serious bulkhead rot!
- Thread starter bugbitten
- Start date
ware protection on your hands and arms and ventilate will this stuff can work into your system and my cause an allergy......like itching or sneezing...if you get it on your skin keep some white vinegar hand to flush it off or skin i have been told that it will neutralize it to some extent not sure how true that is lol
I cleaned up around the knee a bit today so I could get some measurements and pics. I'll upload two shots. The plywood seems to be about 1 1/2" thick (measuring about 1 3/4" with the fiberglass). It is pretty thoroughly rotted down to the bottom of the chainplate, and seems solid after that (about the last six inches). Would you expect to cut the whole thing out, then glass in a 1 1/2" slab of high-quality marine ply. Can you sandwich two 3/4" slabs together? I want to order a piece from one of the Bay wooden boat kit suppliers, since they use only premium materials, but any help on what to order would be good. I've already got a gallon of West System on hand. I keep the boat heated, so curing shouldn't be an issue.
John
John
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that knee is made up of two 3/4 pieces of plywood sandwiched together ...take out 1/2 only at a time to insure you will be back exactly at the same place you started from make new one half and place it beside the half you didn't cut out and glass it in on one side only when it has set then take out the other half and do the same thing again only this time glass between the two new pieces and all side and joining points and also put a couple of c clamps on the whole thing so you make a good bond between the two halves...oh and when you are cured in on the first half drill your holes in the new half then when you have it all replaced finish drilling the new holes in the last new half ...from your pic that looks more like a lower knee rather than an upper shroud knee have i got you confused yet lol
I'm really surprised how short the chainplates are but I'm no boat designer..mine are about a foot long.....
mine on the lowers are about a foot long and the uppers are combined with a bulkhead on each side making it a full circle across the mast step base under the mast strut across the keel
I had to read it a few times, but I think I've got it! I'll get some wood ordered, get the spare halyard snugged down on the starboard side, and get that chainplate out and to the metal shop for a quote. I'll scope out the surrounding sponginess, but that may have to wait until warmer weather to tackle. Will let you know when I'm close to starting the surgery. I will have an experienced hand helping with the glassing in.
It is the middle of the three plates, I'm pretty sure. Ain't that the upper shroud?
if its in the middle of the three it should be the upper ..my upper is tied to bulkhead with a 3/4 plate on both sides making it 3 layers ( the hanging cabinet on the starboard side 3/4..1/2..3/4 its 2 and 1/4 thick in total )
Mine's a 1980 model. Is yours a bit later, maybe? I'll try to double-check it tomorrow and maybe get a picture that shows all three. It does seem like it's about in line with the compression post, but my memory's not all that great.
It's a good thing I have you to keep me straight! I stopped at the boat on the way home from work. It is indeed the forward, lower shroud that we're looking at.
Let me know what's wrong with this basic outline:
1. I take the spare halyard, swing it over to the starboard side, to a snap block attached to the toe rail very close to that shroud. I put some tension on it, but not a ton.
2. I unbolt and remove the chainplate and get a quote on replacements.
3. I cover and seal the opening, after checking the level of deck core damage for future reference.
4. I take my Dremel with a cut-off wheel and detach one side of the knee from the hull.
5. I somehow split the knee vertically, so we're back to two, 3/4" halves. (any tips on how I do this?)
6. I take the removed half and use it as a template for a new, 3/4" thick piece.
7. I put that piece against the remaining side that's still glassed in.
8. I'll stop here, so you can review the above. Plus I'm not sure what comes next? Tab the new piece to the hull? Drill the 'plate holes, using the old, still-attached side as a template, etc...?
John
on item # 1 since its a lower it is not really necessary you still have the upper and one lower at work but do it anyway just for safety sake never know when a blow might happen
#4 that will work...... if you have a multi tool it will be better but don't go buy one unless you find a deal in a pawn shop somewhere and make sure its Fien brand for around $65.00
#5 when you get the glass cut on the sides of the knee take a wide blade chisel and put it in the middle of the front of your knee and start banging away working up and down the joint and it will soon come apart
#6 is good
#7 glass only where you cut the old one loose and let it set you may want to put some wax paper in the joint to keep from bonding the new to the old also grind the places you are glassing back and wipe with acetone on a rag to remove the residuals of your work
stuff will drive crazy till you know for sure
I have a Bosch multitool. I used it to cut that access panel to put in the new galley faucet. That would certainly be more easily controlled (and work faster) than the Dremel! I just ordered a fresh batch of the half-round blades, which I find much easier to keep where you want it to cut than the straight blades, for some reason.
I've got the plywood coming from Chesapeake Light Craft. I've got some 10 oz. fiberglass coming from Jamestown, along with some shears and some spreaders. I've already got a gallon of West System on hand. I'll have to make sure I have enough hardener.
Anything else you can think of?
I've got the plywood coming from Chesapeake Light Craft. I've got some 10 oz. fiberglass coming from Jamestown, along with some shears and some spreaders. I've already got a gallon of West System on hand. I'll have to make sure I have enough hardener.
Anything else you can think of?
even better get a carbide blade from home depot.... look on the dremel rack display they are about 20 bucks but they are tough and will cut the glass like butter and last a lot longer too
S2 9.2A
Seattle, WA
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 83
S2 9.2A Starboard Chainplate Repair
The Starboard Chainplate leaked and rotted the support bulkhead inside the boat. This is the repair I made. I cut out all the bad wood, made a filler for the cut out, fabbed a new aft plate and a new large backing plate that went inside the cabinet. I don't have a problem with seeing fastener heads, and I think it makes a stronger installation if they aren't buried in the wood. The parts are bolted as you see and the backing plate also has screws inside the cabinet. All parts have fiberglass cloth and resin between the mating surfaces.
The repair is complete, I am still pondering whether to tab the new parts to the hull. I don't think it's necessary because the existing structure is already tabbed. Comments?
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Seattle, WA
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 83
S2 9.2A Starboard Chainplate Repair
The Starboard Chainplate leaked and rotted the support bulkhead inside the boat. This is the repair I made. I cut out all the bad wood, made a filler for the cut out, fabbed a new aft plate and a new large backing plate that went inside the cabinet. I don't have a problem with seeing fastener heads, and I think it makes a stronger installation if they aren't buried in the wood. The parts are bolted as you see and the backing plate also has screws inside the cabinet. All parts have fiberglass cloth and resin between the mating surfaces.
The repair is complete, I am still pondering whether to tab the new parts to the hull. I don't think it's necessary because the existing structure is already tabbed. Comments?
ShareThis
Attached Thumbnails