Judging from my family's interest in sailing, I'll be doing a lot of singlehanded ventures. I'm at a total loss as to how I'm going to reef the main while sailing in heavy weather. I've got the sewn-in D ring at the luff and a line at the leech cringle that follows the boom. A lever devise is used to lock it down. My halyards run aft into a clutch. I do not have an autopilot or tiller tamer. I would think I need to rig the boat so all lines are either at the boom or run aft to the cockpit, but I'm open for suggestions.
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The best suggestion is to...
...be reefed before going out if you think it may be needed. Much easier to shake out a reef then put one in. If it gets rough, I heave to and reef. Still can be hairy in 20+knots alone but...My 26 has the same set-up. I know of others who have set up "single line reefing" led to the cockpit so you don't need to go foward. alan
...be reefed before going out if you think it may be needed. Much easier to shake out a reef then put one in. If it gets rough, I heave to and reef. Still can be hairy in 20+knots alone but...My 26 has the same set-up. I know of others who have set up "single line reefing" led to the cockpit so you don't need to go foward. alan
Learn to Heave to
When you want to reef, get a rest, or have lunch: Come about, backwinding the jib by not releasing the jib sheet. Ease the traveler/mainsheet so the boom end is over the leeward side of the cockpit. Lash the tiller to leeward (or the wheel to windward - anyway, set the rudder so that it turns the boat into the wind when the main fills. The boat will quiet right down. Oscilating between the backwinded jib, and the main/rudder, it will be drifting 1-2 knots downwind. Now go about the business of reefing the main. I wear a harness tethered to jacklines or strong points whenever I am single handing, but this is certainly the drill going forward. With the boat relaxed/hove to, you can take your time, and get the reef in right.. When you are ready, unlash the tiller/wheel, and let go of the windward jib sheet, then hauling in on the leeward sheet to take off on the now completed tack. That's it. By the way, we heave to to reef even when the admiral or crew are aboard. It's just a lot quieter (and better on the sails) than trying to hold the boat into the wind to reef. Good sailing, David Lady Lillie
When you want to reef, get a rest, or have lunch: Come about, backwinding the jib by not releasing the jib sheet. Ease the traveler/mainsheet so the boom end is over the leeward side of the cockpit. Lash the tiller to leeward (or the wheel to windward - anyway, set the rudder so that it turns the boat into the wind when the main fills. The boat will quiet right down. Oscilating between the backwinded jib, and the main/rudder, it will be drifting 1-2 knots downwind. Now go about the business of reefing the main. I wear a harness tethered to jacklines or strong points whenever I am single handing, but this is certainly the drill going forward. With the boat relaxed/hove to, you can take your time, and get the reef in right.. When you are ready, unlash the tiller/wheel, and let go of the windward jib sheet, then hauling in on the leeward sheet to take off on the now completed tack. That's it. By the way, we heave to to reef even when the admiral or crew are aboard. It's just a lot quieter (and better on the sails) than trying to hold the boat into the wind to reef. Good sailing, David Lady Lillie
Another trick for "heaving to"
My 23.5 heaves to better with the centerboard up as do many other swing keel and center board boats. Some deep fin keel racers don't heave to well at all but most boats that can raise the keel or centerboard will do it well.
My 23.5 heaves to better with the centerboard up as do many other swing keel and center board boats. Some deep fin keel racers don't heave to well at all but most boats that can raise the keel or centerboard will do it well.
Good point Frank!
In addition, the same boat will heave to with different settings on the sheets and rudder in varing conditions. alan
In addition, the same boat will heave to with different settings on the sheets and rudder in varing conditions. alan
Dave..since you're in Atlanta
I'm going to guess that most of your sailing will be in lakes or other protected waters. Before I learned my boat well enough to heave to I would just sail into a cove or protected bay and throw out the anchor to hold me while I reefed. If there is any doubt I reef at the dock. Unlike many I raise the sails at the dock if there is a was I can get on the leeward side of the dock with my boat. If you have a tiller then I'd spend the 300 to 500 hundred for an autopilot and a harness. It will let you do all sorts of things while the boat keeps moving. This is especially helpful if the winds dies, because you can put up the sails and get ready to leave on your way to the dock.
I'm going to guess that most of your sailing will be in lakes or other protected waters. Before I learned my boat well enough to heave to I would just sail into a cove or protected bay and throw out the anchor to hold me while I reefed. If there is any doubt I reef at the dock. Unlike many I raise the sails at the dock if there is a was I can get on the leeward side of the dock with my boat. If you have a tiller then I'd spend the 300 to 500 hundred for an autopilot and a harness. It will let you do all sorts of things while the boat keeps moving. This is especially helpful if the winds dies, because you can put up the sails and get ready to leave on your way to the dock.
Frank - your 23.5
The first season that I had my 23.5 I heaved to 3 times that I recall to put in a reef. I just did as I learned in class and didn't give it a second thought: it worked great. This last season, my 2nd, I couldn't heave to for nothing. I'd end up sailing 3 knots with the jib back-winded and couldn't get it to stop. I tried on different occaisions, but no go (or should I say, no stop). I tried differnet angles to the wind, moved the boom farther out and farther in. Maybe I was just lucky the first year. For the second year I had roller furling installed, but the jib was always full out when I tried to heave-to. I can't imagine that made a difference in heaving-to? Anyway, I wanted to ask you what happens with your H23.5 when you heave-to with the centerboard down, compared to having it up?
The first season that I had my 23.5 I heaved to 3 times that I recall to put in a reef. I just did as I learned in class and didn't give it a second thought: it worked great. This last season, my 2nd, I couldn't heave to for nothing. I'd end up sailing 3 knots with the jib back-winded and couldn't get it to stop. I tried on different occaisions, but no go (or should I say, no stop). I tried differnet angles to the wind, moved the boom farther out and farther in. Maybe I was just lucky the first year. For the second year I had roller furling installed, but the jib was always full out when I tried to heave-to. I can't imagine that made a difference in heaving-to? Anyway, I wanted to ask you what happens with your H23.5 when you heave-to with the centerboard down, compared to having it up?
Heave-TO
Rick, every boat is different, but on my 25.5 I have found it more difficult to heave-to with a larger headsail--on my boat it will overpower the smaller main. Try partially furling the headsail before heaving-to. Dave Weir "Last Resort"
Rick, every boat is different, but on my 25.5 I have found it more difficult to heave-to with a larger headsail--on my boat it will overpower the smaller main. Try partially furling the headsail before heaving-to. Dave Weir "Last Resort"
Thanks! But still confused...
Thanks for responses. I have not tried to heave-to yet, but I'll give it a try. I still don't understand how to reef solo since my reefing line are at the mast and halyards at the cockpit. Of course I would start by lowering the main several feet, then walk up to the mast. Since I have a D ring on the sail and an open hook at the gooseneck, there's no way to attach unless one person holds the D ring on the hook and someone else raises the sail tight. I would think the open hook would need to be replaced with a snap hook and shackle. I also don't have a cleat on the mast to cleat off the luff reefing line. Any additional thoughts?
Thanks for responses. I have not tried to heave-to yet, but I'll give it a try. I still don't understand how to reef solo since my reefing line are at the mast and halyards at the cockpit. Of course I would start by lowering the main several feet, then walk up to the mast. Since I have a D ring on the sail and an open hook at the gooseneck, there's no way to attach unless one person holds the D ring on the hook and someone else raises the sail tight. I would think the open hook would need to be replaced with a snap hook and shackle. I also don't have a cleat on the mast to cleat off the luff reefing line. Any additional thoughts?
One tip
I have a cringle (grommet) in the sail and a rams-head hook at the gooseneck. If the main is lowered to the right position, I can slip the gringle on the hook without it being too tight that it won't reach or too loose that it falls off before I can get back to the cockpit to harden the main halyard. The tip here is to mark this position with permanent marker on the halyard such that the mark is just before or near the clutch; somewhere that you can see and remember. When reefing, let the main down to this point, engage the clutch, and then go forward to attach the reef point to the hook. Will this work with your D-ring?
I have a cringle (grommet) in the sail and a rams-head hook at the gooseneck. If the main is lowered to the right position, I can slip the gringle on the hook without it being too tight that it won't reach or too loose that it falls off before I can get back to the cockpit to harden the main halyard. The tip here is to mark this position with permanent marker on the halyard such that the mark is just before or near the clutch; somewhere that you can see and remember. When reefing, let the main down to this point, engage the clutch, and then go forward to attach the reef point to the hook. Will this work with your D-ring?
Ok...
Heave to (like stated practice first), let out main halyard so you can get the reefing tack (cringle) on the gooseneck fitting (may want to mark the line), place cringle (reefing tack) on reefing hook (I hold it on with the reefing line led to foward part of the boom), then pull reefing line to tighten and tighten the main halyard. I do it this way all the time by myself. Obviously you need to secure the reefing line. On my boat there are cam cleats built into the foward part of the boom. Depending on your set up, you can use a winch to bring the main halyard foward and control the lines from there and with a rope clutch tighten up on the reefing tack (cringle). alan P.S. obviously Rick "snuck" his response in as I was writing.
Heave to (like stated practice first), let out main halyard so you can get the reefing tack (cringle) on the gooseneck fitting (may want to mark the line), place cringle (reefing tack) on reefing hook (I hold it on with the reefing line led to foward part of the boom), then pull reefing line to tighten and tighten the main halyard. I do it this way all the time by myself. Obviously you need to secure the reefing line. On my boat there are cam cleats built into the foward part of the boom. Depending on your set up, you can use a winch to bring the main halyard foward and control the lines from there and with a rope clutch tighten up on the reefing tack (cringle). alan P.S. obviously Rick "snuck" his response in as I was writing.
Ok the easy way to rig for single hand
So what you do is (assuming you have in boom reefing line). You purchase two small blocks but large enough to handle the reefing line. You attach (with a "d" shackle) one at your "D" ring on the luff and the other to the reef cringle on the leech. You then may have to get a longer reef line for what you do is you fix one end to the rams horn or what ever at the front of the boom. You then run it up the first block on the luff and along to the block on the reef point at the leech. However before you pass the line through the leech block make sure that you tie a figure 8 in the line. This must be in just the right spot to enable the "outhaul" of the sail. When the knot gets to the block it pulls the sail aft.The reef line then goes down to the boom and along, inside the boom to the mast. Down to another block (sorry buy three blocks) at the base of the mast and then back to the cockpit to somewhere that it can be fastened. The bag of sail hangin on the boom can be tucked away and secured with bungy cordy if there is a break in the blow! And there you have it. You can reef on your own without leaving the cockpit
So what you do is (assuming you have in boom reefing line). You purchase two small blocks but large enough to handle the reefing line. You attach (with a "d" shackle) one at your "D" ring on the luff and the other to the reef cringle on the leech. You then may have to get a longer reef line for what you do is you fix one end to the rams horn or what ever at the front of the boom. You then run it up the first block on the luff and along to the block on the reef point at the leech. However before you pass the line through the leech block make sure that you tie a figure 8 in the line. This must be in just the right spot to enable the "outhaul" of the sail. When the knot gets to the block it pulls the sail aft.The reef line then goes down to the boom and along, inside the boom to the mast. Down to another block (sorry buy three blocks) at the base of the mast and then back to the cockpit to somewhere that it can be fastened. The bag of sail hangin on the boom can be tucked away and secured with bungy cordy if there is a break in the blow! And there you have it. You can reef on your own without leaving the cockpit
Rick - heaving to
Rick when I heave too with the board down the boat either tries to tack if I have the helm over too far or it sails into the wind slowly if I have the tiller too much to the center. So for me to be able to heave too in every weather I raise the centerboard, backwind the jib, loose the main to put the boom out at a 45 degree angle and ptu the tiller hard a lee. That works for the 23.5 every time so long as my jib is not over 110%.
Rick when I heave too with the board down the boat either tries to tack if I have the helm over too far or it sails into the wind slowly if I have the tiller too much to the center. So for me to be able to heave too in every weather I raise the centerboard, backwind the jib, loose the main to put the boom out at a 45 degree angle and ptu the tiller hard a lee. That works for the 23.5 every time so long as my jib is not over 110%.
Reefing
Sorta got the idea but this is a problem for all of us. Is it possible to do a diagram for the rest of us a little slower on the uptake?
Sorta got the idea but this is a problem for all of us. Is it possible to do a diagram for the rest of us a little slower on the uptake?
I certainly feel outdated
I have hank-on headsails and the lines at the mast. Yeah, you can call me "old-timer"... With the centerboard up, lateral resistance to boat movement is reduced. With the sailplan and helm balanced, the boat is essentially slipping sideways through the water. The wake it leaves behind as it does so reduces wave action on the windward side, kind of like the proverbial "oil on troubled waters". Boats with deep fin keels have too much "bite" and won't slip as well, so they end up sailing instead. Peter H23 "Raven"
I have hank-on headsails and the lines at the mast. Yeah, you can call me "old-timer"... With the centerboard up, lateral resistance to boat movement is reduced. With the sailplan and helm balanced, the boat is essentially slipping sideways through the water. The wake it leaves behind as it does so reduces wave action on the windward side, kind of like the proverbial "oil on troubled waters". Boats with deep fin keels have too much "bite" and won't slip as well, so they end up sailing instead. Peter H23 "Raven"
Counter point
Personally, I prefer not having to rely on the ability to heave to. I found it to be tricky in my h26. Get a tiller tamer or autopilot. The autopilot is the best and most used addition I made to my boat. Well worth the money. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
Personally, I prefer not having to rely on the ability to heave to. I found it to be tricky in my h26. Get a tiller tamer or autopilot. The autopilot is the best and most used addition I made to my boat. Well worth the money. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
Autopilot Question for Ron
Ron: I agree that an autopilot seems like a great idea, but recently my friend's tiller pilot would not work when he was in the rough stuff and needed it most. Here in NC we don't really sail off shore but it can get really rough and windy very close to the shore. He was on a 19 foot boat and the waves got to 5 feet very quickly and the pilot made funny noises and died. His experience has put a damper on my plans to have an autopilot as a nice backup for safety reasons in heavy weather. So now I'm back to the plan of heaving to or foreaching or running downwind under a small jib only. Please tell me how well your pilot works in the rough stuff. Frank
Ron: I agree that an autopilot seems like a great idea, but recently my friend's tiller pilot would not work when he was in the rough stuff and needed it most. Here in NC we don't really sail off shore but it can get really rough and windy very close to the shore. He was on a 19 foot boat and the waves got to 5 feet very quickly and the pilot made funny noises and died. His experience has put a damper on my plans to have an autopilot as a nice backup for safety reasons in heavy weather. So now I'm back to the plan of heaving to or foreaching or running downwind under a small jib only. Please tell me how well your pilot works in the rough stuff. Frank
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