Hello, I recently purchased a 1988 Catalina 27 and need to install a battery charger. I've researched and looked online and still have more questions than answers. The boat has two batteries and the 1,2,ALL,Off switch, and shorepower A/C connection. I would appreciate any info on current installations, including brand names, amps, wire length, etc. Thanks all, Luis
Shorepower Battery charger
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Multi-Stage 10 Amp
A multi-stage, 10 amp, "hard-wired", two-bank charger should work fine. You should be able to find something suitable in the $125 range. West Marine has a pretty good "Advisor" write-up on installing a charger that you might want to check out. I think that if you check out a few catalogs and or websites such as West Marine, Boat US, etc. you'll get a feel for the major manufacturers and prices. I have a West Marine storebrand charger that has served me well. I think its very similar to the TruCharge model that is in West Marine's catalog.
A multi-stage, 10 amp, "hard-wired", two-bank charger should work fine. You should be able to find something suitable in the $125 range. West Marine has a pretty good "Advisor" write-up on installing a charger that you might want to check out. I think that if you check out a few catalogs and or websites such as West Marine, Boat US, etc. you'll get a feel for the major manufacturers and prices. I have a West Marine storebrand charger that has served me well. I think its very similar to the TruCharge model that is in West Marine's catalog.
Try the Guest 2611
rather than the 2610. I looked at both, and chose the 2611 for my '74 C27. It is only a few dollars more, but comes with all the hook-up wires already attached. I figured the slight additional cost for the 2611 was more than offset by the savings in not having to buy the wires and connectors. AND YOU DON'T NEED 10 GAUGE WIRE! Remember the 2610 or 2611 is only processing about 5 amps in each circuit to each battery . The 2611 is wired with something like 16 gauge wires, which would seem to be overkill for the 5 amps. I use the 2611 with 2 group 24 batteries, and it will charge them up from a 50% discharge in about 12 hours. I use one battery till it's 50% gone, then switch to the second, so I've always got one that's highly charged, and one lower. I rigged the 2611 with a switch, so I could feed both leads to one battery (rather than 1 to each) when I need to charge one battery more quickly than the 5 amps will do. I mounted it on the vertical bulkhead separating the cockpit and the starboard 1/4 berth, so I could easily see the red and green LED's on the 2611 that indicate charging status, and so it would get good air circulation for cooling. It's also near both the batteries and shorepower inlet on my boat.
rather than the 2610. I looked at both, and chose the 2611 for my '74 C27. It is only a few dollars more, but comes with all the hook-up wires already attached. I figured the slight additional cost for the 2611 was more than offset by the savings in not having to buy the wires and connectors. AND YOU DON'T NEED 10 GAUGE WIRE! Remember the 2610 or 2611 is only processing about 5 amps in each circuit to each battery . The 2611 is wired with something like 16 gauge wires, which would seem to be overkill for the 5 amps. I use the 2611 with 2 group 24 batteries, and it will charge them up from a 50% discharge in about 12 hours. I use one battery till it's 50% gone, then switch to the second, so I've always got one that's highly charged, and one lower. I rigged the 2611 with a switch, so I could feed both leads to one battery (rather than 1 to each) when I need to charge one battery more quickly than the 5 amps will do. I mounted it on the vertical bulkhead separating the cockpit and the starboard 1/4 berth, so I could easily see the red and green LED's on the 2611 that indicate charging status, and so it would get good air circulation for cooling. It's also near both the batteries and shorepower inlet on my boat.
Thanks, Peter
I'll check up on the 2611. In my boat, the batteries and shore power are on the port side and the bulkhead would be between the galley and cockpit, but the arrangement makes sense anyway. Excuse my ignorance, but how do I check on th ebattery charge? The meter at the panel? Thanks again for all you help.
I'll check up on the 2611. In my boat, the batteries and shore power are on the port side and the bulkhead would be between the galley and cockpit, but the arrangement makes sense anyway. Excuse my ignorance, but how do I check on th ebattery charge? The meter at the panel? Thanks again for all you help.
I have a Link 20
monitor, and that is read from the Link meter. Link's 10 or 20's are $200-450 depending on where you buy, and which version you get. (There are other meters, not such good info, but cheaper - like $100+/-.) You want to be sure the batteries are fully charged when you install the Link meter so you've got a good starting point. As part of the install, you tell the meter the amp hours in each battery bank when fully charged. The Link then gives you the current charge or discharge rate into or out of each battery bank. It also tells you the amp/hours which have been drained from the battery bank, the number of hours remaining in the battery at the current discharge rate (if you're discharging) and the voltage in each bank. For me who anchors out a lot, with only an OB motor, and therefore very little charging capacity (I have a 1.5+/-amp solar charger too), I need all the battery info I can get. Or you can just watch the voltmeter. 13.2-13.5 volts or 1.28 specific gravity reading per cell is fully charged. The 2611 will know when it gets close to that, and slow the amps going into the batteries to a trickle. The 2611 is really "plug in and forget", as long as you don't have the problem of not enough overnite plug-in time (at 5 amps or less per battery bank) to comfortably recharge, given the time you're connected to shorepower. I really like the Link!! I'm not so sold on the Guest, but it works OK for me. The only issue I have is that it reduces it's amp/hours charging rate as the battery voltage it senses goes up, so as it gets closer to fuly charged, the amps input and therefore remaining time to charge gets slower. So when I pull into a marina with batteries needing 40 amp hours, it might actually take 12-14 hours or longer rather than the 8 which you might expect (at 5 amps). But I understand they're all like that. Must be some electrical technical thing... (After all, I'm a CPA, not an electrician!) Good luck, and let me know if I can give you any more info!
monitor, and that is read from the Link meter. Link's 10 or 20's are $200-450 depending on where you buy, and which version you get. (There are other meters, not such good info, but cheaper - like $100+/-.) You want to be sure the batteries are fully charged when you install the Link meter so you've got a good starting point. As part of the install, you tell the meter the amp hours in each battery bank when fully charged. The Link then gives you the current charge or discharge rate into or out of each battery bank. It also tells you the amp/hours which have been drained from the battery bank, the number of hours remaining in the battery at the current discharge rate (if you're discharging) and the voltage in each bank. For me who anchors out a lot, with only an OB motor, and therefore very little charging capacity (I have a 1.5+/-amp solar charger too), I need all the battery info I can get. Or you can just watch the voltmeter. 13.2-13.5 volts or 1.28 specific gravity reading per cell is fully charged. The 2611 will know when it gets close to that, and slow the amps going into the batteries to a trickle. The 2611 is really "plug in and forget", as long as you don't have the problem of not enough overnite plug-in time (at 5 amps or less per battery bank) to comfortably recharge, given the time you're connected to shorepower. I really like the Link!! I'm not so sold on the Guest, but it works OK for me. The only issue I have is that it reduces it's amp/hours charging rate as the battery voltage it senses goes up, so as it gets closer to fuly charged, the amps input and therefore remaining time to charge gets slower. So when I pull into a marina with batteries needing 40 amp hours, it might actually take 12-14 hours or longer rather than the 8 which you might expect (at 5 amps). But I understand they're all like that. Must be some electrical technical thing... (After all, I'm a CPA, not an electrician!) Good luck, and let me know if I can give you any more info!
Wrong Battery Voltage Quote...
After I wrote that last post, I checked the books, as I wasn't sure the 13+ volts I quoted for a fully charged 12V battery was right. Don Casey's "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" says fully charged is actually about 12.6 V. Most battery cahrgers pump in 13+ while charging, but the battery doesn't come all the way up to that voltage. Sorry about that!
After I wrote that last post, I checked the books, as I wasn't sure the 13+ volts I quoted for a fully charged 12V battery was right. Don Casey's "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" says fully charged is actually about 12.6 V. Most battery cahrgers pump in 13+ while charging, but the battery doesn't come all the way up to that voltage. Sorry about that!
AC connection?
Peter, the reason I was leaning towards the 2610 was because, as I understand it, the other chargers (including 2611?) have a 'regular' AC plug, which I would need to plug into a 'regular' outlet. I have shore power from that big yellow cable and the 'twist-lock' plug. How did you connect your 2611 to shore power, through an extension cord or an installation like mine? Thanks again/Luis
Peter, the reason I was leaning towards the 2610 was because, as I understand it, the other chargers (including 2611?) have a 'regular' AC plug, which I would need to plug into a 'regular' outlet. I have shore power from that big yellow cable and the 'twist-lock' plug. How did you connect your 2611 to shore power, through an extension cord or an installation like mine? Thanks again/Luis
2611 Wiring
Luis, I use the 2611 as it comes from the factory. My 30-amp shorepower (the big yellow power cord) comes thru a marine twist-lock type connector on the starboard cockpit coaming, then down below it splits to 2 fused duplex 15AMP GFI outlets. Plugged into one of these outlets is the 3-prong male plug on the 2611. The better way would be to run the 30-amp shorepower into a distribution panel, and hard-wire the 2611 (or 2610 if you go that way) direct into the panel. Mine's not "up to code", but the GFI at the inlet connection protects all the downstream connections. If you went with the hardwired to the panel version, the only thing you'd need to do is strip off the 3-prong male AC plug on the 2611, and connect those wires direct to the panel. Still cheaper and easier than buying all the cables and connectors and doing it yourself, as you'd have to with the 2610.
Luis, I use the 2611 as it comes from the factory. My 30-amp shorepower (the big yellow power cord) comes thru a marine twist-lock type connector on the starboard cockpit coaming, then down below it splits to 2 fused duplex 15AMP GFI outlets. Plugged into one of these outlets is the 3-prong male plug on the 2611. The better way would be to run the 30-amp shorepower into a distribution panel, and hard-wire the 2611 (or 2610 if you go that way) direct into the panel. Mine's not "up to code", but the GFI at the inlet connection protects all the downstream connections. If you went with the hardwired to the panel version, the only thing you'd need to do is strip off the 3-prong male AC plug on the 2611, and connect those wires direct to the panel. Still cheaper and easier than buying all the cables and connectors and doing it yourself, as you'd have to with the 2610.
I get a few days
out of 2 group 24s, drawing them down no more than the recommended 50% charge, if I'm careful. But I like to bring the 12V VCR and the TV, etc., and I can spend upwards of a week at anchor. So I'm always stingy with power. The solar panels can put about 10amp/hours a day back in. My boat has LED running lights, I always run the VHF at one watt if I can, the TV is a low draw LCD model You just have to do an energy budget and be sure that for the time you'll be away from shorepower, you won't draw out more amps than your bank holds + what you put back in. An inboard with an alternator is a big help in this area. (My boat is an outboard model.)
out of 2 group 24s, drawing them down no more than the recommended 50% charge, if I'm careful. But I like to bring the 12V VCR and the TV, etc., and I can spend upwards of a week at anchor. So I'm always stingy with power. The solar panels can put about 10amp/hours a day back in. My boat has LED running lights, I always run the VHF at one watt if I can, the TV is a low draw LCD model You just have to do an energy budget and be sure that for the time you'll be away from shorepower, you won't draw out more amps than your bank holds + what you put back in. An inboard with an alternator is a big help in this area. (My boat is an outboard model.)
J
JohnOlson
soler panels work great
I am on amoring and stay onbord every weekend and for weeks at atime and I have a155 amp alt and smart regulator and 500+ amphr gell battreys and the 132 watt soler pannels make a big diffrence .the alt keeps me charged up between 50% and 80% fullcharge but the solar chargeing tops me off when Im not there . and the solar charge keeps me full charge all winter and the battreys stay on bord.and I have 100 wat glass panel over the pulpit on ss 1" tube Its great to stand under in the hot sun I wish I got asize lager for more shade. When I was at a dock I used a heart 1000 wat inverter charger and still use it to work tools and microwave for pop corn. Hope Ive helped John Olson
I am on amoring and stay onbord every weekend and for weeks at atime and I have a155 amp alt and smart regulator and 500+ amphr gell battreys and the 132 watt soler pannels make a big diffrence .the alt keeps me charged up between 50% and 80% fullcharge but the solar chargeing tops me off when Im not there . and the solar charge keeps me full charge all winter and the battreys stay on bord.and I have 100 wat glass panel over the pulpit on ss 1" tube Its great to stand under in the hot sun I wish I got asize lager for more shade. When I was at a dock I used a heart 1000 wat inverter charger and still use it to work tools and microwave for pop corn. Hope Ive helped John Olson
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