Should the through whole valves be oiled *!

[Chip Willis]

before being installed? The two (a plastic and bronze) that I am replacing seem hard to turn and they are bran new. The one I replaced the plastic I am having second thoughts on as the manufacture says to oil every year, by taking apart, now how can I do that without a diver or pulling the boat out onto the hard. The bronze one I bought has a plug in the side and I am thinking it is for oil. I might just replace the plastic one I bought and installed with another bronze one before the diver takes out the wooden plug, he is coming by next week to hold a plunger over the through whole so I can replace the head out through whole valve which is a broken bronze one.Should I oil them now or does it matter?ThanksCW

 

[Chip Willis]

I called Forspar the distributor

I called Forspar the distributor for the black plastic valves and they said they come with silicone greases (pre-grassed) and should be moved once a month. They will eventually break if not greased. The key word being eventually, the one I replaced lasted 20 years, I bet it was never greased. He said they really just need to me moved back and forth regularly. The bronze valves are maintenance free so says West Marine. Guess I answered my own question.CW

 

[Tom S]

Here is Forespars website on exactly your question

http://www.forespar.com/resources/tips/MarelonLube.htmThat said I have a 5 years old C36 and I have yet to grease the marelon seacocks (Bad tom !...LOL). But they seems to be working fine. I move them once in a while, but I confess to not moving one or two that often at all. They seem to be working ok, but if they seems stiff I would pour some vegetable oil down and work the handle a bit - probably only a temporary fix, lanacote or other "solid" lubrucant lasts much longerBTW, I have heard on the older designed Marelon Seacocks (over 10 yeras old?? Don't know) the handles weren't designed as "beefy" as they are now and if you **never** used them and it was really stuck you could crack the handle off. The actual seacock wouldn't break, just the handle (which is still not a good thing). I thought I heard Forespar was providing free handle upgrade kits, I would ask about that.

 

[RonD]

A marine grade waterproof grease

... should be used on those Marlon (black plastic) seacocks. Close the valve & just rub some inside (where the ball is) with your finger. Then open/close/open the valve an put another coating (where the ball was). Close/open a few more cycles to distribute the lubrication. Once a year should be sufficient.

 

[Joe]

freeze plug in side of valve

The plug in the side of your brass valve is so you can drain the water out of it when it is closed so it won't freeze and crack the valve.