs, but inspections are recommended.

 

[kloudie1]

Good catch, Jim.. Next week is my check of hoses/systems..

 

[Dan_Y]

It's pretty amazing how often these perforated track clamps have failures. I found one that had one side of the track broken in two on the back side of a raw water hose where it was hidden. Clamp looked new except for the tiny 1/8" diameter rust spot (where a drip formed I bet) at the break. Mainsail turned me (us) on to the nonperforated AWAB hose clamp that I now use when replacing any old clamp. I typically use the blue stripe trident hose. The ends on the green striped hose that I took off the siphon break between the mixing elbow and heat exchanger were harder than the middle of the hose. Maybe they have been "heat treated" in the engine compartment! The hose is OEM from '08.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Hoses can crack, peel and split for various reasons. It usually takes years, but I've even seen new double-walled sanitation hose (Trident 101) that's been overheated to stretch it onto a fitting develop tears within months. The real lesson to be learned here is the importance of doing two things: always keep seacocks closed when away from the boat, and inspect EVERYTHING at least annually.

 

[JamesG161]

BTW, the Old hose was way over specified for its use.
It was used "probably" since it was short, maybe scrap, or bulk bought by OEM.

The New hose is for water and not high temperature, but vacuum service. It should last longer than the AC unit.

Sometimes the "better" hose is not the BEST selection.

Pick your replacement for the service needed!
Jim...

 

[JamesG161]

Clamp looked new except for the tiny 1/8" diameter rust spot (where a drip formed I bet) at the break

The hose was holding by friction, with or without the clamp. Prior deformation and repeated PULLS off the seacock caused the fatigue, crack and drip.

Jim...

 

[BigEasy]

Thanks for the reminder Jim. My hoses are at the 10 year mark; probably a good idea to change them before something catastrophic happens. Will likely haul out in March or April and plan to change out some of the thru hull fittings & valves.

BTW, took advantage of that 80 degree weather today and went sailing for the first time in a few months. Everything was stiff including in mast furler, sheets, dock lines, and me. Have lots of work to get the boat and myself back in shape!

 

[ggrizzard]

Why was the hose removed repeatedly?

 

[JamesG161]

Why was the hose removed repeatedly?

Air Conditioner cooling water line on my boat is 40+ feet long. The feed line gets slimed up and so do the condenser coils. By removing the line, you can blow out and clean the lines with shore water hose.

The Previous Owner left a special tapered nozzle to accomplish this task.
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However, I am rethinking this procedure, which on its face seemed innocent enough.

Since all of my seawaters seacocks have a strainer of the same size, I saw a replacement cap that had a garden hose connector in the top.
Just put that adapter on the strainer to do the purge. Much easier and no hose pulls.

Jim...

 

[BigEasy]

James,
I have a Groco strainer on my air conditioner water line and purchased the flushing cap that has the garden hose connector.
Works very well in flushing the air conditioner water lines of slime & sediment and also works well for purging the line of air when I forget to close the seacock valve before sailing. The flushing cap is manufactured by Trac Ecological (part # 1285A). You can order at most major online chandleries for approximately $50. Prior to having the flushing cap, I would have to remove the water line from the strainer to flush air from the line.

 

[JamesG161]

by Trac Ecological (part # 1285A)

I was looking all day for that link.
TYVM!!!

BTW my son-in-law thought we could make one from a spare cap.
Jim...

 

[BigEasy]

James,
If you visit Trac Ecological's website, note that they also sell products to aid in de-scaling the copper cooling lines on the air conditioner compressor. Have never de-scaled my unit; however, probably should to prevent a major restriction from occurring.

 

[JamesG161]

Have never de-scaled my unit

Since my Dometic [Marine Airrr uses the same cuprous/nickel as spa heaters], I put 2 tabs of these Bromine tabs for spas in the strainers. Those tabs prevent scaling too.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/SpaGuard-Brominating-Tablets-1-5-lbs/184124793

The purge and the algaecide does well.
Jim...

PS: I did see Barnacle busters too on their site.

 

[BigEasy]

How often do you use the brominating tablets?

 

[JamesG161]

When we hand brush/clean the strainers. We cleaned the AC strainer in December and left the AC unit on to heat the boat.
On Saturday, the tabs were swollen but still there and the strainer was clean.
Summer time AC use, we maybe used 10 tabs for Refrig and AC strainers.
Jim...

PS: That size bottle from Wally is still half full.