I want to add a spinnaker pole for a spinnaker someone just gave me. I am not sure exactly what I need. I know it needs a track for the mast, but even my West Marine Dealer wasn't sure what I needed. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thank you!
Spinnaker Track Size for Mast
- Thread starter David Harcourt
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Spinnaker pole hardware
I don't know what size boat you have, but I used the rather involved and pricey setup shown for my C310. There are simpler (and cheaper) systems using T-track, and a simple slider fitting. These are not intended to be adjusted under load. I cut my track longer than my pole, so it can be stored vertically on the front of the mast. The outboard clips into a ring on the mast base for storage. This system is Very easy to deploy. I even leave the pole lift attached full time Harken spinnaker pole car #780 with matching low-beam track, and various odds and ends. This is the smaller size, but you can get the midrange size if you need it. http://www.harken.com/hardware/adjspc.php You also may need the pole lift. Its like another halyard part way up the mast. Also a downhaul? The Harken website has a lot of information on a variety of systems.
I don't know what size boat you have, but I used the rather involved and pricey setup shown for my C310. There are simpler (and cheaper) systems using T-track, and a simple slider fitting. These are not intended to be adjusted under load. I cut my track longer than my pole, so it can be stored vertically on the front of the mast. The outboard clips into a ring on the mast base for storage. This system is Very easy to deploy. I even leave the pole lift attached full time Harken spinnaker pole car #780 with matching low-beam track, and various odds and ends. This is the smaller size, but you can get the midrange size if you need it. http://www.harken.com/hardware/adjspc.php You also may need the pole lift. Its like another halyard part way up the mast. Also a downhaul? The Harken website has a lot of information on a variety of systems.
Simpler Approach
David, I took a simpler approach. I don't race, so having the ability to adjust the spinnaker car under load was not a priority for me. Instead, I mounted a 6' section of track on the forward edge of the mast, starting about 6-8" above the deck. I drilled and tapped the mast for 1.25" track. The following link is for 4' and 8', but I know you can get it in 6' lengths, too. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=20923 You can get fancy with ball bearing cars and multiple purchase adjusting systems, but the following car will work very well, and can be adjusted, but not in heavy air. The inboard/lower end of the pole stays attached to this car all the time: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=71977 If you want to store the pole on deck, you'll need those fittings, either attached to the deck or to the stanchions. For mounting the pole on the front of the mast, if that's what you want to do, I used the following chock (which comes in different sizes to match the diameter of your pole), mounted on the mast near the top end of the pole when it is upright and stored: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=47031 My pole lift stays attached to the outboard/upper end of the pole, which necessitates dip-pole gybing. I took the bridle off the pole when I bought it, as it just got in the way. To store the pole I drop the car to the bottom of the track, align the pole with the pole chock, lift the pole into the chock, and click in the pin on the car. To launch the pole, pull and twist the pin on the car, lower the pole out of the chock, lower the outboard end to desired height with the pole lift, raise the car to desired height along the track, and click in the pin on the car. You will also need a downhaul (foreguy), which could be as simple as a line going from the outboard end of the pole down to a block attached to a bow cleat, then back to the cockpit. Very simple and easy. Just my two cents.
David, I took a simpler approach. I don't race, so having the ability to adjust the spinnaker car under load was not a priority for me. Instead, I mounted a 6' section of track on the forward edge of the mast, starting about 6-8" above the deck. I drilled and tapped the mast for 1.25" track. The following link is for 4' and 8', but I know you can get it in 6' lengths, too. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=20923 You can get fancy with ball bearing cars and multiple purchase adjusting systems, but the following car will work very well, and can be adjusted, but not in heavy air. The inboard/lower end of the pole stays attached to this car all the time: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=71977 If you want to store the pole on deck, you'll need those fittings, either attached to the deck or to the stanchions. For mounting the pole on the front of the mast, if that's what you want to do, I used the following chock (which comes in different sizes to match the diameter of your pole), mounted on the mast near the top end of the pole when it is upright and stored: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=47031 My pole lift stays attached to the outboard/upper end of the pole, which necessitates dip-pole gybing. I took the bridle off the pole when I bought it, as it just got in the way. To store the pole I drop the car to the bottom of the track, align the pole with the pole chock, lift the pole into the chock, and click in the pin on the car. To launch the pole, pull and twist the pin on the car, lower the pole out of the chock, lower the outboard end to desired height with the pole lift, raise the car to desired height along the track, and click in the pin on the car. You will also need a downhaul (foreguy), which could be as simple as a line going from the outboard end of the pole down to a block attached to a bow cleat, then back to the cockpit. Very simple and easy. Just my two cents.
Tom... Drilling and Tapping
Hi Tom, I'd like to install 1.25" track on the forward face of my mast for a whisker pole. I'm a little nervous about the drilling and tapping part. Can you explain how to do it? Once I have some instructions, I'll get some scrap aluminum and practice. Thanks, Jack "Friendship" C350, #80
Hi Tom, I'd like to install 1.25" track on the forward face of my mast for a whisker pole. I'm a little nervous about the drilling and tapping part. Can you explain how to do it? Once I have some instructions, I'll get some scrap aluminum and practice. Thanks, Jack "Friendship" C350, #80
Drilling and Tapping
Jack - in general, drilling and tapping is no big deal. Your home improvement/hardware store should sell matched drill bit and thread tap sets - so that you drill exactly the right diameter hole for the tap device - which puts the threads in. The only other tool you will need is a handle for the tap - they look a little like a drill chuck, but have a "T-handle" on them - the tap mounts in this chuck and you then turn it by hand. You could also use a small wrench to turn the tap, but the holder is cheap and lets you really keep the tap straight when getting it started in the hole. Get the screws you are going to use - probably came with the hardware, and go to the hardware store - then using the screws you have, determine which size drill/tap set to get. They often have a little sizing block at the store to help you determine exactly what size and what thread type your hardware is. Get a drill and tap set for that size hardware. Layout the holes on the mast using the new track as a guide - marking them carefully - even using a center punch to mark a place to start the drill bit. Carefully drill your hole - let the drill bit do the work, don't force anything. Get a little 3in1 oil or cutting fluid and put it on the tap. Insert the tap in your hole carefully and begin turning it clockwise. Turn clockwise a little bit, then back it off a little bit. Keep repeating this - in a little and then back out a little until the tap turns easily and voila! you should have a hole that is ready for a screw to be inserted. Finish with any other holes you need for whatever you are attaching, clean up any loose shavings or burrs on the outside of the holes. Get some anti-seize compound - which effectively keeps the steel screws from interacting with the aluminum mast - and slather it all over the inside of the holes and each screws threads. Mount your hardware - taking care not to overtighten and strip your threads and you should be good to go. Good Luck! Tim Brogan April IV C350 #68 Seattle
Jack - in general, drilling and tapping is no big deal. Your home improvement/hardware store should sell matched drill bit and thread tap sets - so that you drill exactly the right diameter hole for the tap device - which puts the threads in. The only other tool you will need is a handle for the tap - they look a little like a drill chuck, but have a "T-handle" on them - the tap mounts in this chuck and you then turn it by hand. You could also use a small wrench to turn the tap, but the holder is cheap and lets you really keep the tap straight when getting it started in the hole. Get the screws you are going to use - probably came with the hardware, and go to the hardware store - then using the screws you have, determine which size drill/tap set to get. They often have a little sizing block at the store to help you determine exactly what size and what thread type your hardware is. Get a drill and tap set for that size hardware. Layout the holes on the mast using the new track as a guide - marking them carefully - even using a center punch to mark a place to start the drill bit. Carefully drill your hole - let the drill bit do the work, don't force anything. Get a little 3in1 oil or cutting fluid and put it on the tap. Insert the tap in your hole carefully and begin turning it clockwise. Turn clockwise a little bit, then back it off a little bit. Keep repeating this - in a little and then back out a little until the tap turns easily and voila! you should have a hole that is ready for a screw to be inserted. Finish with any other holes you need for whatever you are attaching, clean up any loose shavings or burrs on the outside of the holes. Get some anti-seize compound - which effectively keeps the steel screws from interacting with the aluminum mast - and slather it all over the inside of the holes and each screws threads. Mount your hardware - taking care not to overtighten and strip your threads and you should be good to go. Good Luck! Tim Brogan April IV C350 #68 Seattle
Exactly!
Jack, Ditto what Tim said. Let me add a few things. I believe that most 1.25" track has holes for 5/16" screws/bolts, but check the track you get to make sure. You will want 5/16-18 flat head philips SS machine screws, most likely 1/2" or 5/8" long. You don't want the screws protuding too far into the mast, and the wall thickness is only about 1/8". Place the track exactly where you want it to be, and duct tape it in place temporarily. Mark all of the holes the same way, then take the track off. A center punch is a VERY good idea. As you drill the holes, you might want a helper to hold a vacuum cleaner next to the drill bit to catch any shavings. It's aluminum, but it still makes a mess of the deck. Drill as straight as possible for each hole. Also tap as straight as possible. If you practice on a scrap piece of aluminum, you might want to try putting the tap into a battery powered drill, because the aluminum mast is so thin. Adjust the chuck to a low torque setting. Tap straight in until the chuck clicks, then back it out. Repeat. Repeat until the tap goes in and out smoothly. After a while you'll get the hang of it, and it is faster and straighter than doing it with a hand tap. As Tim said, a drop or two of oil on the tap helps a lot. Good Luck on the project!
Jack, Ditto what Tim said. Let me add a few things. I believe that most 1.25" track has holes for 5/16" screws/bolts, but check the track you get to make sure. You will want 5/16-18 flat head philips SS machine screws, most likely 1/2" or 5/8" long. You don't want the screws protuding too far into the mast, and the wall thickness is only about 1/8". Place the track exactly where you want it to be, and duct tape it in place temporarily. Mark all of the holes the same way, then take the track off. A center punch is a VERY good idea. As you drill the holes, you might want a helper to hold a vacuum cleaner next to the drill bit to catch any shavings. It's aluminum, but it still makes a mess of the deck. Drill as straight as possible for each hole. Also tap as straight as possible. If you practice on a scrap piece of aluminum, you might want to try putting the tap into a battery powered drill, because the aluminum mast is so thin. Adjust the chuck to a low torque setting. Tap straight in until the chuck clicks, then back it out. Repeat. Repeat until the tap goes in and out smoothly. After a while you'll get the hang of it, and it is faster and straighter than doing it with a hand tap. As Tim said, a drop or two of oil on the tap helps a lot. Good Luck on the project!
Thank you Tim and Tom
Tim, Tom, Thank you for the great tutorial on drilling and tapping. This site is great. Time after time I see so many helpful people on here. No agenda other than helping others enjoy sailing. Thank you Trevor, Phil, and anyone else that makes this place possible. Jack "Friendship" C350, #80
Tim, Tom, Thank you for the great tutorial on drilling and tapping. This site is great. Time after time I see so many helpful people on here. No agenda other than helping others enjoy sailing. Thank you Trevor, Phil, and anyone else that makes this place possible. Jack "Friendship" C350, #80
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