Sources for Douka (Makore) Wood?

Simon Sexton · Nov 30, 2017

JRacer,

Good morning! Here are a few sources I was able to dig up for lumber in Kansas!
- http://www.friedenlumber.com/
- http://www.metrohardwoodsinc.com/exoticlumber.html
- http://www.intermountainwood.com/index.htm
I hope this helps!
God Bless,
S.S.

Simon Sexton · Nov 30, 2017

JRacer said:
Thanks, Simon. Looks like IM Wood has a location here in town. Will check them out.

You're welcome!

Ron20324 · Nov 30, 2017

In the Annapolis suburbs, Exoticlumber.com is the place to go. This is the kind of place where they actually slice the trees. Also in Frederick, MD. They have prices online so you can compare to other suppliers.

BigEasy · Nov 30, 2017

Racer,
If you don't mind me asking, what are you building or refurbishing?

Will Gilmore · Nov 30, 2017

For something like that, in small quantities, I first check the local millwork shops for drops. They'll have a scrap rack and often charge a nominal (cost, their b.f. price) It is often already planned on one or two sides. African mahogany is pretty hard to find, most of out will be sapele. For looks, it's hard to tell the difference unless they are side-by-side. Sapele is very reasonable in price. I compared it to oak from Lowes. Lowes way over charges for their hard wood. My kayak trailer rack is sapele instead of oak from Lowes.
- Will (Dragonfly)

Will Gilmore · Dec 1, 2017

Lisa did a great job on his top. I assume you are very experienced with woodworking but, I'm going to offer some thoughts on your project anyhow. Wide boards, especially in exotic woods cost a premium. Smaller planks that you glue up are not only cheaper but more stable as well. Plywood is the most stable but that doesn't sound like it would satisfy you for this project. It wouldn't double as a cutting board.
Definitely frame the board for both stability and keeping objects from sliding off. If you are looking for a really elegant piece and you have the equipment, buy a thicker piece, 6/4" in thickness and 12" to 13" wide, depending on how big you really need it to be (you'll lose at least 1/2" in planing and joining) and resaw to get your two halves. Then, you can open the two boards like a book and get mirrored image of the grain (it's called book matched grain, if you don't have interesting grain character, its not worth it). A large diameter table saw and good hand saw would do it. It's good to have a planer but a hand plane will work. Just a lot of work.
I'm looking forward to seeing how it all comes out. You can also inlay or burn a cool image into the top. I get paid a lot of money for that kind of stuff. Really adds value to the work and wood burning isn't that hard to learn.
- Will (Dragonfly)

Ron20324 · Dec 1, 2017

I use a (nylon?) cutting board that covers the top of my Force Ten 2-burner. I drilled 2 holes in the board (the one with the gutter around it). I drilled the back metal stove bracket that I put two bolts through to place the board holes onto. I tell crew it is a SHELF, not a cutting board.

BigEasy · Dec 2, 2017

I have two beneteau doors that are douka; however, they are highly finished. Definitely not suitable for a cutting board!

Will Gilmore · Dec 4, 2017

JRacer said:
Yes, I intend it to be a cover not a cutting board.

Pricing marine plywood in New England, mahogany plywood goes for around $225 for 1/2". You would need about an 1/8th of a sheet, 24" x 24" you probably can't buy it at that size for that price. However, if you are not going to be working on top of your cover, just putting plates and glasses on it, plywood is the best way to go. Unless, you want the grain pattern of flat sawn or quarter sawn wood. Plywood can also be purchased with a quarter sawn grain (then you are looking at more money. Also finding it would likely include shipping costs). I guest, with price and ease of acquisition as factors, solid wood is still the best bet.
- Will (Dragonfly)