I am thinking about customizing the deck lines to run to the cockpit. My 87 h23 is bone stock and sails just fine...but I feel the need to have the option to single hand when needed not to mention I have an urge to tinker with some fine tuning during the off season. I have gone through the input located in the archives but neglected to find any photos of how this was accomplished (ex: positioning of deck hardware. The process sounds relatively straight forward but to have a visual reference to go by would make things a lot more clear. I might have to refer to another similar sized boat at one of the local marinas that have already installed this configuration, but I figured I would try the wealth of knowledge within this forum first. If anyone can supply a photo or point me towards another reference I would greatly appreciate it. Otherwise thanks for listening. eager to tinker... brian h23
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all I did
All I did to my H235 is three things, since the haulyards are already run back to the cockpit. 1.Add winchers to the winches to make holding and adjusting lines easier. 2. I had the jib cut down to just less than 100% and added a boom and blocks to make it self tacking. This made a huge difference in ease of sailing and improved my downwinde performance because I rarely used a whisker pole when single handing. Now I have a boom so a whisker pole isn't needed. Even thought the jib is slightly smaller I haven't noticed any loss of speed, but I'm not a racer. I also think it sails slightly close to the wind with the self tacking sail because it can be sheeted to a very close angle. 3 I added a better tiller extension. I like to be able to reach the tiller from just about anywhere so my extension is long and removeable.
All I did to my H235 is three things, since the haulyards are already run back to the cockpit. 1.Add winchers to the winches to make holding and adjusting lines easier. 2. I had the jib cut down to just less than 100% and added a boom and blocks to make it self tacking. This made a huge difference in ease of sailing and improved my downwinde performance because I rarely used a whisker pole when single handing. Now I have a boom so a whisker pole isn't needed. Even thought the jib is slightly smaller I haven't noticed any loss of speed, but I'm not a racer. I also think it sails slightly close to the wind with the self tacking sail because it can be sheeted to a very close angle. 3 I added a better tiller extension. I like to be able to reach the tiller from just about anywhere so my extension is long and removeable.
You rang??
I'm almost done setting up my H23 for better sail tuning. The stock traveler has already been modified (see Photo Forum and earlier post here re traveler). The single jib blocks on the deck have been replaced with adjustable sheaves on tracks (partially visible in photo) and the backstay is fully adjustable. The last item is running the cunningham and boom vang back to the cockpit. A Schaefer two-sheave deck organizer was installed ahead of the hatch. Two Harken cam cleats with fairleads were just installed on the starboard side of the cabin top. A boom bail was attached on the mast near the foot with sheetmetal screws. Two Harken ball-bearing single blocks will be shackled to the bail to turn the lines to the deck organizer. The photo shows the positions of the organizer base and cleat bases. It took me a while to get the positions right. It's not perfect but it'll work. When all the hardware is mounted and the lines are rigged I'll take another photo. I hope this helps. Peter H23 "Raven"
I'm almost done setting up my H23 for better sail tuning. The stock traveler has already been modified (see Photo Forum and earlier post here re traveler). The single jib blocks on the deck have been replaced with adjustable sheaves on tracks (partially visible in photo) and the backstay is fully adjustable. The last item is running the cunningham and boom vang back to the cockpit. A Schaefer two-sheave deck organizer was installed ahead of the hatch. Two Harken cam cleats with fairleads were just installed on the starboard side of the cabin top. A boom bail was attached on the mast near the foot with sheetmetal screws. Two Harken ball-bearing single blocks will be shackled to the bail to turn the lines to the deck organizer. The photo shows the positions of the organizer base and cleat bases. It took me a while to get the positions right. It's not perfect but it'll work. When all the hardware is mounted and the lines are rigged I'll take another photo. I hope this helps. Peter H23 "Raven"
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halyards aft
If you've got an '87 I presume you have the Z Spar mast. It already has one sheave in the base to turn one of the halyards (I forget which) up to the horn cleat. I simply added another sheave at the base. Ran both halyards out the bottom. Turned them aft with a 2 sheave deck organizer. I also added a couple fairleads to get them around the wooden hand rail. Then added a double rope clutch to the cabin roof on the starboard side near the cockpit. With strategic placement of your clutch and organizer you might eliminate the fairleads. Also took the winch off the mast and put it just aft of the rope clutch. I'll try to get you a picture in the next couple days or you can email me for that. I havn't messed with moving my in-boom lines aft. Eliminated my topping lift though with a boomkicker. All well worthwhile projects.
If you've got an '87 I presume you have the Z Spar mast. It already has one sheave in the base to turn one of the halyards (I forget which) up to the horn cleat. I simply added another sheave at the base. Ran both halyards out the bottom. Turned them aft with a 2 sheave deck organizer. I also added a couple fairleads to get them around the wooden hand rail. Then added a double rope clutch to the cabin roof on the starboard side near the cockpit. With strategic placement of your clutch and organizer you might eliminate the fairleads. Also took the winch off the mast and put it just aft of the rope clutch. I'll try to get you a picture in the next couple days or you can email me for that. I havn't messed with moving my in-boom lines aft. Eliminated my topping lift though with a boomkicker. All well worthwhile projects.
thanks for the pics
Peter, thanks for the pic posts, I've seen a bunch of your work in the archives and have gained alot of working knowledge from your experience rigging the 23. The stock traveller definitely needs to be upgraded as you have already found that it is limited in its fine adjustments under sail. I actually think the traveller upgrade should take precedence over running halyards aft etc. but after all this stock 23 is a work in progress. Anyway, I'm a little unsure as to how you cleared the deck rail running adjacent to the hatch using the fairleads as you and Mike had mentioned. The amount of workable space to place the line organizer seems limited so I would guess that the fairlead is an essential element here before the halyards turn aft. So here's a question, with this set up do the halyards run above, or adjacent to the lateral aspect of the handrail, and just for clarification in which order do the halyards turn away from the base of the mast with their corresponding deck hardware? For example is it fairlead to deck organizer to clutch/cleat or vice versus minus clutch/ cam cleat? I hope that this query makes sense, and that I haven't confused myself or anyone else reading. Thanks to the both of you for the response Brian h23 Kickin' Back
Peter, thanks for the pic posts, I've seen a bunch of your work in the archives and have gained alot of working knowledge from your experience rigging the 23. The stock traveller definitely needs to be upgraded as you have already found that it is limited in its fine adjustments under sail. I actually think the traveller upgrade should take precedence over running halyards aft etc. but after all this stock 23 is a work in progress. Anyway, I'm a little unsure as to how you cleared the deck rail running adjacent to the hatch using the fairleads as you and Mike had mentioned. The amount of workable space to place the line organizer seems limited so I would guess that the fairlead is an essential element here before the halyards turn aft. So here's a question, with this set up do the halyards run above, or adjacent to the lateral aspect of the handrail, and just for clarification in which order do the halyards turn away from the base of the mast with their corresponding deck hardware? For example is it fairlead to deck organizer to clutch/cleat or vice versus minus clutch/ cam cleat? I hope that this query makes sense, and that I haven't confused myself or anyone else reading. Thanks to the both of you for the response Brian h23 Kickin' Back
Running lines aft
It took me a while to get the deck organizer position just right. With the sheaves in the organizer, the inner line just clears the edge of the handrail, so I didn't bother with the fairleads. Even if the line rubs against the edge of the handrail/mount, chafe should not be a major problem. Besides, the lines are exposed, so they can easily be replaced if chafe becomes serious. The sequence for running the lines aft was: turning block at the mast base to deck organizer to fairlead (if you want) to rope clutch/cleat to winch (if you are raising halyards; most people relocate the one from the mast here for this purpose). Both of my halyards are still cleated on the mast because I go forward anyway to slip the reef cringle over the ram's horn when reefing the mainsail. As a result, the outhaul, reefing line and topping lift are still cleated under the boom as designed. You're absolutely right about the traveler. It was my first modification, then the jib tracks, then the deck organizer. The purpose of all of these mods was to expedite and improve sail control. Staying in the cockpit is not a concern...I still have hank-on headsails. I'm also building a hinged panel for my GPS/depthsounder/autopilot remote that swings out of the way into the cabin when the instruments aren't needed. Stay tuned. Peter H23 "Raven"
It took me a while to get the deck organizer position just right. With the sheaves in the organizer, the inner line just clears the edge of the handrail, so I didn't bother with the fairleads. Even if the line rubs against the edge of the handrail/mount, chafe should not be a major problem. Besides, the lines are exposed, so they can easily be replaced if chafe becomes serious. The sequence for running the lines aft was: turning block at the mast base to deck organizer to fairlead (if you want) to rope clutch/cleat to winch (if you are raising halyards; most people relocate the one from the mast here for this purpose). Both of my halyards are still cleated on the mast because I go forward anyway to slip the reef cringle over the ram's horn when reefing the mainsail. As a result, the outhaul, reefing line and topping lift are still cleated under the boom as designed. You're absolutely right about the traveler. It was my first modification, then the jib tracks, then the deck organizer. The purpose of all of these mods was to expedite and improve sail control. Staying in the cockpit is not a concern...I still have hank-on headsails. I'm also building a hinged panel for my GPS/depthsounder/autopilot remote that swings out of the way into the cabin when the instruments aren't needed. Stay tuned. Peter H23 "Raven"
Traveler Mods Questions for Peter
Peter, Your traveler mods look very good and I plan to attempt this one on my boat. Especially, since I need to replace the endcaps on my stock traveler. Now for the questions. 1. When you did this mod, did you see any ways to improve the drainage around the traveler? (Besides not letting any water get between the traveler and the cabin ;->) On my H23, I always seem to have some water not draining out from behind the traveler. I think it's mainly due to my boat still listing slightly to port. I often have to use a sponge to clear out whatever left but that only works when I'm on the boat. It just doesn't seem that the space between the port end of the traveler and the side of the boat leave enough room to drain. 2. With the mods you have made, I noticed that you have end sheaves with cam cleats on each end. FOund any way to have people not land on these when coming off the cabin top? I think that is why my end caps are all split and need replacing. I figure that if I do this mod, the sheaves and cam cleats will be the new "stepping stone". Thanks for all your info again. You should write a book on H23 mods. j.
Peter, Your traveler mods look very good and I plan to attempt this one on my boat. Especially, since I need to replace the endcaps on my stock traveler. Now for the questions. 1. When you did this mod, did you see any ways to improve the drainage around the traveler? (Besides not letting any water get between the traveler and the cabin ;->) On my H23, I always seem to have some water not draining out from behind the traveler. I think it's mainly due to my boat still listing slightly to port. I often have to use a sponge to clear out whatever left but that only works when I'm on the boat. It just doesn't seem that the space between the port end of the traveler and the side of the boat leave enough room to drain. 2. With the mods you have made, I noticed that you have end sheaves with cam cleats on each end. FOund any way to have people not land on these when coming off the cabin top? I think that is why my end caps are all split and need replacing. I figure that if I do this mod, the sheaves and cam cleats will be the new "stepping stone". Thanks for all your info again. You should write a book on H23 mods. j.
Traveler mods - for Joel
Thanks for the kind words. Unfortunately, I can't take any credit for the aesthetics of the mod, because the parts came straight from Scheafer. All I did was bolt them on. 1) I had no idea how to improve the drainage under the traveler, so I just tried not to make it any worse. I got rid of the water tank and shifted some things to the starboard side of the boat to level things up a bit. There's plenty of room in the lockers under the seats. Putting more weight in the stern might help, but keep in mind that the through-hull for the cockpit drain will be submerged, and if it ever leaks, the boat will sink. 2) The easiest way to solve this one is to stop people from walking on the cabin top. I prefer the sidedecks myself because that's where the non-skid is. Besides, I can use the handrails on the cabin top when going forward. At my age, I try not to bend any more or any farther than I have to. :?) I'm a little confused though. What are these plastic end caps you keep mentioning? The ends of my traveler track are molded into the deck. Are you sure your traveler is stock? I've seen H23's with line-controlled Harken travelers but I didn't think they were stock. Peter H23 "Raven"
Thanks for the kind words. Unfortunately, I can't take any credit for the aesthetics of the mod, because the parts came straight from Scheafer. All I did was bolt them on. 1) I had no idea how to improve the drainage under the traveler, so I just tried not to make it any worse. I got rid of the water tank and shifted some things to the starboard side of the boat to level things up a bit. There's plenty of room in the lockers under the seats. Putting more weight in the stern might help, but keep in mind that the through-hull for the cockpit drain will be submerged, and if it ever leaks, the boat will sink. 2) The easiest way to solve this one is to stop people from walking on the cabin top. I prefer the sidedecks myself because that's where the non-skid is. Besides, I can use the handrails on the cabin top when going forward. At my age, I try not to bend any more or any farther than I have to. :?) I'm a little confused though. What are these plastic end caps you keep mentioning? The ends of my traveler track are molded into the deck. Are you sure your traveler is stock? I've seen H23's with line-controlled Harken travelers but I didn't think they were stock. Peter H23 "Raven"
Traveler drainage issue...
Joel, When I first discovered the drainage issue between the traveler and bulkhead I assumed that it was a manufacturing oversight and that it would become a chronic issue. The thing is it was a chronic issue, and possibly a design flaw as well, until I discovered that underneath the traveler at the corner of the intersection of the cockpit seats and bulkhead on both the port and starboard side are two small drainage wells that allow any trapped water behind the traveler to drain down and into the cockpit. (they are really small, but if you look hard enough you will notice that there is a molded depression in the bulkhead that the traveler rests upon.) I needed to prime each of these slight openings (used a small pipe cleaner or something) and removed the debris that was trapped in them (ex: a pine needle, algae, and other funk). This freed up the drainage well and any left over water simply evaporated never to see any significant collection there again, unless in heavy rain of course but pooling was only temporary. Also, since this was an issue until I discovered the problem I added two small rubber furniture floor protectors to act as spacers(the ones that go on the bottom of chairs) that created some space between the cabin doors and the now occasional puddling water. What this prevented was the accelerated rotting and splitting of the hatch doors (already replaced them custom built last season and don't want to have to do it again for awhile.) I hope I didn't just rant and rave on a topic that you already are aware of but this issue used to drive me nuts until it was remedied. let me know if this info was of any help. Brian h23 kickin' back
Joel, When I first discovered the drainage issue between the traveler and bulkhead I assumed that it was a manufacturing oversight and that it would become a chronic issue. The thing is it was a chronic issue, and possibly a design flaw as well, until I discovered that underneath the traveler at the corner of the intersection of the cockpit seats and bulkhead on both the port and starboard side are two small drainage wells that allow any trapped water behind the traveler to drain down and into the cockpit. (they are really small, but if you look hard enough you will notice that there is a molded depression in the bulkhead that the traveler rests upon.) I needed to prime each of these slight openings (used a small pipe cleaner or something) and removed the debris that was trapped in them (ex: a pine needle, algae, and other funk). This freed up the drainage well and any left over water simply evaporated never to see any significant collection there again, unless in heavy rain of course but pooling was only temporary. Also, since this was an issue until I discovered the problem I added two small rubber furniture floor protectors to act as spacers(the ones that go on the bottom of chairs) that created some space between the cabin doors and the now occasional puddling water. What this prevented was the accelerated rotting and splitting of the hatch doors (already replaced them custom built last season and don't want to have to do it again for awhile.) I hope I didn't just rant and rave on a topic that you already are aware of but this issue used to drive me nuts until it was remedied. let me know if this info was of any help. Brian h23 kickin' back
Traveler Drainage - for Brian
Those two holes are poor drainage at best. If the boat lists slightly (usually to port the outboard, battery and water tank are all on that side) water runs into the corner and builds up to the level of the drain. Even if the drain is clear, water can still seep behind the teak around the companionway and get into the boat. I thought about raising the traveler off the deck with fender washers so the water can get out. However, the perimeter won't be sealed any more, so the risk of water leaking through the traveler bolts will increase. Filling the area outboard of each drain hole with epoxy and sloping it so the water runs right to the drain is ugly but effective (as long as the drains stay open). A dodger may be the only practical solution this problem. Peter H23 "Raven"
Those two holes are poor drainage at best. If the boat lists slightly (usually to port the outboard, battery and water tank are all on that side) water runs into the corner and builds up to the level of the drain. Even if the drain is clear, water can still seep behind the teak around the companionway and get into the boat. I thought about raising the traveler off the deck with fender washers so the water can get out. However, the perimeter won't be sealed any more, so the risk of water leaking through the traveler bolts will increase. Filling the area outboard of each drain hole with epoxy and sloping it so the water runs right to the drain is ugly but effective (as long as the drains stay open). A dodger may be the only practical solution this problem. Peter H23 "Raven"
Track end caps
Peter, The platic caps that I was talking about are on the very ends of the traveler track. I believe they are called "track end caps" and fit were bolted over teh very end of the track to give it "rounded end" as opposed to a straight / square track end. On some boats, I've seen track stops instead. Since the plastic (or hard rubber) material is a dark black color, I'm sure with all the summer sun and wear from being in a wet salted environment, they just deterioarte enough and cracked but I've seen my kids also step right ont he ends of the track when they come off the cabin top and sides. Thanks again. Watching Alinghi and the New Zealanders go at it the other night has me aching to get back out there real soon. Of course, right now, I'm in the middle of yet another snowstorm up here. Expecting between 18-24 inches tonight so I won't be sailing any time soon. joel
Peter, The platic caps that I was talking about are on the very ends of the traveler track. I believe they are called "track end caps" and fit were bolted over teh very end of the track to give it "rounded end" as opposed to a straight / square track end. On some boats, I've seen track stops instead. Since the plastic (or hard rubber) material is a dark black color, I'm sure with all the summer sun and wear from being in a wet salted environment, they just deterioarte enough and cracked but I've seen my kids also step right ont he ends of the track when they come off the cabin top and sides. Thanks again. Watching Alinghi and the New Zealanders go at it the other night has me aching to get back out there real soon. Of course, right now, I'm in the middle of yet another snowstorm up here. Expecting between 18-24 inches tonight so I won't be sailing any time soon. joel
Now I'm really confused - for Joel
The end caps you described sound like those that fit the ends of T-track. Schaefer makes this kind of track too, but I didn't know it could be used for travelers (seems a bit light for that kind of work). The T-track I'm referring to is usually on the side decks with adjustable blocks for sheeting the headsail. On all the H23's I've ever seen, the traveler track is a box cross-section rather than a T. The track end is clearly shown in the closeup of the traveler end in my photo forum post. Does your traveler look like that? Is your boat an H23 or 23.5? Can you post a photo? If you do have T-track, you should be able to get replacement end caps directly from the manufacturer. Peter H23 "Raven"
The end caps you described sound like those that fit the ends of T-track. Schaefer makes this kind of track too, but I didn't know it could be used for travelers (seems a bit light for that kind of work). The T-track I'm referring to is usually on the side decks with adjustable blocks for sheeting the headsail. On all the H23's I've ever seen, the traveler track is a box cross-section rather than a T. The track end is clearly shown in the closeup of the traveler end in my photo forum post. Does your traveler look like that? Is your boat an H23 or 23.5? Can you post a photo? If you do have T-track, you should be able to get replacement end caps directly from the manufacturer. Peter H23 "Raven"
Pix of my installations
I too wanted an easier way of setting my sails with my family on board, so I ran my halyards to the cockpit. I also did not like the "tippiness" of the H 23 so I installed a running backstay that has worked way past my expectations. I dont know about your traveler set up, but mine sucked, manual release of a pin to change the traveler position. I installed a system for this also. I will put the halyard pic on here, the rest will be posted to the picture forum on this site. BTW you will notice in this pic that I have used my original Mainsheet blocks for my boom vang. Good Luck, David Mosley s/v Oh Yeah !
I too wanted an easier way of setting my sails with my family on board, so I ran my halyards to the cockpit. I also did not like the "tippiness" of the H 23 so I installed a running backstay that has worked way past my expectations. I dont know about your traveler set up, but mine sucked, manual release of a pin to change the traveler position. I installed a system for this also. I will put the halyard pic on here, the rest will be posted to the picture forum on this site. BTW you will notice in this pic that I have used my original Mainsheet blocks for my boom vang. Good Luck, David Mosley s/v Oh Yeah !
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Didn't mean to cause such a fuss
My traveler track does look almost identical to the picture that you posted (although mine is a matted black finish). The traveler is the low end Schaefer one. The end caps are similar to the ones listed on the Schaefer Marine page except instead of the square boxy look, my caps are rounded. (I think round was more desireable back in 1987.) The picture I posted is from the Schaefer website.
My traveler track does look almost identical to the picture that you posted (although mine is a matted black finish). The traveler is the low end Schaefer one. The end caps are similar to the ones listed on the Schaefer Marine page except instead of the square boxy look, my caps are rounded. (I think round was more desireable back in 1987.) The picture I posted is from the Schaefer website.
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Thanks Joel and David
No need to apologize Joel, I've never seen an end cap like that. It looks a bit like the Harken end cap. My deck setup is similar to David's except I have cam cleats instead of rope clutches. I ran my vang and cunningham to the cockpit so I can adjust these sail controls while under way. My halyards, reefing line, outhaul and topping lift are still at the mast. I left them there since I figured I'd have to go up there anyway when reefing to slip the tack cringle over the rams horn. Peter H23 "raven"
No need to apologize Joel, I've never seen an end cap like that. It looks a bit like the Harken end cap. My deck setup is similar to David's except I have cam cleats instead of rope clutches. I ran my vang and cunningham to the cockpit so I can adjust these sail controls while under way. My halyards, reefing line, outhaul and topping lift are still at the mast. I left them there since I figured I'd have to go up there anyway when reefing to slip the tack cringle over the rams horn. Peter H23 "raven"
thanks David
David, I'm definitely looking forward to more pics of your upgrades. One quesion though...What is a running backstay? I thought it might be one with the ability for adjustment of mast rake but I'm not sure. thank again Brian H23 kickin' back
David, I'm definitely looking forward to more pics of your upgrades. One quesion though...What is a running backstay? I thought it might be one with the ability for adjustment of mast rake but I'm not sure. thank again Brian H23 kickin' back
Runing backstay - for Brian
A running backstay allows you to bend the mast while under way. It adjusts rake as well, but only a little and only as a consequence of bending. I posted something about mast bend a while back. The stock split backstay on the H23 is fixed for all practical purposes. The easiest way to make it adjustable ("run") is to mount one of those plates with four wheels on the two wires below the split and provide a tackle to pull it down. As the plate rolls down along the wires, it pulls them together and shortens the backstay. This pulls the masthead back. Since the point where the forestay attaches to the mast can't move (much) the mid-section of the mast responds by moving forward; the mast bends like a bow. The effect on mainsail trim is dramatic. One you make this mod , you'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner. The Harken catalog shows several other ways of rigging a running backstay but this is the easiest way. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
A running backstay allows you to bend the mast while under way. It adjusts rake as well, but only a little and only as a consequence of bending. I posted something about mast bend a while back. The stock split backstay on the H23 is fixed for all practical purposes. The easiest way to make it adjustable ("run") is to mount one of those plates with four wheels on the two wires below the split and provide a tackle to pull it down. As the plate rolls down along the wires, it pulls them together and shortens the backstay. This pulls the masthead back. Since the point where the forestay attaches to the mast can't move (much) the mid-section of the mast responds by moving forward; the mast bends like a bow. The effect on mainsail trim is dramatic. One you make this mod , you'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner. The Harken catalog shows several other ways of rigging a running backstay but this is the easiest way. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
Running Backstay = Flatter sail
A flat sail is a "depowered sail". Ther are 2 good ways of getting an "on the fly" adjustable sail flattener. I am most familiar with the cunningham or downhaul adjustment, but on monohulls I see the backstay used more often. I primarily race catamarans and we play the downhaul in a puff instead of easing the main or pinching. Since most beach cats do not have a backstay, it is the best way for us to depower under sail. I am definitely not an expert sail trimmer nor do I claim to know much about monohull racing, but the backstay seems to have a similar effect on the sail as the cunningham/downhaul. I am sure someone on this forum can tell us the difference in how they work, but the end result is a better balanced boat. Good Luck with your boat David Mosley
A flat sail is a "depowered sail". Ther are 2 good ways of getting an "on the fly" adjustable sail flattener. I am most familiar with the cunningham or downhaul adjustment, but on monohulls I see the backstay used more often. I primarily race catamarans and we play the downhaul in a puff instead of easing the main or pinching. Since most beach cats do not have a backstay, it is the best way for us to depower under sail. I am definitely not an expert sail trimmer nor do I claim to know much about monohull racing, but the backstay seems to have a similar effect on the sail as the cunningham/downhaul. I am sure someone on this forum can tell us the difference in how they work, but the end result is a better balanced boat. Good Luck with your boat David Mosley
Running Backstay pics? (Peter?)
Peter, [EDIT..... Ignore the first question, Peter. I just saw your other post about Mast Rake vs. mast bend where you mentioned you didn't have pictures.] Do you have any pictures of your modified backstay? Besides adding this "plate" onto the existing backstay, did you have to make any other major mods? Anything you need to be especially careful about when making this mod? I would assume that breaking a backstay is one thing you should really try to avoid. (I was in a race once on a larger boat (34') where the forestay let go. Luckily, we had the jib up at the time which meant the mast was still supported by the jib halyard but it did make for an interesting few moments.) I can't wait for spring to get here. Had to go out and clear the snow off the tarp again this weekend. Sure seems like I'm doing that much more this year than I ever had to in the past few.
Peter, [EDIT..... Ignore the first question, Peter. I just saw your other post about Mast Rake vs. mast bend where you mentioned you didn't have pictures.] Do you have any pictures of your modified backstay? Besides adding this "plate" onto the existing backstay, did you have to make any other major mods? Anything you need to be especially careful about when making this mod? I would assume that breaking a backstay is one thing you should really try to avoid. (I was in a race once on a larger boat (34') where the forestay let go. Luckily, we had the jib up at the time which meant the mast was still supported by the jib halyard but it did make for an interesting few moments.) I can't wait for spring to get here. Had to go out and clear the snow off the tarp again this weekend. Sure seems like I'm doing that much more this year than I ever had to in the past few.
Here's my running backstay
I dug through my archives and found this photo. Note the split backstay adjuster with the single sheave beneath and the tackle with the triple blocks on the starboard side. Damn, one picture IS worth a thousand words! Peter H23 "Raven"
I dug through my archives and found this photo. Note the split backstay adjuster with the single sheave beneath and the tackle with the triple blocks on the starboard side. Damn, one picture IS worth a thousand words! Peter H23 "Raven"
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- Status