Saildog, thanks for the picture. Looks like your using the rail mount only during winter yard storage where the boat does not move. Your summer much larger panels also "look" straight up but your pretty far north so no issue. The Telstar sure looks like a sweet sailboat..
Now that I have a nifty and convinent way to measure panel current (linklite), Im going to test my panel for various shade conditions - got me curious. Regarding shading, the clip below is from this site: http://www.energymatters.com.au/faqs/general_solar_power_faq.php Seems what the panel does in partial shading could vary a lot depending on if the panel has the bypass diodes which basically "bypass" a shaded cell or how the cells are arranged (ie, all serial or combination of serial and parellel). Interesting that if a cell is bypassed with a diode, for a serial set of cells, the panel current should not change but the panel output voltage will drop. So if your using a MPPT controller, you will get less "converted" output current to the battery during shading. But for a conventional cheap PWM controller (like I have), the current to the battery should be less affected by partial shading since the panel voltage drops to the battery voltage when the charge is delivered to the battery. But only true if the panel voltage remains somewhat above the battery voltage. Too many cells bypassed and you get nothing.
The output of any panel will be reduced or cut off if shaded. However, some solar panels do work better than others in the shade. If a single cell is heavily shaded, that cell is cut off.
All solar panels sold by Energy Matters have "bypass diodes", which send output from the remaining cells around that dead cell. However, you have lost the output of that cell, so the total panel voltage will drop by about 0.48 volts per cell. Most panels are in the 16 to 18 volt range, and most batteries need at least 13.5 volts to charge completely. So, if 2 or more cells are shaded, the output voltage of the panel may drop too low to charge the battery.
Now that I have a nifty and convinent way to measure panel current (linklite), Im going to test my panel for various shade conditions - got me curious. Regarding shading, the clip below is from this site: http://www.energymatters.com.au/faqs/general_solar_power_faq.php Seems what the panel does in partial shading could vary a lot depending on if the panel has the bypass diodes which basically "bypass" a shaded cell or how the cells are arranged (ie, all serial or combination of serial and parellel). Interesting that if a cell is bypassed with a diode, for a serial set of cells, the panel current should not change but the panel output voltage will drop. So if your using a MPPT controller, you will get less "converted" output current to the battery during shading. But for a conventional cheap PWM controller (like I have), the current to the battery should be less affected by partial shading since the panel voltage drops to the battery voltage when the charge is delivered to the battery. But only true if the panel voltage remains somewhat above the battery voltage. Too many cells bypassed and you get nothing.
- -------------------------------- (clip from referenced site)
The output of any panel will be reduced or cut off if shaded. However, some solar panels do work better than others in the shade. If a single cell is heavily shaded, that cell is cut off.
All solar panels sold by Energy Matters have "bypass diodes", which send output from the remaining cells around that dead cell. However, you have lost the output of that cell, so the total panel voltage will drop by about 0.48 volts per cell. Most panels are in the 16 to 18 volt range, and most batteries need at least 13.5 volts to charge completely. So, if 2 or more cells are shaded, the output voltage of the panel may drop too low to charge the battery.