Split the Anchor Rode?

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capejt

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May 17, 2004
276
Hunter 33_77-83 New London, CT
I have a problem, and a possible solution I'd like to get your opinions on.
The problem is my anchor rode consists of 50 feet of 5/16" chain spliced to 150 feet of 5/8" Nylon 3 strand. I use a windlass which puts the rode into the forepeak. The problem is, the forepeak is only large enough to handle the chain and about 20 feet of the nylon. The rest is currently led to a bag between the v-berth.
Here's my possible solution. I was thinking that since I almost always anchor in water of around 10 foot depth, I could usually get away with the amount of rode that fits in the forepeak. I would, however, like to be able to use the remainder in deeper water, and stow it out of the way. What I'm seeking is a safe way to be able to connect the two pieces when needed.
What I've been considering is splicing (with a eye splice) either a ring or just a thimble into each end and connect them with a stainless or galvanized "quick link". What worries me about that is that the breaking strength of the link is about 4000 lbs while the rode is more like 11,000 lbs.
Any suggestions??
Thanks in advance
 
Last edited:
Oct 10, 2008
277
Catalina 445 Yorktown
Use a shackle rather than the quick link. You're right about the lower strength of the quick link and when the wind picks up, you'll want that extra peace of mind knowing the entire rode is strong. As an alternative, I think your 50' of chain is a little too much given the type of anchoring you discribe. I might suggest a 20' section of chain and the remainder as nylon rode. Regardless I what you decide, use the shackle if possible, or create a nylon to chain link.
 

Eric M

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Sep 30, 2008
159
Island Packet 35 Jacksonville
I sure hate to see a perfectly good pice of rode 150' long get cut. Another option would be to have two completely seperate pieces of 3 strand. Keep the 150' piece as you suggest in an alternate location and use a shackle and thimble to attch either the 150' piece or a shorter piece as required. It's not hard to pull 20-30 feet of 3 strand by hand before using your windlass to pull the chain once you are past the shackle.
Good Luck,
--Eric
 
Sep 25, 2008
2,288
C30 Event Horizon Port Aransas
I would not use ANY stainless that is going to touch your galvanized chain. Even if it's just lying in the locker with it wet. I used SS shackles and now have a chain with no galvanization on it, just rust. I had the anchor in the water for 3 weeks straight though. I prepared it for a hurricane, then I didn't get it pulled as soon as I could. The anchor I was using was 100 lb. ingot with a ring welded on it, no galvanization. So the chain took all the galvanic corrosion from the SS shackles. This is an extreme case, but it just goes to show you what is happening at an accelerated rate with your ground tackle.
A lot of the loss of galvanization happened while the chain and ss were just sitting in the locker. So that the chain is now completely rusted.
 
Oct 22, 2008
3,502
- Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
The real problem is the anchor locker is too small. Why not make a larger anchor locker that can contain the entire rode? Splitting the rode is a bad idea IMHO, as anything you do to split it leads to additional points of failure, that are probably much weaker than the chain or rope or the chain-to-rope splice. Also, if you have a windlass, any connection between the forward portion and the secondary portion would cause the rode to jump out of the rope/chain gypsy.

One thing that would help is dropping down to 30' or so of chain, rather than the 50' you currently have. Also, switching the three-strand out for Brait, octo-plait or one of the new nylon double braids would also help as these types of line stow more compactly than does three-strand and are stronger and more elastic in many cases. This would give you a stronger, more flexible rode that stows more compactly.

BTW, another reason not to use stainless steel is that stainless steel tends to suffer from cumulative crevice corrosion damage when kept in an oxygen deprived state. This can lead to it failing without any warning. Galvanized gear tends to rust and show distinct signs of problems before it reaches the point of failure, giving you some warning at least.
 
Dec 2, 2003
1,637
Hunter 376 Warsash, England --
Anchoring mainly in 10 feet your existing chain length should suffice for all but a strong blow so why not just put a galvanized shackle on the end of the chain and have a few feet of rope to a strong point in the locker.
Then splice an eye into the long rode with a galv or plastic shackle and just unshackle the short strop and put the long rode on when you are in deeper water or are expecting a blow.
Yes the join won't go over the windlass gypsy but you can do this part by hand.
I have operated this way for years and also have the benefit of not having my chain lying on top of wet rope in the locker.

Regarding breaking strains will your bow cleat take 4 tons? If not then this is the weakest part so the chain to rope join should not be a worry.
 
Jan 1, 2006
8,010
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
I think maybe your problem is misunderstood. You need a connection that can go through your windlass. I haven't tried it but I don't think shackles do. Isn't that why you're talking about a quick link?
If someone knows of a chain to chain, or chain to three strand connector that can go through a windlass "Gypsy" without jamming or other bad behavior, I would like to know. I would like to add chain segments, or subtract them, or add three stand segments, or subtract them at will depending on the site, weather etc of where I anchor. If this doesn't exist, someone smarter than I should create it. Couldn't something be made that didn't weaken the "weakest link". Maybe there's even some money in it.
 
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