I believe that the ABYC standard prohibits soldered connections and requires the use of stranded wire and crimp connectors. I'm sure Maine Sail or another expert will chime in with more specific info.Is soldering wiring connections recommended or not recommended? Does it require "marine" solder?
Thanks.
I am a huge proponent of soldered joints. I think the 'brittle' argument comes from the fact that a soldered joint on multiconductor wire will wick some solder up the conductor a mm or so, and then the wicking stops. Net result is a very short distance on the wire body to absorb any vibration. The connection fails due to localized stress.When did 50-50 lead/tin solder become brittle?
The method I've always use for wire to wire. Didn't know it had a name.WUPS western union pigtail splice
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice
It has been proven to work in all wire to wire splice situations. Mechanically sound to begin with and the solder only enhances the electrical conductivity. They are exceptionally difficult to do on lugs as you might imagine.
I am a huge proponent of soldered joints.
The key to a good connection was mentioned earlier, it must be done *correctly*. This is true for both methods,
Then throw in some common senses concerning protection from the elements and you're good for a while.
Telephone guys use a slimy silicone grease around the connections ( or at least they did years ago ) and it kept out moisture and contaminants quite well.
While "I believe" is hardly a statement of fact, "I think" the ABYC you mention MIGHT be out of context in that you will not use SOLELY a soldered connection. Crimp in addtion, but not just wrap with tape. I guessI believe that the ABYC standard prohibits soldered connections...Brad
a short can melt the solder, leaving a hot wire dangling where it can cause other problems. this is the main problem with a soldered connection that does not use some form of mechanical connection like the western union splice, before applying solder to it.a short can melt the solder, leaving a hot wire dangling where it can cause other problems.
The heat shrink over a crimped connection eliminates the hard spot a crimp may leave at its inner end.
The best connectors are heat shrink ones which provide an excellent seal, especially with ring connectors.
A western Union splice is designed for solid core wire. It doesn't work nor is it supposed to be used on stranded wire. Only stranded wire - ideally tinned - can be used on a boat.
A very large percentage of people who think they are good at soldering aren't.
A proper crimp - with the correct crimper - is easy to learn. If done properly and covered with adhesive heat shrink it will outlast most boat owners.
Dielectric compounds do not conduct electricity - just the opposite. They have no place inside a crimped connection. After a proper crimp they can be used but adhesive heat shrink is a better choice and will keep out moisture indefinitely.
If the proper crimper is used on the proper connector solder will not end up inside the crimp. Now with a ineffective cheap crimper or a pair of pliers there will be room for solder in the connection.I solder enough to know that a crimped and soldered connection is a very good connection. Put a little rosin core flux on the bare wire crimp then solder. The solder will flow to the heat and the flux will let the liquid solder flow around every strand. You can recognize a cold solder connection by the dull appearance as opposed to the shine appearance of properly solder joint. I do not solder every joint only ones I feel which benefit form the effort.
That is good to know.If the proper crimper is used on the proper connector solder will not end up inside the crimp. Now with a ineffective cheap crimper or a pair of pliers there will be room for solder in the connection.
We used to use some 'old timer' bell-techs, you've seen 'em, pipe smokers, the grandaddy glasses, (and some black-hearted old geezers too). In the business, it's way simpler to use these guys than train some adrenaline punk with a want for adventure. I got a helluva education from these fellers. The telco's fight moisture everyday, it is the number one enemy of comms. Fickle little pairs, that used to be insulated with paper and encased in lead. The overhead cables today rely on positive air pressure inside the cable to keep water out. You can imagine what a nightmare 'pulp' cables would present wet, and a milkjug splice was the bane of their existence. We called that dielectric grease "phone-goo", and was nasty as hell. Must be very special stuff, I've never run across it outside of the telco world, and was much more aggravating than an over the counter dielectric grease. But I gotta admit, I thought they all crimped, upwards of 25 pairs at a time. It's fair to say though that we weren't always paying close attention to the technique though, sometimes there was much more important stuff to watch. Which was our job, not critique or 'learn the procedure'. I did anyway.
I truly missed that call though, I was one of the ones that thought landline cables were doomed forever, and saw no future in that particular line of business, and it would all be wireless in short order.
But I still crimp, OR solder depending. I don't see how you could solder a properly crimped connection though, as the whole idea is a 'cold weld', which would not leave any room for displacement.
Ive got a small thinker for you. How hard do you think it is to buy a Chevy van and paint ma-bell on the side of it. Think about that one for a minute..