Shifter cable

JoeWhite · May 6, 2026

To test if you need a new cable disconnect from transmission or whatever it is connected, then move the lever back and forth. It should move with very little effort. Or you can pull the cable out completely and lay it on the ground and pull and push on the center cable ,it should move effortlessly. To lubricate use sewing machine oil or electric shaver oil, they do not gum up.
There is a youtube video that shows how to force lubrication in to the cable using air pressure.
I will try to find it.
What does the manufacturer say about lubrication?

colemj · May 6, 2026

All manufacturers of these shift/throttle cable say do not lubricate them. They are teflon lined and permanently lubricated. If the cable is sticking or binding, then it is because there has been internal damage to the teflon lining and the outer metal sheath is corroding inward. At this point, the cable absolutely needs to be replaced, and is a ticking time bomb. Lubricating it is hiding the problem until it is too late.

I mean, you can't lubricate it in place because there is no way to get an even application throughout the entire length. So you need to pull it out, rig up a Rube Goldberg device and try to force oil through it. At that point, just replace the cable. You have it out anyway, and the effort of lubricating it is far more than the effort of buying a new cable.

Besides, the OP needs a new cable, as evidenced by the completely torn off protective sheathing. It is a ticking time bomb right now.

Mark

colemj · May 6, 2026

dlochner said:
Looks like there is a pulley and a conduit.

I see that now that you point it out. Usually these conduit systems are oriented so the cable goes straight to the conduit and no idler pulleys are needed. That is the main point and advantage of using a conduit system. I guess the manufacturer just couldn't fit the geometry at that end due to constraints and put in a pulley.

Mark

BigEasy · May 6, 2026

Photo 1 clearly shows the plastic cable cover split & underlying metal cable casing corroded. @fred1diver is absolutely correct in deciding to replace the cable before it breaks at an undesirable moment. And, I once disassembled a teleflex cable & repaired; the repair was successful; however, it wasn’t worth the effort. Just replace it & be done with it.

dlochner · May 7, 2026

There isn't much space in the pedestal to work. Lots of PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, time, heat, and an impact driver on the bolt holding the clamp would be the standard solution. An aluminum pedestal and an SS bolt is not a marriage made in heaven.

While you're deep in the pedestal, it is probably a good idea to replace the throttle cable too. If the shift cable has failed the throttle cable is probably headed that way too.

Removing the chain will require disconnecting the cables from the quadrant, this will allow you to closely inspect the steering cables. These can break, last week a friend broke a steering cable 120 nm north of Bermuda. He had to hand steer with the emergency tiller to Bermuda, it wasn't fun. Don't forget to cross the cables when they are reinstalled.

BigEasy · May 7, 2026

Thats going to be a B…. trying to remove those corroded clamp bolts. Would it be possible to grind the heads off the clamp bolts & punch them into the interior of the pedestal, then retrieve the clamp & bolt cutoffs from the bottom of the pedestal?

dlochner · May 7, 2026

fred1diver said:
Ok, I am at a loss now
Tried as much as I could from the bottom (pulling from below, and after trying for a while, I decided to take a pic of what is blocking me.
All I can say is there is no way it can go from below.
Can someone please guide me step by step on how to go from the top, I need to remove the chain, or at least loosen it, and I have no idea how

On the steering quadrant there should be 2 eye bolts that are double nutted. The steering cables end there. The nuts are either 7/16" or ½". The cables are attached to these with cable clamps.

Richard19068 · May 7, 2026

I did mine a few years ago. A pain in the neck process but doable.

This is the best video I have seen about it. Hopefully it will help a bit.

You definitely want to change both of them at the same go.

Good luck.

PS: I don't recall having to loosen my chain to get the cable bracket to come up . Maybe I forgot or maybe I got lucky.
If you need to loosen your chain, the Edson website has videos about that.

dlochner · May 9, 2026

fred1diver said:
Quick question, might be a crazy one, but has anyone cut an opening and closed it off to access the cable clamp?
Would it be safe to do? Or would it structurally weaken the pedestal?

That would be an act of extreme desperation. I wouldn't go there.

There are extra long arm wrenches. Here's an example from Canadian Tire. They may give you the extra reach you need. Amazon also has them.

General PDP Template

www.canadiantire.ca

JoeWhite · May 22, 2026

3rd option. Plus take multiple photos

jssailem · May 23, 2026

Yes.

@JoeWhite. Messenger line will help til it gets stuck. Then you may have to result to finagling them through. A wire fish is another option that may help. Be sure to make no tight turns. Large radius turns so that the cable continues to move smoothly.

Justin_NSA · May 23, 2026

Interesting about the lengths. I just replaced my shifter and throttle cables from SBO on my Hunter H30T. The descriptions were backwards. The throttle should have been the longer one (2' feet). Fortunately I could recover by switching them under the aft berth. Doesn't really matter if you order both, but if you just order the specified throttle cable, it's too short. I advised SBO but never got an acknowledgement.

colemj · May 23, 2026

They are only short if you measured short? Or did you find a different longer path for them?

How did the shifter work with a compass there? Usually they sit lower than a cap across the top. But a spacer sounds like it would solve your issue.

Mark

Shifter cable

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SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

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