Simpson Lawrence replacement on 2006 Hunter 38

[JH10920]

Hello all,
Corrosion has eaten the Sprint Atlantic "B" down to nothing and I'm looking for a replacement windlass.

The British supplier of S/L parts has been contacted but I'm looking for a new one first.
I've spec'd the Lewmar V2, but the problem is the baseplate. It was specially made for Hunter by Lewmar to drop the chain down a "chute" into the forward locker rather than the standard dropping the chain down a pipe into a locker below decks.
I've seen posts describing two methods of adapting a windlass to Hunter's design: positioning the windlass further forward so that the chain drops onto the "chute", or grinding away some metal on the bottom (in this case a Lewmar V2) of the windlass that would then allow the chain to drop into the "chute"


Does anyone know of a direct replacement for this windlass without modifications?
And/or d oes anyone have experience with the adapting a windlass to the Hunter design?

Thank you for your input.
John Higbie

 

[JamesG161]

I replaced my SL windlass from that supplier in UK. Working great.
Mine had partially stripped gear.

The problem I see is that water leaked on the old SL gear box. It will happen to all windlass designs.
Stop that leak!
Jim...

 

[senang]

On my 2005 Hunter 38 hull nº 106 the windlass is a Quick model Aries 1012, 1000W for 10mm chain. Quick is from Italy.

 

[JH10920]

Thanks for the replies. Yes, definite water intrusion. The shaft was frozen to the gearbox, and the bearing was locked up. PO said maintenance wasn't necessary on a windlass!
I'll check on the Aries. The baseplate is the problem. It was a "special" manufactured by Lewmar for Hunter (thus the "B" designation on the Sprint Atlantic" and according to Al at this website, Quick wants 100 min order for him to get more units.
I'm following up with the England fellow to buy parts to continue to use my current unit and also with Quick to buy a new one.
If the Hunter owner on this site who used a grinder to "fix" a Lewmar V2 to work with Hunter's setup could contact me, I'd appreciate it. I'll look for his post.

 

[JamesG161]

If you main interior gear is intact, I have a complete gear box with no corrosion that I can sell you for a responsible price.
How was your motor?
Jim...

 

[JH10920]

I'm not sure what the interior gear is. Is it the shaft? The motor is operating, but I will probably have it serviced so I don't know how good it is. The gearbox/flange is toast. The shaft may be unusable since we pounded it out of the gearbox. I haven't taken the motor/gearbox apart yet, if it will come apart. I'm missing the bearing and circlip that goes on the upper unit. The upper unit is good. Yours is the Simpson Lawrence Sprint Atlantic "B" unit, correct? Can you send pictures of what you have?
John

 

[JamesG161]

I haven't taken the motor/gearbox apart yet

When you open the gear box, if possible, you will fine some bronze fine tooth gears.
The largest of the thin gears had a spot on mine stripped off, so it would "jump" a bit. If we stopped it on that spot, no action at all. We could then "bump" the windlass and it would finally work.

If that largest gear is intact, you just need to use that on my gear box.
Jim...

 

[JamesG161]

Yours is the Simpson Lawrence Sprint Atlantic "B" unit, correct?

No, but I uploaded my manual here...
https://hunter.sailboatowners.com/dl/downloads.php
Anchorman 1000 manual
Jim...

 

[JH10920]

No, but I uploaded my manual here...
https://hunter.sailboatowners.com/dl/downloads.php
Anchorman 1000 manual
Jim...

Jim,
We tore the unit apart and this is what we have. The gears are good, and I can replace the bearings. The bottom flange (the one with the gears on it) is ok. The top flange is gone. Does this look like your unit?

 

[dakno]

Thats some crazy corrosion. I finally found maintenance specs for my SL 1000 and pulled the gypsy and drum, cleaned and lubed. It needed it badly. I'm certain this is the 1st time its been apart since new. I will do every 2 years . Clean and lube your windless!

 

[JamesG161]

Your first picture is at a slight angle so I couldn't see all the gears.
But that main gear shown is much thicker than mine so I dont think it matches.
I will see if I took pictures of my internal gears.
Jim...

 

[JH10920]

James, thanks for offering the part. I'm going to take care of the problem once an for all (knock on wood) and splurge for a new Lewmar V2, grind down the pipe, and be done with it for the next 1 to 10 years. I'll keep the S/L parts around.

 

[forbin]

I have a similar situation with a V2 but the corrosion isn’t quite that bad and it’s still working fine, but it does look like it’s not worth trying to take it apart because something would probably break.

Is there any possibility of extending the life of the housing until it finally breaks? Wire brush and repaint? Clean with some solution, brush, repaint? Coat with some corrosion inhibitor? Or is it all too late and we should just wait for it to fail?

 

[JamesG161]

Stop that leak!

That will stop the corrosion.
Painting works for a while.
Jim...

 

[flightlead404]

Thanks for the replies. Yes, definite water intrusion. The shaft was frozen to the gearbox, and the bearing was locked up. PO said maintenance wasn't necessary on a windlass!
I'll check on the Aries. The baseplate is the problem. It was a "special" manufactured by Lewmar for Hunter (thus the "B" designation on the Sprint Atlantic" and according to Al at this website, Quick wants 100 min order for him to get more units.
I'm following up with the England fellow to buy parts to continue to use my current unit and also with Quick to buy a new one.
If the Hunter owner on this site who used a grinder to "fix" a Lewmar V2 to work with Hunter's setup could contact me, I'd appreciate it. I'll look for his post.

Is there enough left of that baseplate to take to a local machinist and have it copied?