How is the mast secured on the deck bracket. There are 2 pins that slip into the deck bracket but how does the crome plated u bracket feature in the process of securing it? See picture attached. This a 1976 Oday 22.
Securing mast to bracket on deck
- Thread starter Chris Bogle
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Just guessing, as your setup is completely different from the one on my 1975 Oday 22.
I think the pins and the bolt are used to secure the mast to the step and that the U is an accessory for storing halyards etc.
A picture of the base the mast attaches to might help.
I think the pins and the bolt are used to secure the mast to the step and that the U is an accessory for storing halyards etc.
A picture of the base the mast attaches to might help.
Chris,
You have the same type of mast tabernacle that my friend Wayne has on his Seaward 22. When you go to raise your mast, that single pin that is running through the mast fits into the open tabernacle slots on the cabin and drops down to lock in. All your stays need to be connected to the chainplates first, with the exception of your forestay which is then connected after the mast is up.
That stainless steel U bracket or bale is used for connecting your boom vang. The bottom of the boom vang is connected to that and the top part of the boom vang is connected to a bail like that one, or an eye strap on the under side of your boom about 1/3 of the way out from the mast and goose neck fitting.
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Daydreamer I think you are correct. On further examination, the u bracket is unrelated to securing the mast to the "step". It appears the mast stays in place due to the tension of guy wires & the angle of the slots that the pins slide into. That brings me to another question. How taught should the guy wires be? It seems the bow & stern are just slightly loose whereas the port & starboard centre wires are fairly tight. Thanks for your help.
Thanks Trinkka, what confused me is that there is no boom vang with hardware I received from previous owner. I gather from response received from separate thread that I can sail without it. I will no doubt invest in one after I get my "sea legs"
Chris
Chris
He probably kept it Chris. They go for big bucks at "Worst Marine." There's one thing you could do to save some money and that's to check out some marine consignment shops in your area if they have them, and see if you can pick up two used double sheave fiddle blocks. One of the blocks needs to have a cam cleat on it or some kind of a provision to add one later on. Then, all you need is the non stretch braid line and make it up to the blocks. These blocks usually have the quick release shackles on each of them. You want to be able to connect the vang and disconnect it without messing around with rigging pins and cotter pins.
I'm going to try to install some kind of a bail on my mast tabernacle for my boom vang. When I get it installed I'll take a picture of it and post it for you.
Joe
From the O'DAY 22 Owners Manual:
Stepping the Mast:
CAUTION: BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST, BE SURE THAT THERE ARE NO OVERHEAD WIRES OR TREE BRANCHES. ALSO CHECK THAT THERE ARE NO OVERHEAD OBSTACLES BETWEEN RIGGING AREA AND LAUNCHING AREA.
We recommend that you have assistance in stepping the mast. The mast should have the slot facing aft when stepped, or down when horizontal. Open the turnbuckles at ends of stays to half-open position. Then attach the Backstay to the stern chainplate, with clevis pin and cotter ring and proceed to attach Sidestays, both uppers and lowers, to the side chainplates. The lower Sidestays that run up to the spreader bases are attached to the fore side chainplates, while the upper Sidestays running from the top of the mast are attached to the aft side chainplates. (See Fig. 4) Do not attach the Headstay to the bow fitting yet. A tabernacle is provided on the cabin top of the O’DAY 22 for ease in mast stepping. With the mast in a horizontal position and with sliding hatch closed, insert base of mast with pin in tabernacle (Aluminum cast tabernacle) Next push up and forward on the mast until the mast is in a vertical position; it helps if one person pushes the mast up while a second assists by standing on the foredeck and pulling in the forestay. Now with one person holding the mast vertical, the other can attach the forestay to the stem fitting near the bow (use forward hole) with a clevis pin and cotter ring. (See Fig. 3) After all stays are securely attached, take the slack out of the rigging and tighten. With the mast plumb (in a vertical position), the Headstay, Backstay, the two upper Sidestays, should he tightened 3-5 turns more than hand tight. The two lower Sidestays should be just taut, not hand tight.
CAUTION: It is very important that you do not tighten the stays too much, as this can cause damage to the hull and deck. Also, periodically you should inspect the chainplates for corrosion and the deck area around them for rotted core.
After the stays have been adjusted, take a pair of pliers (even better, use a wrench), tighten the lock nuts on the turnbuckles which will prevent the turnbuckles from unwinding. To be on the safe side, we strongly recommend that you wire and tape the turnbuckles so they will not unwind.
Normally, on a trailered boat, only the forestay needs to be unhooked to lower the mast; thus the other standing rigging can be left adjusted for the season. The forestay will need to be loosened each time to unstep the mast, and then retighten after stepping the mast.
Stepping the Mast:
CAUTION: BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST, BE SURE THAT THERE ARE NO OVERHEAD WIRES OR TREE BRANCHES. ALSO CHECK THAT THERE ARE NO OVERHEAD OBSTACLES BETWEEN RIGGING AREA AND LAUNCHING AREA.
We recommend that you have assistance in stepping the mast. The mast should have the slot facing aft when stepped, or down when horizontal. Open the turnbuckles at ends of stays to half-open position. Then attach the Backstay to the stern chainplate, with clevis pin and cotter ring and proceed to attach Sidestays, both uppers and lowers, to the side chainplates. The lower Sidestays that run up to the spreader bases are attached to the fore side chainplates, while the upper Sidestays running from the top of the mast are attached to the aft side chainplates. (See Fig. 4) Do not attach the Headstay to the bow fitting yet. A tabernacle is provided on the cabin top of the O’DAY 22 for ease in mast stepping. With the mast in a horizontal position and with sliding hatch closed, insert base of mast with pin in tabernacle (Aluminum cast tabernacle) Next push up and forward on the mast until the mast is in a vertical position; it helps if one person pushes the mast up while a second assists by standing on the foredeck and pulling in the forestay. Now with one person holding the mast vertical, the other can attach the forestay to the stem fitting near the bow (use forward hole) with a clevis pin and cotter ring. (See Fig. 3) After all stays are securely attached, take the slack out of the rigging and tighten. With the mast plumb (in a vertical position), the Headstay, Backstay, the two upper Sidestays, should he tightened 3-5 turns more than hand tight. The two lower Sidestays should be just taut, not hand tight.
CAUTION: It is very important that you do not tighten the stays too much, as this can cause damage to the hull and deck. Also, periodically you should inspect the chainplates for corrosion and the deck area around them for rotted core.
After the stays have been adjusted, take a pair of pliers (even better, use a wrench), tighten the lock nuts on the turnbuckles which will prevent the turnbuckles from unwinding. To be on the safe side, we strongly recommend that you wire and tape the turnbuckles so they will not unwind.
Normally, on a trailered boat, only the forestay needs to be unhooked to lower the mast; thus the other standing rigging can be left adjusted for the season. The forestay will need to be loosened each time to unstep the mast, and then retighten after stepping the mast.
Chris,
Before you step the mast on your boat, make sure that the boat is level from side to side. If you step it on the trailer or on the water, make sure the wind is coming from aft.
Years ago when I first started stepping the mast on my O'Day 222, the first thing I did was build some kind of a mast supporting device or mast crutch which I mounted on my stern rail. Years later I added a small roller in the crutch to enable me to roll the mast forward or aft.
Then I needed something to keep the mast from falling backward after I got it up, so I bought about 65' of 3/8" nylon three strand line and spliced an eye on one end. I ran this line through a single sheave block and attached it to the rear hole in my bow stem chain plate.
Then I would connect my Jib Halyard shackle to the line's eye splice and haul the shackle to the top and cleat off the Jib Halyard at the bottom of the mast.
With the stays all connected except the fore stay which I secured to the mast with a bungee, I would stand on the closed hatch cover with the line in my hand, and lift the mast by hand. As the mast began it's ascent I would put my shoulder into it and push it the rest of the way while pulling on the line. The mast needs to be about 3/4 of the way up for the line to take effect, but once the mast is up I would pull on the line tight and take it around the mast above the gooseneck fitting on the mast so that the rope doesn't slide down, and I would cleat it off on the Starboard bow cleat.
Now the mast was secure and I had both hands free to untie the bungee holding the forestay and connect it to the foreward most hole in the bow stem chainplate. After the fore stay is connected the rope can be let off.
It's very important that you take it slow when raising the mast and keep a close eye on your stays to make sure that they don't get snagged on anything. Make sure there are no twists in the stays or the turnbuckles.
Remember that while the mast is on it's way up or down, it can still go over sideways. The stays are always loose until the mast is all the way up.
If the boat is leaning to one side the mast will lean to that low side and go over if you're not careful.
A strong wind coming toward the beam of the boat can also blow the mast over the side. It has happened to one of my friends and this is why I bring it up.
You may want to build a Gin Pole and use it for mast raising/lowering.
http://slowflight.net/upgrades/tips-GinPole.html
Be aware not only of overhead power lines and other wires, but branches extending out from trees in the ramp parking lot.
The more you do mast raising/lowering, the better you'll be at it. Every year I raise my mast with the boat sitting on the trailer next to the house and I leave the mast up until it's time to take it down and trailer the boat to the club.
The outboard gets mounted and I run it in a barrel of water to make sure it's going to run perfect after I splash the boat at the club ramp.
I hope that I was able to be of some help here.
Good luck with the boat Chris.
Joe
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Chris, it definitely helps to have an extra person when stepping the mast.
I built an extendable crutch with a roller on it for the stern.
When extended it gives me that first two feet.
With my wife on the forestay during raising and lowering I want to do it as briskly as possible to reduce the amount of time the mast could go off center.
I use the basic settings for standing rigging (guy wires) from the owners manual that Sunbird posted. Copies are available at a site called, I Heart Odays.
My boat did not come with a vang either. I wound up buying from Garhauer. They have good products at fair prices. Not as fancy as some name brands.
I bought a new vang from them at the cost of a used name brand on Ebay.
Check out you tube for videos of mast stepping. I saw one where the owner made an A-frame that slid in the mast track and braced against the grab rails. It prevented side to side movement of the mast during raising & lowering. Might have to build one.
Have Fun
I built an extendable crutch with a roller on it for the stern.
When extended it gives me that first two feet.
With my wife on the forestay during raising and lowering I want to do it as briskly as possible to reduce the amount of time the mast could go off center.
I use the basic settings for standing rigging (guy wires) from the owners manual that Sunbird posted. Copies are available at a site called, I Heart Odays.
My boat did not come with a vang either. I wound up buying from Garhauer. They have good products at fair prices. Not as fancy as some name brands.
I bought a new vang from them at the cost of a used name brand on Ebay.
Check out you tube for videos of mast stepping. I saw one where the owner made an A-frame that slid in the mast track and braced against the grab rails. It prevented side to side movement of the mast during raising & lowering. Might have to build one.
Have Fun
I think it's a great idea to have someone help in getting the mast up but as I mentioned, you need to do it slow and watch out for twists and snags.
Consider this: If you raise the mast too fast and one of those side stays gets caught on something, the chances are greater that the mast will go over sideways and bend the tabernacle on the cabin. If you take it slow and a stay gets caught, you will know in advance and be able to control it easier, stop it, and let it back down so that you can clear the snag.
If you have any concerns about losing your mast over the side, you can always make up some pivot bridles, temporary stays, and come up with a suitable way to attach them to the mast. This arrangement works great with a Gin Pole, but it takes time to set up which isn't too bad if you only do it a couple of times a year as I do. If you have a roller furler like a Harken or CDI, this is the way to go if you want to do it by yourself.
If you're going to trailer and do a lot of mast raising every weekend like I did years back, you really don't need this equipment.
An A frame is great but I need something that I can stow on board. Years ago I went on an overnighter out on the bay with my dog. When I reached the mouth of my river I radioed the drawbridge for an open and found out that the old decrepid drawbridge had broken down earlier in the day with traffic backed up for three hours. They were finally able to lower the leaves but couldn't raise them back up until it was fixed,--- the next day!
I anchored in a nearby cove and took my mast down. When I got on the other side of the bridge I raised the mast back up and sailed the two miles back to the club.
My Gin Pole comes apart in two equal pieces and the rest of the raising equipment is relatively small and compact enough to keep stored in my quarter birth compartment.
Consider this: If you raise the mast too fast and one of those side stays gets caught on something, the chances are greater that the mast will go over sideways and bend the tabernacle on the cabin. If you take it slow and a stay gets caught, you will know in advance and be able to control it easier, stop it, and let it back down so that you can clear the snag.
If you have any concerns about losing your mast over the side, you can always make up some pivot bridles, temporary stays, and come up with a suitable way to attach them to the mast. This arrangement works great with a Gin Pole, but it takes time to set up which isn't too bad if you only do it a couple of times a year as I do. If you have a roller furler like a Harken or CDI, this is the way to go if you want to do it by yourself.
If you're going to trailer and do a lot of mast raising every weekend like I did years back, you really don't need this equipment.
An A frame is great but I need something that I can stow on board. Years ago I went on an overnighter out on the bay with my dog. When I reached the mouth of my river I radioed the drawbridge for an open and found out that the old decrepid drawbridge had broken down earlier in the day with traffic backed up for three hours. They were finally able to lower the leaves but couldn't raise them back up until it was fixed,--- the next day!
I anchored in a nearby cove and took my mast down. When I got on the other side of the bridge I raised the mast back up and sailed the two miles back to the club. My Gin Pole comes apart in two equal pieces and the rest of the raising equipment is relatively small and compact enough to keep stored in my quarter birth compartment.
Got my mast up with help of neighbor & you guys. Thanks everyone. You provided some useful info.
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Beautiful! That wasn't that hard was it? I notice that you have a stern rail on your boat which can come in handy for supporting a detachable mast crutch. All you need to do is design something to fit that rail which can support your mast when you want to raise or lower it. You could put a small roller in the crutch so that you can roll the mast forward or aft.
I had to be able to change the position of the roller in my mast crutch because sometimes a stay would get caught in while I was roller the mast aft and I'd have to walk aft to clear the snag. I cured that problem by being able to move the roller up higher. At any rate, having a built in roller for the crutch is better than having to lift the mast and walk it back and forth each time I raise/lower the mast and there's less chance of slipping and falling off the deck with the mast in your hands.
So all you need is the mast crutch and the Gin Pole and your good to go.
Check out my "Owner's Photo Album" on this site for more info.
Joe
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