Simple answer about paint

[Brian S]

Yeah, that part about cleaning off the wax first is important. Even boats that have been around a loooooong time can still have mold release wax on the gelcoat!

The only time you might want to sand gelcoat to the point of getting it "off" is to knock down the non-skid areas so they are smooth, such that you repaint that area with a non-skid paint. Non-skid options are Interlux Interdeck, Kiwi-grip, even Rustoleum with an abrasive mixed in. Just be careful that it's not too aggressive in areas where you're going to sit. The old standard for non-skid additive is crushed walnut shells, and I suspect this is less sharp and aggressive than crushed pumice, for example. I even know people who sprinkle granular sugar on the final coat of wet paint or varnish, allow the paint or varnish to dry, and then wash off the sugar with water. This puts a texture of minute craters where each granule of sugar was sitting on the wet paint. Clever, I think, but perhaps not as long lived as mixing in something to the paint. I hear that the Interlux Interdeck is very nice, with an excellent grippy finish that's also easy on skin.

Brian

 

[chp]

Good thread. Gave me some answers. I two want to strip the remaining ablative off mine which turns to a chalky light blue and coppery brown colour sitting on the trailer. I understand it is supposed to stay wet. I want the bottom painted for purley aestetic reasons. I did use rustoleum to paint my rudder when I did a mod on the leading edge and it has held up well for 3 years. The longest the boat is ever in the water is 1 week and any scum on the rudder just washes off. I do keep it well waxed.
I often wondered if the rustoleum would hold up on the hull bottom especially on the trailer bunks. Looks like I have a spring project to look forward to. I'll have to study how to do the roll and tipping paint method.

 

[rgranger]

Roll and tip is simple...

You want to use the rollers made specially for a smooth finish...

they look like this...

... and you can find them at Lowes or Walmart.

Roll the paint on... and then using a dry 2" cut brush, gently drag the very tip of the brush over the top of the rolled on paint. The idea is that you are "knocking down ... or tipping over" the high spots in the paint. You don't want to drag so hard that you leave brush stokes... very gently.....

Then the paints natural leveling will give it a nice smooth finish. Use high gloss rustoleum for great shine. The Mac 22' pictured above has rustoleum on the bottom..... you can see the trailer's reflection in the bottom paint.

 

[Bill sanders]

Kind of off subject,while camping today"Saturday" had two couples wanted a ride in sailboat. Which I thoroughly enjoy! But one rider mention paint. Come to find out he is a sherwin Williams dealer! I will be getting a discount at his store!!! Oh yea!!!!!!

 

[Douglast]

I removed my bottom paint and just painted it with interlux 2 part epoxy..great for fresh water...slick and hard..

 

[gary3_aero]

I'm glad to have come across this post. I am getting ready to paint a Macgregor 22-2, and I was wondering about the rustoleum. Does it work with air powered spraying application or does the roll and tip method work better?

 

[rgranger]

I'm glad to have come across this post. I am getting ready to paint a Macgregor 22-2, and I was wondering about the rustoleum. Does it work with air powered spraying application or does the roll and tip method work better?

This was my Mac 22-2. The bottom is Rustoleum, the sides are something else... all roll & tip.

If you go with a sprayer, you should wear a respirator... and it is a lot more work for something that is a toy and should (if used properly) get banged up again.

Just 2-cents...

 

[gary3_aero]

This was my Mac 22-2. The bottom is Rustoleum, the sides are something else... all roll & tip.

If you go with a sprayer, you should wear a respirator... and it is a lot more work for something that is a toy and should (if used properly) get banged up again.

Just 2-cents...

That is good to know... I have a full paint booth at my disposal with repiration equipment so no worries there, but if the roller application looks good it sure would be alot less trouble than spraying. My biggest worry was that the roller method wouldnt turn out as nice. I was also concerned if rustoleum holds up to beaching the craft. Its not necessary for me to beach the craft but here are alot of nice beaches to pull up to here in michigan... nice to have that option available. Thank you!

 

[rgranger]

That is good to know... I have a full paint booth at my disposal with repiration equipment so no worries there, but if the roller application looks good it sure would be alot less trouble than spraying. My biggest worry was that the roller method wouldnt turn out as nice. I was also concerned if rustoleum holds up to beaching the craft. Its not necessary for me to beach the craft but here are alot of nice beaches to pull up to here in michigan... nice to have that option available. Thank you!

A couple of thoughts on that.... first.... the big advantage of Rustoleum is that you can find an exact color match years later... so beach on my friend.

Second... it is roll and tip, not just roll. I think if you use the roller method without tipping, you will be disappointing in the paint job. Here is a pic of the first boat I rolled and tipped, it is a Mac V21. The entire sides are a Rustoleum blue called "Sail Blue".

 

[gary3_aero]

Perfect! Thank you.



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Now where did you find the rustolium brand paint? I live in St. Louis area and no one carries the marine paint

The best deal on the Rustoleum I can find is at Menards. you can order to the store at Home Depot, but Menards usually has it in stock on top of being the lowest price.


And thank you everyone for all the other info!!