I sail my 192 in very shallow Barnegat Bay, NJ & am considering installing a small ($100) depth finder & power it with a small motorcycle battery. Has anyone done it? Where would I mount the transducer? Any info would be much appreciated. Jerry
Small cheap depth finder
- Thread starter Jerry Shenkman
- Start date
Nope. I'm pretty sure no one here has ever installed such a contraption. 
Seriously, that would work just fine I'm sure. Get a small tub of plumbers putty and mash it onto a clean place on the inside hull - say ...just in front of the keel perhaps. Shove the transducer in it and make sure its properly pointed and that the plumbers putty is mashed tight all around it. Run the wire to the head unit through companionway temporarily to where you can see it in the cockpit and hook up your motorsickel batt. Sail or power around a while and evaluate the effectiveness of the unit. If iffy - move the transducer to another location until it works well. When (if) it does - nail down your head unit and get fishin' permanent wires.
Seriously, that would work just fine I'm sure. Get a small tub of plumbers putty and mash it onto a clean place on the inside hull - say ...just in front of the keel perhaps. Shove the transducer in it and make sure its properly pointed and that the plumbers putty is mashed tight all around it. Run the wire to the head unit through companionway temporarily to where you can see it in the cockpit and hook up your motorsickel batt. Sail or power around a while and evaluate the effectiveness of the unit. If iffy - move the transducer to another location until it works well. When (if) it does - nail down your head unit and get fishin' permanent wires.
I installed a unit this year. I took the above advise about mounting the transducer with plumbers putty. I was hesitant because I never used the putty before. I have to say it works great.
My only comment is to try to find a transducer mounting location well forward of the stern to keep it below waterline in rough seas. A small solar panel (!5 to 20w) should work great to charge your m/c battery. Chief
Jerry, thinking about the construction of the 192, I think the only place we could put a transducer is down in the V-berth anchor well. The only other place with access to the hull is under the bridge deck, but that's the bilge over the keel. I have not looked in my V-berth well too frequently, so all I remember of it is that it's deep, and cut down into the floatation foam. I do not recall if it goes clear down to the hull, nor the angle of the hull in that area. For sure it would be in front of the keel. I have a spare Danforth style anchor in there, which I have used once, and 2 extra shots of anchor line, which I have never used. But, hey, I'm prepared!
I have a "360 amp" (whatever that really means...) U1 sized tractor battery. I use it for LED running lights and cabin light, and occasional phone or handheld VHF charging. I keep it charged with a Batterytender 5w solar panel with built in charge controller (even low amp solar panel could overcharge a sealed lead acid battery over long periods of time.) http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-1163-Solar-Maintainer/dp/B004Q83TGO/ It does not appear Batterytender makes the 5w panel anymore, at least they don't show it on their site, just the 10w panel: http://www.batterytender.com/Solar/
I know that the tractor battery is not a deep cycle battery, and that it won't last very long deep cycling it, but I think that with my current weekend usage scenario, I barely discharge it with the LED lighting and phone charging. If I did wear it out, it should last me 3-5 years, and at $70 from Tractor Supply, it's paid for itself. I originally got the U1 battery to make it easy to carry home for charging every so often. But I just couldn't resist having a solar panel to charge it so I don't have to take the battery home! That, and SLA batteries like to stay charged. Sitting partially discharged is not good for them. Even though I don't discharge it much at all. But, hey, it's about the toys!
I have a "360 amp" (whatever that really means...) U1 sized tractor battery. I use it for LED running lights and cabin light, and occasional phone or handheld VHF charging. I keep it charged with a Batterytender 5w solar panel with built in charge controller (even low amp solar panel could overcharge a sealed lead acid battery over long periods of time.) http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-1163-Solar-Maintainer/dp/B004Q83TGO/ It does not appear Batterytender makes the 5w panel anymore, at least they don't show it on their site, just the 10w panel: http://www.batterytender.com/Solar/
I know that the tractor battery is not a deep cycle battery, and that it won't last very long deep cycling it, but I think that with my current weekend usage scenario, I barely discharge it with the LED lighting and phone charging. If I did wear it out, it should last me 3-5 years, and at $70 from Tractor Supply, it's paid for itself. I originally got the U1 battery to make it easy to carry home for charging every so often. But I just couldn't resist having a solar panel to charge it so I don't have to take the battery home! That, and SLA batteries like to stay charged. Sitting partially discharged is not good for them. Even though I don't discharge it much at all. But, hey, it's about the toys!
Brian S: 360a cranking starter amps. OK, a 5 or 10w would be fine since it is such a small battery. Chief
Try This .........................
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=972051&highlight=baggie
....................... just to locate the best mounting location. Permanently mount once you find it. Use any of the material listed in the archives (plumber's putty, silicone, etc.) but DO NOT get into mineral oil, antifreeze or the other mounting insanity that lurks out there. Simplest is the best.
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=972051&highlight=baggie
Jerry,
Both Humminbird and Hawkeye make nice depth sounders for under $100. Both have digital readouts in a 2" dial face and puck transducer for mounting in the hull. On my 25 mine is mounted just behind the shoal draft keel with the readout mounted in the cockpit bulkhead. I can read depths down to 2' with the Humminbird (HDR650)
Both draw so little amperage that you will be find with that battery and taking it home to charge every couple of weeks.
Just test for the best location like others have said.
Both Humminbird and Hawkeye make nice depth sounders for under $100. Both have digital readouts in a 2" dial face and puck transducer for mounting in the hull. On my 25 mine is mounted just behind the shoal draft keel with the readout mounted in the cockpit bulkhead. I can read depths down to 2' with the Humminbird (HDR650)
Both draw so little amperage that you will be find with that battery and taking it home to charge every couple of weeks.
Just test for the best location like others have said.
Hi, I have recently purchased a Hawkeye transducer, the type that Ward mentions. I tested out various bilge locations on my O'Day 22 last season and wasn't able to get a reading. I was going to give up and transom mount it - I'm still not in the water this season. Hawkeye suggests sanding the mounting spot on the inside of the hull. Does anyone have a suggested place and method for a puck mount transducer on the O'Day 22? Thanks!
Brian, for a regular price of about $85 (but with a "sale" price and a 20% off coupon) I paid about $55, Harbor Frieght sells a great little Deep-Cycle AGM battery, same size as those "Tractor" batteries (U-1, but deep-cycle so designated DC-1). I bought one last year for my DS II, had previously used a lead-acid DC-1, but the store that I bought that from no longer sold them. The Harbor-Frieght battery powered my VHF all season last year and with a short (about 1-2 hours) session on a charger this Spring, is good as new, your solat panel should keep it up even better. AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) can't leak, can be mounted in almost any position (good for a sailboat I say!I have a "360 amp" (whatever that really means...) U1 sized tractor battery. I use it for LED running lights and cabin light, and occasional phone or handheld VHF charging. I keep it charged with a Batterytender 5w solar panel with built in charge controller (even low amp solar panel could overcharge a sealed lead acid battery over long periods of time.) http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-1163-Solar-Maintainer/dp/B004Q83TGO/ It does not appear Batterytender makes the 5w panel anymore, at least they don't show it on their site, just the 10w panel: http://www.batterytender.com/Solar/
I know that the tractor battery is not a deep cycle battery, and that it won't last very long deep cycling it, but I think that with my current weekend usage scenario, I barely discharge it with the LED lighting and phone charging. If I did wear it out, it should last me 3-5 years, and at $70 from Tractor Supply, it's paid for itself. I originally got the U1 battery to make it easy to carry home for charging every so often. But I just couldn't resist having a solar panel to charge it so I don't have to take the battery home! That, and SLA batteries like to stay charged. Sitting partially discharged is not good for them. Even though I don't discharge it much at all. But, hey, it's about the toys!
Harbor Frieght sells thos batteries for powering electric fences with a solar panel keeping them charged, but on their web-site several customers wrote about using the battery for a small trolling motor with good results. I am lucky enough to have a nearby HF store, so I'm not sure about shipping the battery, it does have some weight (I"d say about same as your U-1 garden tractor battery).
I couldn't get a reading when it tested with a bag full of water, then when I used plumbers putty I got a reading. Then I sanded the paint off the inside of the hull and cleaned the spot thoroughly, after which my reading worked perfectly. I have a hummingbird 100 or 150...a cheap thing my wife found on clearance.
Last edited:
Sunbird, that's great news. The only thing I'm worried about is whether the charge controller on the BatteryTender panel I have will work well with AGM. But I am remembering that AGM is closer to SLA than Gel batteries. If you don't charge Gel batteries correctly, you will create voids in the gel, and permanently ruin them.
So, yeah, I'm probably ok with AGM. And I have a Harbor Freight nearby. Unfortunately, the U-1 starter battery hasn't given up the ghost yet, for me to justify getting the AGM Also, since the new house is only 25 minutes from the boat, instead of an hour, I haven't been spending the weekend on the boat. Well, and the new house is a much more pleasant place to be than the crappy old house, so I haven't been looking to escape, either!
So, yeah, I'm probably ok with AGM. And I have a Harbor Freight nearby. Unfortunately, the U-1 starter battery hasn't given up the ghost yet, for me to justify getting the AGM
Also, since the new house is only 25 minutes from the boat, instead of an hour, I haven't been spending the weekend on the boat. Well, and the new house is a much more pleasant place to be than the crappy old house, so I haven't been looking to escape, either!
Thanks Indy,
Yes, I have the 100, and was using the "bag of water" method. Do you place the depth finder puck on the inside of the hull and surround it with the plumbers putty, or do you actually place the putty on surface and get the reading through the putty? I really don't want to transom mount this because of holes, and also it's after the fact if you should run into a shallow area.
The transducer is completely encased tightly within the putty. Squeeze out all air pockets. Nothing sticking out of the putty ball except the cable. Make sure the transducer is properly orientated when applying putty ball to hull. Make sure no air pockets under putty next to the hull.
I put a mound of putty directly on the hull and mashed the transducer into it, trying to keep it as horizontal as possible. Then I built putty up around the edges of the transducer to help keep it in place. I was actually surprised it worked as well as it did after being frustrated with the bag and a previous attempt with a wax toilet ring.
The water bag is NEVER used for a permanent install. It is used to find the best spot to imbed the transducer. The key is like Indysailor says; and that is, a MOUND of your stick on substance that you press your transducer down into. Push down until about 1/4" or little less is all thats left below rhe transducer. This works with the wax, putty or silicone. Just be aware that the silicone bonds firmer than the wax and putty but not as solid as resin. I have used silicone for 30+ years. Chief
Chief, I see how you could have misconstrued that, but I didn't intend to use the bag for permanent install. I couldn't get a reading with the bag and so was never really sure whether I would be able to find the right spot in the hull. The bag method is the method described in the Hummingbird instructions to find the optimal place for placement. So, I gave up and just decided to pick a spot aft of the keel, figuring it wouldn't be a big deal with plumbers putty to clean it up and try another if the first place didn't work.
I understand Indysailor, I was just clarifying the steps in hopes of helping the ones who need it. Chief